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Guy Rixon

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  1. Hollowing out the axleboxes to allow the bearings to move inside: I do it with a 1.9 mm router bit in a mini-drill ("electric adze") , and the drill spins fairly slowly to reduce the risk of melting the plastic. You need room for about ±0.5 mm movement about the actual position at which the suspension settles when you make the wagon up the desired weight and pack out the axleguards to get the buffer height correct. Since it's tricky to estimate this position to tenths of a millimetre, it's best to hollow out for as much movement as possible. This is easy enough in plastic and no fun at all in
  2. It should be possible to couple the driving axles with a belt. I would guess that is feasible in 4mm scale and very easy in the larger scales. If the belt drive really is easy to set up, it might even help with models of rod-coupled locos. The rods could be made a much looser fit, as they would carry no load, and would not then be likely to cause binding.
  3. Try Worsley Works. They do most of the types for the Trio sets.
  4. Some new products are now in the shop. Brake assemblies for four-wheeled coaches and vans of the SER and SECR. Nice if you want a little more of the rigging than a typical model, or if you simply can't face the soldering of clasp brakes. Might do for other railways if you're flexible about the fine details. One print does two vehicles. Boiler fittings for the "small England" engines of the Ffestiniog Railway. Designed to suit David Eveleigh's kits for these engines, the print equips one engine with either early-pattern or late-pattern fittings. Various products, notably LNW
  5. The train of SECR 27' stock moves glacially towards completion. I've been working on the other 3rd-brake. This is newly built from an unstarted, fossil kit and involves significant upgrades to the kit from home printing: buffers, brake rigging, spring hangers, and droplights. The detail is over at the S4 Society forum. If the lining and lettering works out, then this one should be finished some time in the next month or so and I can then move on to refurbish the other, built coaches shown earlier in this thread using what I've learnt from the new build. Having stalled f
  6. Slightly earlier on LNWR fitted wagons. E.g. D95 vans seen with reversible blocks c1906.
  7. If I had that space, I would concentrate on two opportunities: long trains and models of structures that can't readily be split or compressed. To combine the two, in the scope of a one-man project, I'd pick a serious bridge and model it to near-scale, with not too much scenery in front of the bridge, so that viewers could stand close enough to see the trains. It could be a viaduct somewhere out in the bleak moorland, but an urban setting could also be attractive, with the buildings at each end hiding the sharp curves to the return loops. I'd also look into a automated control-syst
  8. G W Models do "nut spinners", which are a posh kind of box spanner, in small BA sizes. One can drop the nut into the spinner and use the tool to carry it onto the stud. For holding machine screws, jewellers' three-pronged stone-tweezers can be useful. They don't work very well for holding nuts.
  9. Polystyrene is a good insulator for low voltages (it insulates high voltages too, but is too mechanically fragile to be reliable). Whether it's safe thermally around a motor is unclear. It actually melts at ~ 240 Celsius (according to Wikipedia), but as we modellers know, it softens below 100 Celsius. I would worry about the motor-cladding pieces warping and flowing out of shape over months and years. If it were easy to replace damaged boiler-pieces, as it seems to be here, then I think i would go ahead and fix them as and when they did distort. However, if they were hard to replace then I wou
  10. York Modelmaking do a range of valancing and canopy brackets made by laser cutting. Scale Link fretcetera sell some etches of valances (search their site on "valance"; the relevant products are hard to find by browsing). To make valances at home, a diecutting machine seems suitable.
  11. Joking aside, they are of course the regulators to go with roof ventilators. One can see the operating handles for the hit-and-miss slides, to limit the flow of air. These things were the subject of a patent at one point (Laycock's?) and it would be of passing interest to know if the GWR are manufacturing under license, or if they're evading the patent, or if had lapsed at the time of this photo. I would guess that the photo was taken because the regulators were a new design.
  12. They look to me like spun metal, enamelled. Bakerlite is a resin, so probably clear or milky coloured in its natural state. The black colour in bakelite 'phones and such would be a dye.
  13. Chitubox is very useful software for operating home printers, and the free edition is very capable, but you get the UI/UX refinement you pay for. Some necessary operations are hidden, not documented and can't easily be discovered because they use atypical UI. Here's some notes to ease a beginner's frustrations. The Mac port of Chitubox seems to work, but the UI hasn't been converted properly to Mac conventions. The Chitubox menu in the menu bar doesn't have the usual new/save/save as... commands. These appear instead on a menu linked to a button top-left in the Chitubox window: the
  14. Inches are fine as a tool for modelling railway vehicles specified in imperial measure, but feet less so; there are vastly more dimensions given in inches than in feet on a wagon GA. Mixed feet and inches is unhelpful when computers are involved. I'm currently finishing CAD for a wagon chassis and my OpenSCAD code is full of macros like middle_bearer_thickness=inches(4.5) and solebar_height=inches(10.67). When it comes to the longer lengths I put wheelbase=inches((9*12) + 9) and similar.
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