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Guy Rixon

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  1. A warning: if you're receiving a package via UPS --- and if you buy from my Shapeways shop for UK delivery you will be, because that's who Shapeways use --- be very cautious about redirecting the delivery to a different address. I've been away from home for a while and I redirected a delivery to save time. If I'd stayed at home, it would have come on the 21st. If I'd let them deliver to the original address I would have got it on the 26th when I was briefly home. As it was, UPS told me on the 24th that the package would come to the alternate address on the 26th ... three days after
  2. I think a few LNWR 0-8-0T were converted from 0-8-0 tender in the 20th century; or were these 0-8-2T? Either way, they were not condensing engines. The LNWR's only condensing goods engines were the pair of special condensing tanks that worked at Liverpool.
  3. If you want an actual coat of paint (or varnish) then it needs to be visibly wet on the surface. If it looks dry then it's probably adhering in clumps. The latter is OK, sometimes, for weathering effects but doesn't often give a good finish in a base coat. I find this to be true even with matt finishes. It's also true for acrylics, more so than for enamels, and especially important if you want a gloss or semi-gloss finish. Over-spraying while the coat is still wet is tricky. On the one hand, it may be better to strengthen the first coat rather than spraying another full coat after
  4. The SECR self-contained buffer used on the Maunsell/Lynes designs of wagons (not to be confused with the SER type used on older wagons converted from dumb buffers) was very much like the equivalent GWR buffer. The SECR one had a collar behind the head where the head was riveted to the ram, while the GWR did not; presumably the GWR used welded heads and rams. Nobody makes a model of the SECR self-contained buffer that I know of. As noted above, Lanarkshire Models do the GWR in whitemetal and I also sell prints for them. If anybody desperately wants the SECR version complete with riv
  5. Why should a basic model be less expensive to manufacture than a highly-accurate one? Most of the costs are the same. The extra consultancy to achieve a highly-accurate, historical model won't be that great an increment. You can save somewhat by not having so many hand-assembled parts, but the manufacturer has assembly costs even for a toy. You could reduce the quality control, but the quality on the full-price models is debatable, so maybe not so much to cut. The other possible change is to make the same models, year after year, in quantity, so that the tooling costs are spread ou
  6. When did condensing steam-circuits become typical for ships? I know that battleships were built with then in the last quarter of the 19th century, and I know that they could be a failure point. Canopus, a pre-dreadnought battleship, was stopped at the Falklands with condenser failure in 1914 and thus managed to locate the fleeing German fleet for the battlecruisers to finish off.
  7. There is a two-part article discussing the Air Ministry wagons in detail in Modeller's Backtrack (therefore ancient, but sometimes available secondhand). From memory, the Air Ministry wagons were class-A rated, based on the RCH 1927 specification, with some updates. IIRC, this means: largest tank size allowed on 9' wheelbase suitable for petrol, IIUC 14 tons load; angled end-stanchions rather than vertical; no bottom outlet (not allowed for class-A oils because fire risk if leakage); catwalks around the top hatch (first introduced about the time of the Air
  8. I suspect that the bi-directional road is acceptably safe if both ends are controlled from the same box; the locking should make it so. However, if there is a box at each end of the station, then it's harder to see how safety is assured. I could imagine a station with a line that is a running line in one direction only but which allows shunting movements in the other.
  9. What liquitex.com describe as soft-body sounds similar to what I used to buy as medium-body. Lower-viscosity paint in bottles (c.f. paste in tubes) is right. EDIT: wikipedia has a useful description of the different kinds of acrylic paint.
  10. That's the difference between the two ranges. Heavy-body (comes in tubes) is designed to keep brush marks, as it is a substitute for artists' oil-paints. Medium-body (comes in small bottles), which is more of a craft paint, doesn't keep the marks so easily. Most artists' acrylics commonly available are an oil-paint substitute and keep brush-marks. I only use them for naturally-streaky finishes, like wagon interiors or teak graining. EDIT: having read Liquitex's site, I now see that the soft-body (neé medium-body) is claimed to retain brush strokes. If it's the stuff I u
  11. A 37.5" wheel to true scale in 1:76 would be 2.2% oversize for a 42" wheel in H0. IIRC, Gibson wheels are actually 12mm and 14mm. The 12mm one is then 2% under-scale for a 42" wheel in H0, which is fine. Uniquely, Gibson do a 12mm Mansell-pattern wheel which is perfect for older coaches in H0.
  12. If you can get them, Liquitex medium-body artists colours are good for brushing onto models, better than any other art material I've tried. They are not good for spraying. The full-body (heavy-body? Can't remember the technical term) paints from Liquitex are different and not so useful.
  13. Etched Pixels sell N-gauge kits for coaches with printed armatures. I don't know if a printed forming-jig would work; I doubt that it would be strong enough. A printed template might help.
  14. Usually, something that represents the outer faces of the louvres and darkness in between is fine. In etched kits, bars for the outer faces and black card to stop light showing between. Neatness is perhaps more important than accuracy. I once made actual, slatted louvres for some fruit vans and it didn't look any better than moulded grooves; I could have let in a solid panel with some engraving. The louvre faces in the 51L sample are not so neat. I'd be inclined to cut them out and to substitute a scribed panel.
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