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Everything posted by Spitfire2865

  1. Youd be surprised how consistent some things can be. If you think about it, a standardized design built with similar materials with similar techniques will develop a bell curve distribution for their weights. It couldve been that they routinely fell within a margin of error to round to the nearest ton rather than a quarter. We could assume they round to the nearest quarter as to give themselves a more exact average over a railway quantity of bulk material. Thus a wagon could weigh anywhere from 11186lbs-11214lbs. Id say a pretty fair range in a manufactured good using fairly similar wood of similar quality and similar drying conditions. Or as you said, its just not worth writing that extra number as someone probably ran the numbers to see if the savings in paint offset the potential loss in a quarter weight over the course of the 7 year lifespan of the livery!
  2. It is the combined hardbacked version. Its a deep brown cover under the jacket. Published 1986. Unfortunately when I purchased it, it wasnt very clear which version it was. The trouble of buying online from across an ocean I suppose.
  3. I have a copy of that book, of what I believe to be the later combined printing, and there is hardly anything Pre 1930s which is what I had bought the book for originally when I was still building 4mm. So clearly Im missing something.
  4. Ok clearly Im not in the know. Where is one to find details of GWR wagons in the Pre 20th century period? The book Ive got has barely a mention of anything prewar. Certainly nothing as useful as diagram numbers or drawings.
  5. Well once the wagon is empty, theres not much that can fall on you being underneath it. The doors could "easily" be opened from the side.
  6. Have you checked the motors run disconnected from their gearboxes? Lubrication has not seized? Pickups making proper connection to the wheels? Wheels clean?
  7. Youre asking a foreign reseller to fix your items? Or how to fix your items? I can assure you, whatever customer service representative you spoke to has NO idea how model trains work and would NEVER offer advice on repairing it yourself. Thats something the manufacturer deals with. The Trainz CS is to deal with business and basic product questions. Now if you wanted a warranty, then their policy is fairly clear. 30 days since purchase, or its not their fault. Youve had the product for a year, and presumably used it for that year. Whos to say you didnt do something to make it stop working? After a year, thats not the fault of the reseller. They didnt sell faulty goods as it worked after you received it and continued to work through the warranty period. Youre asking some random CS rep information that they dont know, NO WONDER they couldnt help you. Frankly your complaint is ridiculous.
  8. Well there WERE Live steam floor toys made and sold back in the day, usually spiraling in a circle while you hope it doesnt catch on the curtains. So live steam indoors isnt unheard of, nor particularly dangerous if youre careful about it. As for firing it, is there room under the boiler for a solid fuel burner to slide in?
  9. Its how Amtrak has run all its services in the US. You book your specific train and route and you are guaranteed* a seat. (*train may be oversold, Amtrak® does not guarantee passengers a seat for the duration of their trip.)
  10. For new builds, its definitely due to the density of the wood, paint, and assorted hardware. Remember, as "standard" as many wagons were, there was always variation. Rather easy to forget such variation can naturally occur in our world of computerized mass production. Even in my line of work, our products often vary in weight by a pound or two, and they only weigh sub 100lb! Once you scale that up to a few tons, its not hard to see the range that's possible.
  11. I solely use enamels for painting have NEVER had issues like frosting. I use Tamiya, Testors, and Rustoleum (IIRC) brand matt and gloss aerosols to great results. Definitely do light coats though. I once laid a very heavy coat of matt onto some coupling rods and had to repaint them due to a light frosting.
  12. Take the rods off, does it free roll freely and straight without wobble? If it curves to one side much, thats a sure sign the wheelbase doesnt match the rods.
  13. I think I may have the record for amount of time spent in Penn on this forum, and the description of "busiest" is quite fitting.
  14. Probably why they built dedicated manure wagons. Mustve not been too fun unloading them as they had no doors!.
  15. Christ...my companys overzealous web filtering system is blocking RMwebs "new content" stream as gambling.  And Im not allowed to petition it...

    1. gordon s

      gordon s

      May be related to another post I have just seen and reported.....

  16. What kind of figure? Ive glued figures in with plain PVA glue before. If you dont knock it, itll stay in place fairly ok but removal is clean and doesnt leave marks. Or if youre not afraid of drilling into the footplate, you could mount figures on pegs and then theyll be pretty sturdy.
  17. Ideally before I begin this little micro layout (if it ever even happens) Ill rebuild the points to have more reliable switch rails. That last point though is a concern for all small scale models and why I will never understand why some people on this forum will always insist that you should use as few power feeds as possible whenever the question of wiring comes up.
  18. Ive yet to actually USE the Shinohara points on a layout and I havent any Minitrains stock. What Im planning is all scratchbuilt so stock is irrelevant. However Modern US wheels went through the points perfectly fine when I was just testing them. And one of those nice micro Japanese mechanisms went through perfectly as well under power once I corrected the BTB on one of the axles. I think the Shinohara point is a little off on the curve around the frog, but not enough to foul properly adjusted wheelsets. But I will have to modify the switch rails on the points to give a little more definite contact between switch and frog. Not pleased by the "fishplate barely holding the two rails in alignment" method they used.
  19. I think the trading standards bit. Regardless, I dont think the "liberating" bit would go well for any party involved. Especially if there is no bits to "liberate".
  20. Just messing about with Google Maps, I found something amusing. An almost perfect inglenook. https://www.google.com/maps/@42.6653051,-73.739102,143a,35y,270h,39.53t/data=!3m1!1e3
  21. May be wrong, but I think I remember similar happenings 3 Coopercraft threads ago, or there about. Didnt exactly go well to my memory.
  22. Looking at that video, it looks more like the wheel BTB doesnt match the points, If your check rails and BTB are properly proportioned, you should never be jumping the frog. If its the check rails at fault, a sliver of plasticcard or paper glued to them to beef them up may help. A bonus for minitrains points is their small radius at only 5". Shinohara HO2-1/2 points were 6" radius at the smallest, but finding them now that Shinohara have closed down will be tricky. Ive got a few stashed for a future micro layout. Peco points are at a minimum 9" radius (also dont look very narrow gauge-y)
  23. Well thats a shame. NWSL is a well respected name. Hopefully someone wants to buy it.
  24. For renumbering something at home, its much easier to find transfers or decals and apply those yourself. Tampo printing isnt practical for single home use. I am unaware of any single modeller who uses tampo printing for models.
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