Bluemonkey presents....

On second viewing I spy numbers that look rather official. Another lesson here; Do not trust what you think you remember, check, check and check again. Apologies for misleading. I'll have to use the tarp elsewhere. It is difficult to see if there are any further markings on the tarp in the picture other than the numbers at the front, either way though need to rethink. Reference source; GWR Goods Train Working From Control Offices to Exceptional Loads Vol 2 Tony Atkins.

Hi @Mikkel I certainly do, the actual wagon and the tarp. I will post a picture and reference asap. Thank you for the suggestion of black thread. I need to take a trip to Farthing to see how it is done Sir. I am wary of the fine 'hairs' on the thread I have though. Anyway I think a first class ticket to farthing is called for.

I believe the Lime wash practice was outlawed during 1923 so certainly by 1930s the wash would have been washed away, overpainted or removed completely.

Not only cattle were transported in the Mex wagons This represents an example of one used for horses. The tarps were used to blank out the open sides of the wagons as the horses were easily spooked. I would like to think this makes a decent representation. It currently sits nicely over the roof and would genuinely stay put without glue or ties. I will give it a few days to make sure I am completely happy with it and then rope ties will be added. Any suggestions for the ropes? I thought fine thread painted brown/grey? No chains were involved or at least the picture I have used as a reference for the wagon and tarp. Oh and mat varnish to lose the shine from the ink washes,

Mail order

An excellent read once again. Fantastic that the quality of modelling and articles have kept going through the last 18 months or so. Thank you. Was also very interested to read that David Geen kits could be available once more and that an email could be sent requesting a list, of which I duly have done although I may have misunderstood as I have not yet received a reply either positive or negative. Apologies if I have got over excited.

Excellent job on the grass and that pool is very convincing, looking forward to your willow. The sheep have come out well they do look like an excellent product as well.

This is very true and I remembered our discussion a while ago when attempting that drilling. Weird Slaters have a couple of blanks in every pack. Either way they are decent couplings requiring little enlarging of the hole in the buffer beam which also is a major plus. I had thought of using Smiths for the 20T wagon due to size but the allowance required to fit the hook meant cutting into the sub structure behind the beam or risk splitting the bottom of the buffer beam.

Thank you and totally agree I was hopeful that it could be pulled off without the need for brass plates, some serious magnifying glass and one handed cutting involved but very happy with the resulting wagon. Shhhh the reds are a secret, lol. Both are fictitious unfortunately; one but based on a picture of Milford Haven and the other will completely made up but I am heavily dependent on the transfers arriving to be able to finish that project as with the final W1 wagon. Have a few brass W8/10/12 to have a go at some time in the future but those will be for another time I think.

Additionally had to cut about some other transfers to get one of the outstanding cattle wagons ready for like weathering. This is 68409 and from two source pictures Russel wagons appendix and Atkins, Beard and Tourret shown in transitional livery from early plates to painted livery. Shown with 24" lettering, number still on solebar and with G.W.R, numbering, 'large' and ton/tare as plates on the ends. Hope this picture make more sense than my description; Something a little different.

Been slow modelling recently for a few reasons but recently purchased a Colin Ashby 20T mineral kit to suit those transfers purchased in error many moons ago. makes a lovely kit, rivet details stands out very well. Had to add some long door slams/springs and a little filler to lengthen the floor. Used the Slaters finer couplings and managed to drill .55 holes in the plain ended couplings, shouldering wire through as a stop. Tried that again on another coupling hook tonight and it would not happen so went back to making a cut but not as nice presentation so not pictured, lol.

Reading you blogs is proving to be expensive in the book department as well.

Outstanding Mikkel, thank you for your write up on the extra detailing to these kits. I have enjoyed building a number of these as you know and if you do not mind would like to use some of your knowledge to detail some more of these kits. I really like your subtle weathering and the use of pigments. How do you fix the pigments please?

Nice work on the grass, I think you have achieved the open grassy effect.

Dare I say it Rich.... You are steaming on with your stock builds.

I believe it is law everywhere to have at least one a week and the closer to Cornwall the more you must consume. Sarah really does not want to be in breach of such a long standing law. I also know where the best ever pasties are located and baked on a daily basis but thems the secrets we must keep my precious.

Do you get the 'privacy' blue tab in the bottom left of your screen. If so click it and you can stop the ads, worked for me as I was getting whole page ads every time I selected a notification, if not, sorry that's about the limit of my tech skills.

News on the planned layout; It has been a long time since the last update hence the link here as this is where I have been most active, additionally it is a lengthy piece so rather than cut and paste a large amount of text best have it in one place only.

@Nick Gough Thank you. I have a bungalow and due to the hoped loft conversion and the neighbours very poorly locate flu the positioning of our flu was restricted immensely so unfortunately left us just two options; The loft or badly standing out in the kitchen with a chimney through the middle of the roof (old boiler style). This is the best fit that we could get but not for the proposed layout. I am working on the idea of flipping the layout around so when the chimney is removed this becomes the location for the wider board and station area. The left hand side as looking at the forecourt of the station is a double main line with a central siding giving me less line to have cut throughs and also a little more flexibility with the curves (hopefully). I need to do some measurements and sit and stare at the whole thing for a few hours to work out if this is plausible. If it is that will be great although probably adding a couple more years on to the restart time.

No problem better to have then right than with tie bars, lol. Besides I had already replaced the plastic with a length of brass so they can be reused on other wagons once I have cleared my bench although I may now have no future layout. How are those sheep, I am very pleased with the cattle I received although the resin is very delicate on the legs so be careful there.

