Mick Bonwick

By the way, there are three others. They're called Dave, Pete and Mick. All four of them were introduced by my method of sticking the track down. Careful positioning, placing a flat piece of plywood over the top and then weighting that down with lumps of old lead pipe. There is a basic flaw in that process, and that is that once the weights are all in place there's no way of telling that you have moved something slightly. You only discover that the following day, once everything has set solid. You would have thought, wouldn't you, that if it happened once then steps could be taken not to do it again? The most complex junction on the board was laid using this method, and was left for two days to dry, because I had other things to be doing. When I removed the weights I found that one half of the crossover was 3.5mm away from the other half. Fortunately there were insulating rail joiners between the two, so I was able to position those half-way across the gap. What I now have is a rail join that really accentuates the clickety-clack of wheels crossing it. I've just been out to the workshop to record all of these kinks for posterity, but won't be showing them on here because they're all blurred. I couldn't be bothered to open the blinds so it was too dark and my hand not steady enough while the shutter was open. You'll just have to wait until tomorrow to see them. Tired of waiting for you, all day and all of the night. You really got me.

You're right, one could. But he'd be alone.

It's OK, Al, I've read the post again and realise that there is no hint of levity therein. That's not what I had in mind when I wrote it, so I've amended it a bit. My turn to alopogise.

It's my favourite one and I've called it Ray. Now you've pointed it out everybody will know it's there. I'll make sure it never appears in any more photographs.

Some of this you might not want to read. The whole process starts with the modification of the points to remove dependency on contact between point blades and stock rail. It will then not matter whether paint gets in the way of that contact because electrical continuity is achieved by wires soldered underneath. All other painting is completed before the ballast is laid, loose, and tamped/teased/cajoled into place. This takes a long time! Doing it this way means that you can keep individual pieces of ballast well away from the parts that are, ultimately, supposed to be able to move. Once the ballast positioning is complete it is dampened with IPA from a misting bottle and, before that evaporates, thinned IPA is applied from a disposable pipette. I restrict this process to a 6" stretch at a time because that works for me. More about all this can be found on pages 27, 32, 33, 34, 35, 41, 42, 45, 46 etc. Just because it appears in pictures doesn't mean that's the first time it's been tried!

I have used one of these, too, but found it difficult to obtain more paint of the right content and consistency. The paint that is produced for the tool seems to contain latex in some form or other that makes it stick to the rail side while allowing it to run freely down the tube. Once my supply of paint ran out I found it hard to replicate these properties with other paints. What paint do others use with it?

Oh, no it's not!

It's Peco, actually.

Thanks, Jay. I tried very hard to follow the real thing, but failed through 6" worth of insufficient space. There should have been space to put the engine shed and signal box on the left hand side at the top of the picture. I should have created the track plan BEFORE building the baseboards. Nonetheless, a fair representation has resulted, mainly through the use of curved points where possible, in order to prevent reverse curves.

Is that a modern expression?

I'm hoping that, by the time I start that seriously, there will be a full-blown quarry siding capable of holding many shunted wagons. Doesn't mean you're wrong, though.

Most of the smell had gone by this morning, so with all windows wide open I proceeded with the removal of paint from the rail tops. I deliberately left the paint in place on the rails that turn off the board into the quarry siding, just in case the point ends up thrown in that direction. I suppose I could disconnect the track feeds and disable the point motor as well . . . . . .

'They' don't seem to need any encouragement, do they?

And to think that this all started as a serious modelling topic.

I'm sure it'll come to the front of the queue eventually. You know it's there for you!

'Thumbs up' for the trackwork. 'Heart' for the PTSD. 'Stupid grin' for the lack of clarity.

Kevin? KEVIN? Are you still with us, Kevin?

I'll have you know that I most certainly do comment. Here's the proof!

Page 33.

When I was somewhat younger than today (early 1960s) I bought new Dinky Toys and Corgi Toys models as they were introduced. I paid my customary visit to Bakers toy shop in Gillingham and asked if I could see the new Ghia. The lady serving me said, "You're in the wrong shop, dear, you need to go into the one next door." The shop next door was a fashion shop.

Small hand tools. And that doesn't mean tools for small hands! Takes much longer and gives you the opportunity for much more satisfying destruction. Gets rid of more excess energy, too. That means you get more thirsty and have to drink more to satisfy that thirst. See where this is going?

There's always something, isn't there?

No sense of adventure!

You'll be ballasting before you know it!

Proceeding apace! Remaining rail sides all now painted on the northern half of Easton, so I decided to mask off and splatter track dirt all over the track on the southern half. Fan on full blast, windows open and mask well and truly on. What that means, of course, is that I've now got more rail sides to paint.