[An 1850s Broad Gauge Tilt Wagon]

Both slicers allow you to view the path of the print head. Prusa slicer seemed to generate far more travel movements than Cura for some reason. As far as I know I had the same travel/retraction settings in both.

 

Personally, I prefer to break the bodies down into a kit of parts as it allows me to orientate each to get best print quality.

[An 1850s Broad Gauge Tilt Wagon]

I changed from Prusa slicer to Cura which made a big difference.

[3D-printed Double Fairlie]

For PLA I use Deluxe Plastic Magic or EMA Plastic Weld

[Adding Skins to Carriages]

I always admire people who think outside the box and try new ideas. Without them the hobby would never advance. Nice one!

[Day 65: more printing issues]

Once cured put them in near boiling water and watch them relax. If necessary you will probably be able to straighten them in your fingers and then hold them under cold water.

[Day 36: basic 3D print setup]

Can I suggest you get a foil roasting tray and stand the printer in it. That way if you get a resin leak for any reason it will be contained and not go over everything. An old tray would also do.

[24.3mm Axles - Help!]

Sounds like ex Lima axles. Alan Gibson lists them as an option.

[Improving some Kirk teaks Part 1]

I can spot a Kirk Gresley from a long distance by the curve of the domed roof. The real thing is a much better shape. If you can restore this with Milliput you should then be in a position to replace the undersized corridor connection.

 

If you can separate the roof then check the roof height against the side height. The roof is too high for the sides. Reduce the roof height at cornice level, remove moulding draft from the sides then add a thin trip of plasticard to the sides to increase their height.

 

Removing the moulding draft from the window apertures also improves their appearance.

 

You can also replace the roof with an MJT one.

[Track and ballast]

With SkaleScenic produces I have found sieving the gravel with a fine tea strainer helps a lot. I use the courser grains as a base/fiiler and finish with the fine grains on top.

[Time to Ditch the layout?]

First of all, the most important question is this: if it ran perfectly would you still want to replace it with something new? As you will now be aware there are many benefits of the T Trak approach, or modules in general, giving greater flexibility moving forward.

 

There is a technique used by the East Surrey N Gauge group who use modules extensively within the club. They use N Trak modules. With the N Trak system the rails stop some 2" short of the module end and 4" bridging pieces of Peco streamline physically join the two sections together. Using this approach the is no rail joint at the module interfaces and they seem to run with no problems.

 

If your answer to my first question was something like "yes I would like to sort out my current layout" then it should be posible to retrofit this arrangement. You would need to measure back 2" from each "joint" and using a rotory cutter cut through the rails and remove the track across the joint. Cut 4" lengths of matching Peco track and thread fishplates on so not part of the fishplate extends beyond the track end (you will probably need to remove some sleepers for this). Place the new length in the new gap between boards and using a sharp screwdriver slide the fishplate along the rail to extend onto the adjacent rail. Given the layout is permanent you can then paint/balast the new pieces to match the rest of the layout. Worth a try?

[Time to Ditch the layout?]

It does sound a shame if you are happy with all other aspects. To be able to make suggestions we probably need some more information about the current arrangement:

• Is the layout permanently fitted in the room or do you strip it down into modules and reassemble to run?
  
• Are the baseboards flat and do the top surfaces match at joints?
  
• How is the Peco track fixed down onto the board and what underlay (if any) did you use?
  
• Where derailments occur are you aware of the reason (i.e. vertical or horizontal missalignment, joint on curve)?
  

[More hardstanding, and a spot o' ballast]

Hornby ballast is a heavy product, like granite ballast, so tends to stay in place when glued in place. Unlike granite it does not discolour with the application of diluted pva or Klear.