Jump to content

David Siddall

Members
  • Content Count

    904
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

881 Good

Profile Information

  • Location
    South East Wales

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Well... I've started painting and weathering the goods shed. Nothing fancy, just some cheap aerosol satin black as a base coat plus some very thin washes of (so far) sleeper grime. There's definitely more to do (I know I've got some gunmetal somewhere) and the platform needs to look more 'woody'... but that's for another day. David
  2. Shortly after writing the above post I winged an email off to Parkside and received a reply a few of hours later offering to supply me with the van body mouldings at what can only be described as a very favourable price. Replied this morning saying 'thank you', 'yes please' and that my preference was for online payment and received a PayPal invoice by return email. Net result... I've got my grounded van body sorted courtesy of great customer service from Andrew Hastie at Parkside Dundas; thank you Andrew! :-) D
  3. That is excellent news :-) It would be great if you could share Richard's contact details so I can order some ASAP... 'Lincs' are (IMO) the least intrusive auto-couplings I've seen for 7mm scale, work brilliantly on Factory Lane Sidings and for that reason I really want to use them on on my layout. I've been putting off of fixing the track and starting ballasting because I want to get the magnets in place to test them with my chosen auto-couplings first. Ahhhh, the joys of depositing a hopper wagon on my coal-drops without having to deploy the hand of (insert deity of choice here) to release pesky three-links chains (its an eyesight thing ;-) David
  4. As a certain supermarket is wont to say CME, 'every little helps', thanks for that :-) I have however just spotted a Parkside kit of a wonderfully venerable LNER (ex NBR) 8 Ton Goods Van conveniently moulded in plastic, the prototype for which which they say would have been built somewhere between 1893 to 1903. Just the sort of vintage item of freight stock I'd visualised as ending up grounded for use as a store/bothy. I think I'll drop them an email asking them if they wouldn't mind selling one ex-wheels and transfers? David
  5. Difficult to measure precisely whilst they're still in the packet Chris – the header card says "to suit all fixing requirements" ;-) D
  6. And unless you're going for all glued construction I can let you have a couple of packets of left-over holes... ;-) David
  7. Not much done today but the weather was just too good to be indoors! The whole thing has now been trued up – having one wonky wall with a bow in it was quite fun but looked too weird in model form – and Skytrex's moulded resin representation of corrugated sheet has now disappeared beneath an overlay of Slaters plasticard. I tried embossing a representation of the sheets's fixings but my efforts didn't look particularly convincing so I decided to kick that idea into touch. The building is now square and the platform has been extended forward so it's overhang and that of the building is consistent all round. All together much more better (IMO :-) Now... inspired by CME's photo of the 'van body' (bottom photo in the post above) has anyone got any suggestions for the type of van that might have ended up grounded and decrepit at the end of a bucolic North Eastern freight-only branch? Bye for now... David
  8. I'm liking that! Inspiration for a ancient grounded North Eastern van body I think :-) David
  9. When the infrastructure catches up with your superbly modelled locos, stock and buildings that's going to be one awesome layout Chris :-) David
  10. Hmmmm... I'm thinking cream might just be a little too west-country for a ramshackle corrugated goods shed allegedly set in North Yourshireland CME? Green would certainly work Chris but my prototype knowledge of how things were done lineside 'oop in the north east' is still a tad basic. Green also shouts 'tin tabernacle' to me – no particular reason, it just sort of does ;-) A black (bitumen) finish on the other hand appeals, though whether or not any galv on the sheets beneath would show through numerous layers of gloopy black coating I don't know? In a former life we had a Dutch barn in which we stored feed and bedding for the children's ponies. It had been bitumened many times in its life and in the sunshine went a magnificent matt blackberry black with hints of lichen and moss. I also used to coat the steel hulls of my various narrowboats with black bitumen every other year (that previous life again). After twelve months or so the bitumen would go a what I can only describe as a matt dark grey-black with a hint of silver (...a deft touch of gunmetal as you suggest). David Go on CME, definitely post a couple of photos of Marc's work – always inspirational and worthy of sharing with the widest possible audience :-)
  11. Thanks for the tip Pete... Good advice there CME, I've just checked and it's reasonable (as in 'so so') match but not spot-on... Pete, can you recommend a supplier of suitable thin pewter foil? Something I might seriously think about as an overlay as I could impress a representation of the sheet fixings through from the back. David
  12. I have to say, cheaper ply has its time and place, although, as Chaz says, it may involve compromises... Another anti-splintering trick when cutting plywoods is to paint thinned PVA, proprietary wood hardener; or best of all (IMO) thinned Expoxy Resin along the line you want to cut on both sides of the sheet. Whatever 'hardener' you use it needs to be thinned sufficiently to ensure it soaks through the outer ply's and bonds them thoroughly. Finally to protect edges from moisture and splintering as a result of accidental knocks give them a further couple of coats. David
  13. One way to minimise splinters when cutting plywood (or any laminated material for that matter) is to run some masking tape along both sides of the sheet along the line you intend to cut, rub it down firmly, draw the line you want to follow onto the masking tape and off you go. Jigsaws (manual or powered) are best at cutting curved shapes not straight lines and its difficult to avoid shaggy edges as the blade flails about when attempting a straight cut. A hand-held circular saw is probably the best tool for square-cutting sheet of any description, or failing that a nice new rip saw held at about 10-15 degrees from the timber and used gently (allowing the saw to do the work). How do I know this... ownership of a woodworking shop as part of a sign business and two narrow boats fitted out from bare steel shells. Both used ply in various forms (shuttering, marine, faced, etc) in prodigious quantities and in niether application were splintered edges an option... David
  14. Thanks for the suggestion Barnaby but I won't be in the least bit sorry to bid farewell to the Skytrex roof. The material from which it is cast is like old soap that's gone brittle! Just the thought of patiently attempting to file convincing and consistent wavy edges into the beastly stuff is torture enough :-/ D
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.