Grahamrfd

No, you have to put positive of the left hand terminal and negative to the other to return the movement on dc. It's doable with switching but I want to use the switches for changing leds on the panel so if I can keep the points to one pole of the switch then all the better. Now to find my old 16v ac transformer

All sorted, runs off 16v ac, left hand terminal is common, other 2 for left and right throw

Thanks for your advice, I'll hopefully get home early enough tonight to try it with 16v ac, assuming I can find my old hm controller. Failing that I'll go down the route of using dpdt switches with 12v dc

I've tried I tonight using a 9v battery and although it does move I have to alter the polarity to get it to reverse. I don't have access to an ac supply at the moment to try that but maybe that will work

Hi, I'm looking for a wiring diagram for these old motors as I can't work out how to switch it. I have around 12 of them but not sure if they all work or not. Thank you

I can't help with your search for warflats but why not make your own. They are easy enough using plastruct and embossed styrene. I included the warwell photo just to show the bogies, also home made using brass frame.

I haven't seen much on here at all as get very little time for modelling but will certainly look it up as sounds very interesting. I've been building a little 8' X 16" shelf layout now for over a year and sometimes doubt it will ever be done. I need a new job ☺

Thank you Scott. Mike, I did consider the Judith edge chassis and even went as far as to buy some brass section for the stanchions but I don't have any spare money as my wife seems to want it all so went with styrene as already had most of what I needed in stock. Time will tell if it's going to be strong enough and they will need careful handling but the same can be said of much of the rtr stuff these days. I'm hoping eventually to build a whole rake of these but we will see if it ever happens.

I'm not sure if there is going to be a kit for this but decided to get on and make one anyway. Construction is just plasticard and plastistruct sections with MJT axleguards. Buffers will be from Lanarkshire model supplies and have these already . I was hoping to have this one finished this weekend but wasn't to be but hopefully will be soon, then to start the next 3 or 4 which will include the older version as well.

Hi Phil, I think it would be out of my price range to be honest. The truck I actually want now wasn't in the RTI range, I did speak to Frank about it and he did say he would look at it but I didn't know then about his illness, had I known I wouldn't have bothered him. I also want to make a couple of trailers which would be nice to release as a cast model. Ive never tried etching but was once given a large UV light from a commercial etching company when they had a clear out so maybe its time to give it a try. The truck I'm hoping to make is a Fiat from the 70s - 80s (lima made an Ho one) and if successful would be nice to release as a casting. Graham

Does anyone here know how Frank did the casting of his cabs? were they contracted out to a casting company or did he do them himself, and if so using what method. I might have a go at making some 80s trucks but don't know how I'd go about casting or moulding a one piece hollow cab having only ever done flat casting. I don't know if a laser cutter would etch styrene without melting it or possibly brass which would allow for decent grill patterns to be made. Any advice would be gratefully received Graham

This is so sad. I have just gone to his shop to order more cabs to stock up for the future only to find this bad news. It would be an interesting business to take on (and more fun than the 12" to the ft truck business I currently run) but It would be out of my reach financially however I do hope it does carry on as it is an excellent range of models not available elsewhere. Graham

You're getting on with it quicker than I am mine

I have a couple of Lima ones to do as well and a couple of 27s. What livery are you going to do this in?

Yes, first port of call and is fine for most of the lettering but on some wagons there is some very small lettering, They don't all seem to have it though so I can just leave it off I suppose. Thanks Graham