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Ian Major

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  • Location
    Far from my natural habitat.
  • Interests
    Gauge 0 GWR/WR loco construction plus the odd wooden ship model.

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  1. Thanks George. Actually I have a confession to make. The "historic" photos are the ones with the clean workspace. Currently the workspace is more, shall we say, lived in! Ian.
  2. Wantage No 5 is now back in the display case where she looks quite splendid. She will stay there until I get some transfers sorted out for her. In the meantime I turned my attention to a model that has been hanging around my paint-shop for even longer than "Jane" - a London Road Models Johnson 3130 Class (LMS 2F). I had taken some photos during the early part of the build some 20+ years ago. The first shows it posed next to a pair of Eric Underhill locos (lovely kits). The tender is nearly complete. I converted the buffers to self contained to avoid clashing
  3. Hendie, That is looking fabulous with the roof posed above the body. BTW. Have a look at this article on the BBC website. The fifth photo down should be of interest to you. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-edinburgh-east-fife-54540298 Ian.
  4. Hendie, Some mighty fine work shown in your photos. The track end caps are spot on. The colour of the roof cradles is a question. If they are the same or similar colour to the roof it may give an impression that they are part of the roof. Black is a big stark. A medium grey or some similar non descript colour may do the trick. Your concerns about PVA glue ageing and allowing any ballast to fall away is a genuine concern. Perhaps the ballast is not such a good idea - even though it was my not so good idea! Worth a few more experiments though. Ia
  5. Nasty. It looks like you have two gone on the top bogie. With the two gears on one shaft, both same diameter and tooth pitch, I wonder why they don't use a single wide gear to engage with the worm. It would be more robust. Shame 'cos you had done a lovely job on it. Ian.
  6. John, Your assumption is correct. If it were to cut left to right the top rake ( which slops from right to left in your photo) would tip the opposite way. The cutting point on your tool is top right on your photo - you will note that the front, top and right hand side slope away from this point which indicate the direction of cut. Ian.
  7. John, Getting parts, as opposed to tools, for Unimat lathes can be challenging. The first thing that you will almost certainly need will be replacement drive belts. Below is a quote from a David (LO) Smith entry on the Gauge 0 Guild Forum on the subject. (David is a member of the G0G Techical Comittee and appears in various guises on several modelling forums). "Unimat belts are totally ridiculous in my view; they are i) cheekily expensive, ii) far too small/tight and, iii) overly large in cross-section. ... but the solution to all of this is to buy 4mm round belti
  8. John, You have been given some excellent pointers and advice above. I will add a couple of things. 1) When you need to replace/obtain drill bits do so via specialist tool suppliers eg Drill Service (Horely) Ltd . A guy who who knows a lot more about tools and modelling put it to me "don't get your bits from the usual model railway exhibitions". I didn't heed this advice and ended up with badly ground bits that cut over size and wandered. From the specialists you can get bits with very small cutting diameter with a wider shank that are more securely held in the collets.
  9. Lovely work. The next time we take the grandchildren out for lunch I must remember to retain the empty Tomato Ketchup packets. I don't use the stuff myself. This would go in to my pockets along with the small, empty jam jars that I collect from cafes. I do get some funny looks when I am doing it. Ian.
  10. Hendie, Those supports deserve to be the centre of a model in their own right. I am not sure what though - Steam Punk indeed! Ian.
  11. First - thank you all for the likes. It is most appreciated. Finally on "Jane" for now scans of my chicken scratchings which may or may not be of interest. They are intended to add on to Laurie's words. My notes on the buffer/beam are above. I like to start my project with a basic history of my subject. It helps to keep my mind focused - the older I get the more it wanders! Next my notes on the frames. The cylinder assembly. The valve gear... The cab...
  12. Thanks George. Just trying to keep up with your standards. Ian .
  13. Hendie, I agree with Ian. I notice on the left of your photo you have some spare sleepers. I think I would use them to experiment. If it looked fine and to your taste then go with it. As you say you don't want to glue ballast on to your base only to find that you didn't like it. Everyone I know who do ballasting use diluted PVA on to the ballast after it is brushed between the sleepers. Something to watch here is that some ballast chippings go green if they react with the PVA. The watchword is "experiment" on a test piece - something you are ve
  14. Jane Part 2 To complete the loco I will (try to) make some lettering transfers. I have some Hannants Xtradecal (blank) for this. Obviously I will be trying test pieces first. Then satin varnish and finally glazing. Some photos of the painted loco. The chassis has no paint on it. This was chemically blackened as per Martyn Welch's MRJ article. I did this at the time of construction. In the intervening years the black has tended towards a dark grey/brown. We actually had a bit of sunshine. So I managed to bang off a few pi
  15. Excellent stuff. The "signal gantry" idea to support the roof is intriguing. That would not have occurred to me! Is it worth ballasting the track? That is well short of a diorama but it would improve the appearance of the sleepers. Ian.
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