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About ianmaccormac

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    P4, S7
    Etching, 3D Resin oprinting

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  1. Just sold the photon for 65 gbp less than a mars pro. It does make a difference but Saturn from Elegoo in late November and this news from Anycubic and others for same size using 4k mono screen are going to be worth getting for the size. 7mm! Cheers Ian
  2. Red is a very translucent pigment so will usually need more than one coat! Looking good. Cheers
  3. The hobby is important! Thankfully we do have something that is both absorbing of time and of interest too! I've just bought a Mars Pro and the difference is clear, a better UV source gives better prints. Cheers Ian
  4. Blooming Heck! What a brilliant production! Well done all. Lots there to have a wander through! And such variety, fantastic! Cheers Ian
  5. Have you increased the gearing? or is this a belt drive also? Keep it going!!!!!!!
  6. Can't you mask off with bluetac or something else? Looks interesting! Cheers Ian
  7. https://ianmaccormacmodels.blogspot.com/2018/ Hi Thanks @BlueLightning for the ad. The above link takes you to my blog where in 2018 I put pictures and prices of all the signal parts. Use the email mentioned on the EBModels website to get in touch. http://www.mjwsjw.co.uk/ Cheers Ian
  8. Keep at it! You are getting some brilliant results! And this is a great blog, keep that going too! Cheers
  9. that might well be the shape of the gears. Did you just trace something or did you use a formula derived curve? Getting there though aren't you!! Cheers Ian
  10. oh, and inside as opposed to outside cylinders! So not very close at all really!
  11. Lovely modelling! The banking engine looks very similar to the Bury rebuilds of 1850/1. A slightly different firebox, that seems the most difference. Anyway, keep producing these glorious early builds, absolutely delightful! Cheers Ian
  12. Yes that is an improvement but with higher gearing that would be a lot better. Go for it, you are going in the right direction and with a higher ratio, using the compound gears, you should be able to make it very controllable.
  13. Well a day of doing a whole load of bits but ending up with not a lot of visual difference! I realised with the Slater's axle on a taper fitting, I would need to make the driver removeable, in hornblocks. The front and trailing have allen key assembly and that is easy to get them out of the chassis, but the driver, not. I started making up a set of the lovely hornblocks from Steph Dale, the 47961 set. Lovely, all fine until I realised I needed too much height to fit them and there wasn't any metal left in the chassis to do that which was when I also realised I had drawn the chassis1mm down from its top but just in the area between the front and driving wheels! I don't know how or why but will correct this if I get this to production. I had drawn compensation beams either side of the motor, driven and trailing wheel. That wasn't working either. I had also made provision for springing using guitar spring steel in a bearing holder - Bill Bedford system in 4mm - and that would work for the driver so that is what I now have. I also started to trial fit the inside motion parts and have had to shorten them as they were getting in the way of the gearwheel. But all sorted now, and needs final fixing tomorrow. The photo is showing what I am trying to get and also the lower firebox and ashpan is there now. Anyway, more tomorrow. Oh yes, there are also dummy springs behind the driving wheel now but I'm not sure these are even visible here! Piping from clack to pump and from pump to tender tomorrow. Cheers Ian
  14. Hi Boxbrownie, I remember seeing a stereolithography machine on Tomorrow's World TV about the same time as CDRoms started. Fascinated then. Saw some smaller scale bits about 30 years ago in use at BAe I think it was, and am amazed that I can now produce something similar on my desk. I started this because I couldn't get my lathe to produce the finesse of parts in brass etc that I had in my mind but found when I started drawing in 3D last March that I could actually produce something very close to that using a £200 resin printer! I have continued since and am now very happy to be able to produce the parts I always wanted to. I am 63, have used computers since about 1980 when I drew a simple ship by joining co-ordinates with lines, before mice! I am a tryer out of things so have played about with an awful lot of bits and bobs over the last 40 years of modelling but nothing has changed my modelling as much as the 3D CAD and the 3D printing. This is the second loco I have developed, the first being a Slaughter Goods, see assembly diagram, which several people are building at the moment. I will be doing more with the techniques as the months and years progress, I just find there are not enough hours in the day sometimes to do all I want to! https://warwick.ac.uk/fac/sci/wmg/about/outreach/resources/fusion_tutorials are where I started with the Fusion360 software which is free for hobbyists. Why not give it a go? Just by way of explanation, in the diagram, the grey parts are 3D printed, red or white are etched and yellow is wire, etc. I should add that the RMWeb tutorials on how to draw domes/chimneys etc in Fusion360 by Quarryscapes helped enormously too,
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