Very nice

Well it is sad day when you gas heating boiler dies. 25+ years of near outstanding service but needs to be replaced. The more modern and sleeker version is completely different in fixings and size, as well as flu regulations meaning the original location is now inappropriate and impossible to use so a new locations had to be determined. The only via location is that in the loft and the adjoining wall. This meant the removal of some of the baseboard structure that I had previous (over a year ago!) replaced. As the second start to my dream layout had also stalled it was not as drastic as it may have been to remove. With the new boiler and pipework installed the engineer asked "What are you going to do about your railway?" I innocently and naively said "Well I will have to rebuild the end losing some of the sweeping curve." There was a short silence and then the conversation returned to the functionality of the boiler etc. Funny how things pop into your head from nowhere! The penny dropped, like a £2 coin! Boiler is sited on the connecting curve side of what would be the up Swindon line. This had led to the loco shed to be based on Didcot. Full boiler access is required for servicing and maintenance meaning that I can not just rebuild with a shortened run and tighter curves the whole section (approx 4ft x 2ft) will need to be removable. As you can appreciate the shed area and entrance has numerous lines and points and all on a curve including the coaling stage and incline this will also include the curved main lines. Ahh now I understand the engineer's question fully, not only am I losing the physical 2ft (ish) from the installation but either another 2-3ft to allow for access or to make the entire section removable or hinged requiring a huge amount of sectional cuts through main running lines and points (risky for me and something I wanted to avoid) being a permanent layout). In short; Good news discussions had be taking place for the loft area to be converted to a proper room and one for my railway! Bad news; boiler died and a replacement required. Great news the new boiler is more efficient, quieter etc etc and all the floor pipework is now relocated away from feet. Bad news they are expensive. Good news the boiler is removed from the kitchen allow more space and relocated in the loft space. Bad news need to redecorate the kitchen. Great news not too much modelling or layout construction damage has taken place to site the new boiler and pipework. Bad news I now do not have enough space for my layout as too much has been lost from the end of the main boards to allow the station to be modelled. I had already made considerable adjustment to reduce to the length required for the station and yards and to allow the sensible curved ends for a roundy roundy. Good news considerable savings made as the loft now does not need a conversion and can remain a loft. Bad news no layout. I need to have a long think about what is now possible. Whilst I appreciate I still have and I am very lucky to have a considerable space to make a layout of which I am very grateful, this is not my dream nor plans. This was my single and only layout focus. Should I model another layout/location this will only be and always be second best. All my modelling and stock collection has been for this one single goal. My options now require serious considerations.

Welcome back Rob, great stuff. The water looks perfect especially in the shallows.

Thank you @Mikkel very much appreciate your thoughts. I have that series of books so will have to dig them out and ruffle through, thanks.

With the arrival of some of the final transfers and the wagons loaded with beasts I pushed to get the few livery complete ones 'weathered'. After using the sponge and brush that accompanies the Tamiya weather powder sets I fell up on a silicon brush set from. In the hope these would prove more robust and somewhat allow more precision when adding the powders a set was purchased, I could not find them sold individually. This is what was used to add the filth; The two main colours used were mud and rust with a little sand at times. Having already used the powders for the first five heavily lime washed wagons I used the same methods for the wagons with less lime wash and none at all. My idea for the lime wash is I have a number that can either be used for earlier period trains or slightly later having not received the clean. Then I have some with less lime wash being those wagons during the transition of lime use and the discontinuing of the practice, then the rest without the wash but still with 'in use' filth. Incorporating wagons during the 1920's. Back to the rubber brushes. The brush handles themselves feel long and wider than standard paint brushes although no overly. The silicon end feels secure in metal holder and comes in various shapes producing an interesting array of angles that can be used to the direct the powders. These may also be used to add very fine paint detailing marks and possible with practice/skill make graduated ink washes in a similar way to a chisel tip marker pen. As you can see from the picture the powers do seem to stain the silicon even after a good water wash and wipe. I tried each brush, they all felt well balanced and easy to grip. The silicon picks up the powders very nicely without the need to turn upside down and where you place the brush is where the pigments are deposited without the drop or spread when using a traditional brush. The pigment spread when making the stroke movement is something to get used to. It is nothing like a liquid, which sounds obvious but when using a brush mentally you expect a liquid, or at least I did (constantly!). A liquid gradually runs out of colour during the stroke whereas the rubber places the pigment and you have to spread it which works well on flat or slightly detailed surfaces and 'normal' brushing actions work but on more raised areas i.e. rivets, dabbing and pushing the pigment works better but means you need to reload more often. Cleaning, I used water and a cloth to wipe in order to use straight away without adding water to the pigments or spreading them on the models with water. As previously noted you can see staining of the silicon but this did not seem to transfer even when used in the light sand colour after using rust. Overall impression is a decent set of brushes well made, seemingly hard wearing although time will tell, nicely balanced in the hand and transfer of pigment good and easy to control. With more practice I think these can be a useful addition to the brush set although it is a shame they do not seem to be available individually but at £8 for a set of 5 brushes who can argue as one decent 'hair' brush can set you back nearly that. You can see for yourself the results although this does also take into account my lack of skill in using and weathering. I also give you the three degrees of lime wash application as described earlier catering for the 1920's period throughout; From left to right I have tried to represent varying stages of use; (1) heavy lime wash with rust, muck and general duty dirt, (2) lime wash depleting as the wagons were cleaned and not reapplied with lime, muck and rusty iron work and (3) no lime wash rusty irons and a little duty dirt and muck. I will be weathering the roofs later with all my wagons once I have a large number and more practiced with different effects. Just need couplings and we are there for these next to complete the rest. Apologies for the picture, the colours are a little more clear to the naked eye and do give a better overall appearance. Any comments, thoughts or experiences more than welcome. Has anyone else used these brushes?