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  1. I visited one of my regular model shops to possibly order a network southeast one, but they said nothings been mentioned yet, but the Bachmann website says "July" Lets hope it is then Thank you to everyone so far who has posted up picturesso far, I think definitley be parting with my remotored Lima one at some point soon! NL
  2. Looking good Steve, good to see transfers for this livery being produced! I'll add it on my "to do" list NL
  3. If I had the resources I'd happily take this job, it is an easy livery to do, one ive never done myself, but easy enough to do. @railtec-models, by the looks of it the "Police Badge" on 47829 has a white outline around it, would that be printed onto the transfer? although Im guessing you could also carefully spray the parts around the star part NL
  4. Yes, priming your GUV before painting can be a good method to find any blemishes or areas that need attention before painting, also if you remove or add any detail. Give your model a few light coats of BR blue, allow a short time of drying between coats, thinner wise use around 5-7 drops of thinner from a pipette to around 5ml of paint, some airbrushes ive noticed require different ratios slightly, so practise with your airbrush first until your comfortable using it, when I got my first airbrush I practised on an old Locomotive body until I got the correct ratio of paint I was happy with NL
  5. Likewise, when my Pheonix thinners have run out and I need to spray one of their paints, ive found that Humbrols' thinners work just as well. I usually find as well that blockages no matter how big or small can cause problems, I always use Airbrush cleaner along with the "back / forward flushing technique/s" which gets rid of any dried paint, as not forgetting the nozzle which covers the needle when the atomised paint is released is only a few millimeters in diameter NL
  6. A livery like that is easy to do (IMO) but I wouldnt know wher eto get the transfers from, Railtec might do them, but otherwise thats probably why youve had a lack of response, I did at one point think of doing the Police 47 for myself (Even if it may of been out of era slightly), but the transfers would probably be the main stumbling block NL
  7. id say its more the fronts that hurt the weathering on the BR blue one, it literally looks like someone dipped their finger in IPA/white spirit and pressed it against the front of the model, think I'll wait for the price to come down on that one if ever I was to buy it as the weathering isnt gret NL
  8. I have a set of 4 Lima class 47 buffers, theyre in grey if you dont mind that NL
  9. The 117 does look nice ,but its a shame its not in the earlier NSE livery, I dont think I could justify the cost of the model £200+ then respraying the blue to the correct shade, I could wait but that will depend if Bachmann were to have the original NSE in the next batch or the one after NL
  10. NickL2008

    Class 59 in 00

    Thats ok, its a thumbnail, and also think it looks better as well, something that breaks up that plain yellow front! NL
  11. NickL2008

    Class 59 in 00

    Yes I got it few weeks back, I kind of like it, but the front looks odd without the Black window surrounds. The livery kind of reminds me of a track tamper livery! Ironic that 59206 is again the first of the 59/2's to carry a new livery NL
  12. Use Enamel paint for the plate as it will go on better NL
  13. Im glad Im not alone is saying those couplings are awful, theyre excessively big, the rest of the model does look good though NL
  14. I must admit it does take a little time to get familiar with Gaugemasters' system, but the part relevance is quite simple when you break it down, for example: HN-OO-ACBUS-014 = HN (Heljan), 00 (00 guage), ACBUS (AC railbus), 014 (part number) Though it is badly listed with 1002, 00 guage spares to sift through until you find the one youre looking for, I guess until they get a better system in place, grab a cuppa or preferred beverage as youre going to be there a while! NL
  15. I replaced the ones on my 960011 model with ones from Wizard models (22" Oleos), but it was quite a job getting rid of the cast shanks off of the bufferbeam though so probably not for the faint hearted, the new ones though look much better than the Dapol Shanks anyday, a pity though as the supplied ones are decent enough NL
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