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SimonMW

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    Brisbane, Australia

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  1. Horribly slow posting this evening (Aussie time, lunchtime UK). I posted a reply, it took so long I thought it had died (about 3 minutes), tried another browser, and completed reposting it that in the time the first one took to finally complete... then the second one eventually also posted 3 or 4 minutes later lol... so I ended up with a double post. I've never seen it that bad... Edit - posting this took about 5 seconds... so it's certainly intermittent!
  2. Or a simple statement from Hattons on how the cab lights are setup As noted previously, my 6-function decoder runs all of the external lights fine, per the manual... just not the cab lights, again as per the manual's statement that they won't work with 6-function decoders. If a 10-function decoder will work it would not be overly difficult for them to let us know (with comment on logic level vs full output functions required). All in all though, a lovely model. Even if I have had to glue on an axle cap, and struggle with the steps when taking the body off to fit the decoder!!!
  3. I'm using a Zimo MX634D in my 66, configured as a MX634C (which takes 5th and 6th functions and makes them logic level not full), and it works as expected per the manual. No cab light control, also as per the manual for a 6-function DCC decoder. It would be good to hear from Hattons on what the *actual* requirements are for cab light control - 8 or 10 function? Full or logic level? The place I got the Zimo from couldn't even get cab lights working with a loksound 5 per the manual... so he's not sure what they have done.
  4. And it is great that YOU do what YOU can do - that is what this hobby is supposed to be about. BTW, Aussie here, capable modeller AND RTR buyer, even (shock horror) of items that are not necessarily faithful replicas of real things at real times... As to the (deliberately misunderstood?) comment about adult toys - heck, I'll happily tell people I play with adult toys, regardless of any interpretation people put on that :-D I tell people I "play" with model trains quite often - and quite often get the 'so you play with toy trains' comment. The best answer is then the look on their face when I show them a video or photos of my layout. This thread, and its 64 pages (so far) continue to remind me why this hobby struggles to attract new interest. It's funny, as a community "we" are so judgmental - both of each other, manufacturers, etc., particularly online on forums. I find at the shows I've been to, the clubs / associations I have been / am part of, that people in real life in this hobby tend to be more accepting of others and varied opinions. To the subject at hand - as many have said - if this is what Hattons want to do, can make some money from it, can enhance people's enjoyment of THEIR model railways / collections / wall-mounted-and-stuffed displays... then good luck and I'm all for it, whether or not they could have done something 'better' easily, for no more cost, etc., etc. At the end of the day they are putting up their money. We have the choice to do the same. For me, good on them - I'll buy a couple.
  5. Very similar to my experience. I also provided feedback on their new search and website, but no response. I put up with it, and buy from there occasionally, but tend to use the other mob more now - older website but I find it better to find what I'm looking for.
  6. It was your comment "ANY 6-pin direct-fit chip will work fine with the DJModels WD saddletank" which I was pointing out was incorrect. Commenting on what you have that works for you is much safer than blanket statements...
  7. Unfortunately not true. The DJ J94 is a coreless motor that proves difficult to run smoothly with some chips that do not have the ability to cope well with the BEMF requirements. I've found Zimo 617 / 622 work OK, DCC Concepts ZN6 do not.
  8. Brilliant, thank you. The page I was linking from has an incorrect link then.
  9. I'd like to complete my City of Truro collection with 3717, but whilst the Locomotion website shows it as in stock (see images) the web page goes nowhere... I've sent a contact form from the website a week ago and an email at the start of this week, and have heard nothing... does anyone know if anyone is actually there lol and if they have these in stock?
  10. My J94 runs like a dog, like it's not collecting current properly. Stops, has to be pushed, starts, stops again... I've sent Dave a message to see what he recommends. It's been in a box for a year since purchase, now coming out for use on layout. Runs ok-ish on rolling road, but real (straight / level / single piece) track and the movement is killing it.
  11. 42xx x 2 now running beautifully, but it took some work. Pulled apart, fixed up wipers, cleaned wheels. DCC Concepts ZH8H (8-pin with harness), with the decoder taped to a DCC Concepts ZSSA very large stay alive, fit perfectly into the smokebox, with the plug being inserted into socket as it comes back together. The 8-wheel rigid chassis just aligns really badly with dead spots on the electrofrog diamond crossing, this has fixed it. So I now have 2 x straight 42xx, with one to now be renumbered to 4254.
  12. If there is a fault in the loco's wiring it can fry a decoder even if all you have done is plug it into an 8-pin socket and place it on the track. Always pays to check the loco first on DC, then pull out the blanking plug and check for isolation between motor and track. I had a Hornby Castle with faulty wiring in the 8-pin socket... ran fine on DC, plugged a decoder in and it fried it. I should have checked the wiring first. Shouldn't have HAD to, but should have anyway.
  13. Neither of my two R3222 42xx have brass bearings, both are just axles running in the chassis. As I have posted above the rigidity of the chassis is causing me issues on track that is less than 0.5mm out of level in 300mm when combined with the (electro-)frog gap and plastic insulator on a diamond, which results in 3 axles being non-conductive, and presumably the fourth not bearing on track due to sideplay. I found the footplate relatively easy to straighten, a lot simpler than I was worried it was going to be, so if anyone else has one don't be too afraid to pull it apart. A lot harder though is getting the thing to run over my diamond at slow speed...
  14. Back to backs are about 14.15mm to 14.2mm.
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