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  1. I might have to do this too, but I won't get an answer until Monday at the earliest now, so.... I want to remove the Peco Turntable from a layout I bought, and I don't know how it was fixed to the board. The layout has scenery and ballast topping all around the turntable edge and pit base, obscuring some of the detail. Could anyone who has fixed one tell me, is it just glued on the outside flange to the top of the cut-out, or are there some hidden fixings i need to find? If I could get an answer over the weekend then I might get a little work done, unless I find something else to distract me. TIA.
  2. Then let me be the first to use it. Well done Pete.
  3. Could anyone post images of the relevant Roundel design, logo, livery so that I can follow. I've a few EWS / EW&S locos but would be keen to follow this to get a better understanding. TIA
  4. Understand your observation, I agree, the layout is very orthogonal (and flat), something that I'd like to address later on.
  5. Hi Ian, You are right, it's a great layout which I bought. It was (almost) what I was looking for, I knew it was on the large size when I got it but I also knew that if I waited until I built my own layout I'd have never found enough time between work, family and other commitments. Maybe when I retire I'll build my own layout. As I'll be modelling a diesel era layout I intend to update a lot of the structures (maybe make some derelict or have more modern additions). The turntable will be defunct anyway, so I won't mourn the loss of it and the 1 branch line. I'll either remove the turntable completely or leave the partial remains as an architectural antiquity.
  6. May I just address the issue of moving the door / widening the door etc, to avoid wasting fellow forum members time with suggestions that are not possible. Of course anything is possible, if you chuck huge disproportionate amounts of money at it and accept the collateral impact of a smaller bedroom. Here's the plan As on Off-Topic competition (on another thread please), anyone like to suggest how my wife will respond if I give her the option of £3K to make an opening larger, get a new door and lintel, move a wall, move electrics, redecorate and new carpet and have a smaller bedroom, or cut the edge off your trainset?
  7. That polava, plus the existing storage arrangement (being a mess) means that setting-up and taking down the layout for a few hours fun is really offputting. Plus there is a high risk of damage. OT: I cannot even extract just a few boards and set them up, I have to remove the baseboards from top -> down, set them aside safely out of the way before I get to the main scenic boards. Some boards rest on top of others. With my new rack, I'll be able slide in & out individual baseboards. Back On Topic.
  8. I can see why you suggest turning over the baseboard, to avoid the blade ripping the newly cut edge top surface, but the boards have track, platforms and buildings (some will go). Plus the underside has electrics, so I wouldn't be able to place the 'cutting board' flat to the underside. Does the cutting board, being flat to the surface being cut, stop the edge ripping? I think this is a great tool to have and I'll make one for my circular saw, thanks for the tip. I think that if I put a new edge batten along the new cut line, like @Stubby47 suggests, and then run on the table say, the downward direction of the saw blade will give me a neat cut on the top of the baseboard.
  9. You sure you're not my uncle? He's full of useful helpful tips too.
  10. Hi Philip, You are absolutely right, there is no reason why each board cannot be taken through the door on their side. However there are 9 boards plus ancillary pieces, like legs etc and I'd like to avoid the repeated manhandling operation of decanting 9 boards, moving the 9 boards plus rack and then reloading the 9 boards. If I could just wheel out the rack in one operation...... Unfortunately I cannot keep the layout set-up all the time so I need to keep it safely in a storage rack.
  11. I thought of putting this into the 'Challenges' forum. The layout I bought last year is giving me great enjoyment, and I've rarely driven a loco. Some of the fun has been on re-wiring from DC to DCC and the design of a suitable storage rack. My problem with the layout is that the layout boards are 700mm wide but the door to the room is only 670mm wide at a push. The storage rack I was considering building would need to be collapsible if it were to ever come out of the room. This would mean decanting the layout off the storage rack (finding somewhere safe to leave them), collapsing the rack, moving the rack to the other side of the door and then re-filling the rack with the layout boards every time I wanted to move it. I've spent a good 10+ months pondering this in-between other modelling tasks. Another thought was to change the door opening width but this was not an option (structural pier to one side and a bedroom wall to the other side, I did consider it though). Then over the weekend I think I've had a bit of an epiphany. I thought, could I shave a bit off the layout? I'd need to reduce the layout board's width from 700mm to 615mm, lopping 85mm off the length. The furtherest side of the boards from the user only has some scenery, a branch line and a turntable (which I was looking to make look derelict, but now would be redundant / removed). Things which I'd need to do are: Lift the track, should be easy. Disconnect any wires to the side of the board which will be chopped. But then, how do I cut off the edge? Tools I have available to me are: Circular Saw Table Saw Oscillating Saw Once I start cutting into the layout top I'm aware that the supporting edge will be removed, leaving the top prone to sagging and therefore damage. Thinking aloud, probably best to fix a temporary batten inbound of the cut, to keep the board level & supported. The oscillating saw would allow a fine cut. I'd be able to get close and do the cut with care, but it's not highly accurate (exact parallel cut) and would be slow. The table saw would be precise, giving an accurate parallel cut. I'm concerned that it's a big machine working on a model layout. If set up properly it might be the best solution, but I'd need to explore all the pitfalls. Any suggestions would be welcome
  12. Thanks John, that's a really good solution. I was reading the link @brossard had provided to Allan Gartner's site 'Wiring for DCC' where he discussed choc blocks to trouble-shoot shorts and was suggesting (unless I read it wrong, it was very late last night / this morning) that every dropper is connected to the bus via a screw terminal. I thought that this was OTT complicated, but your suggestion is a very neat adaptation. Thanks.
  13. Good advice which I have noted. Thanks
  14. I'm rewiring my layout from DC to DCC and am seeking advice on Track Bus best practice. The length of each baseboard is 1,200mm and the depth is 700mm. In the examples below I have only shown one line to represent the principle. Also, I haven't shown connections to all sections of track. Track Bus option 1: One cable somewhere central along the board, (avoiding point motors etc) Some droppers could be about 400mm long. A Bus Suppressor would be at each end of the track bus. Track Bus 2: One cable located in an ideal position for most of the track, with a 'spur' off to another same sized track bus to fee sidings etc. Would the Bus Suppressor just be needed on the main Bus, or also at these spurs too? Track Bus 3: One cable which zig-zags across the layout providing power to the track to ensure the droppers are of minimal length.
  15. Damo666

    EBay madness

    I'm not totally sure how eBay works, but it looks like the seller accepted a 'Best Offer'. Is this saying that it was sold within 10 minutes of the item going on-line?
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