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  • Location
    West Yorkshire
  • Interests
    Pre-grouping, and just after, especially Northern England and Southern Scotland. Enjoy building locos and stock in 7mm scale. Member of Wakefield RMS.

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  1. Thanks for all this information everyone. I will search out the e mail address and phone number as D51 suggests and give it a try. Love the little picture of the D51 by the way - one of my favourite locos!
  2. Anyone heard anything on this? Still had nothing through despite the site taking the payment.
  3. Thanks very much Jazz. Good advice as always. There is however a bit of an issue with the front splasher on Holmes/Reid locos in that it forms part of the front boiler wingplate - so that had to be in position first.
  4. The splashers proved to be a bit more of a challenge than was expected! The front ones tops were a little too wide and needed to be filed down a little. I made the splashers as sub assemblies first with 188 solder and then put them in place with 145. That involved some swearing! It proved impossible to solder them from the rear so it had to be done from the front and getting the iron in wasn't easy! What did loco builders do before the little modern miracle of blu tack to hold stuff in place? Once that was cleaned up I added the sandbox lids and lubricators. I replaced the whitemetal ones i
  5. The locos look great Chris, Can I add my support for Jol Wilkinson s' post. For years I thought soldering metal was some sort of black magic - then I was shown how to do it and realized that its no more difficult than using glue. Plus it has the fantastic added bonus of being able to take stuff apart if you make a mess of it! (If your read my posts you will realize that deconstruction is almost a daily occurrence! ) That's why I have found I prefer working with metal to other meduims. I do have a temp controlled iron though - makes things so much easier. The best advi
  6. More progress this week. I attached the valences and buffer and drag beams and the smokebox front with its wingplates. This was less of a problem than on the G7. I added the cab steps before I put the valences on using 188 for strength. I remember having problems with the first couple of locos I built in that the steps were weak and fragile. I therefore do a couple of things to strengthen them up. I drill a small hole through the back of the step and the back of the valance where it fixes. I push through a bit of wire and solder it in place. I then file it back so its invisible. I also solder
  7. For a number of years I have used the "safety flux" sold by "Building O Gauge Online". Though the website never seems to be updated I have never had any problems ordering through it. Last month I ordered a bottle of flux and some solder. The site took my order via paypal and I got an acknowledgement e mail. However I have not received my order, and the e mail only replies to an administrator. Can anyone get me in contact with those who supply through this site?
  8. The basic loco body has now been put together. I took an initial decision not to build in my usual way starting with the valances and buffer beams. This was because the rear cab steps are part of the valance, so I thought it might be easier to keep everything flat building initially on the flat footplate. I did this on the G7 tank and said I wouldn't do it again! However, Its also the recommendation of the kit designer and I will bow to Mr Dawsons superior experience. So far, all pretty straightforward you would expect form a kit from this stable. I made the cab, the boiler, and
  9. The loco chassis on the class B is pretty much complete. Decisions have been taken and we a working towards a saturated locomotive. One of the early batch with a Westinghouse brake. I began with the coupling rods as usual and then used the chassis jig to hopefully get everything square. Initially things were a little disappointing as the rods were binding, a problem I have not really had using the master chassis jig. Something was obviously wrong. Firstly it turned out the chassis was not quite level - I desoldered and realigned. Better, but still not right. For the first ti
  10. The Fox ones are on the Caledonian Railway Coach sheet. The lettering and numbering are the same pattern as NBR and slightly smaller than the guilplates ones. Its not obvious that the NBR lettering is there until you look closely at the sheet. Have you got the up to date contact for Guilplates they changed address recently. 4 Thorn Bank, Guildford, GU2 7PL.
  11. Guilplates do a set of coach transfers. They ae a bit overscale, but I find them fine. They do printed crests as well. They don't have a website but I can send you the address if you want. Strangely enough the fox transfers caledonian coaches sheet includes some NBR lettering as well. About enough for one coach. Peter is now doing some transfer crests which are much better than the printed ones. Though I have included the following picture on other threads it seems appropriate to have it here. The other vehicle is a D and S horsebox. I am glad to see others
  12. Delighted to see this thread back up and going again. Peter at 62C Models is going to be marketing the six wheelers as complete kits. If you drop him an e mail he is very helpful if you need any guidance with his kits. There is lots of good information in NBR Coaches: A design review by GWM Sewell available from the NBR study group. There is a photo of a completed 4 wheel brake on my Shezs workbench thread.
  13. Work has carried on building the tender for the Class B. It looks like I am coming down more on side of NBR rather than LNER. I pretty much continued to follow the instructions for most of the build, the main difference being the open coal rails. These are supplied as an etch which was first cut out and bent to shape using drill shanks to form the corners. I then attached half found wire all the way round attaching sections with wooden pegs to hold in position while it was soldered. I added the supports at the same time. For this job I used 188 solder. I then attached the as
  14. With the tender chassis completed it is time to get on with the tender body. In many ways building a Reid locomotive, the tender is a bigger challenge than the loco as its all curves and beading. The first challenge was to make the curves in the tender body. I used the same technique as I used for making the curves on the NBR tanks, bending the part over a piece of brass pipe held in the vice. I used the tender top to make sure I had got the shape correctly. Having added the front it was then time to add the first piece of beading from half round wire which needs to filed flat. I found it easi
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