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3D-printed Double Fairlie


MikeOxon

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Background

 

Several years ago – 2006 in fact – I was driving away from a visit to Blaenau Ffestiniog slate quarries and noticed that the last train of the day was due to arrive at the railway station.

 

It turned out to be quite a long wait, as the train on the Festiniog Railway was in trouble and eventually arrived with a broken flexible steam pipe to one of the power bogies. With a sense of ‘make do and mend’, the trailing end of the pipe was lashed up and the train then made a very late start for Porthmadog, relying on just one power bogie for the downhill trip

 

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Broken Steam Pipe of ‘David Lloyd George’

 

At that time, my small model railway was in abeyance, although I did think briefly about the Langley Models kit, which seemed rather basic and also required the purchase of an American diesel to provide the chassis.

 

Now, there is the Bachmann model, which looks very nice but, at £200, this is too expensive just to satisfy a vague whim. It’s too long anyway for my rather tortuous narrow gauge track around the North Leigh quarries.

 

I did feel an ‘itch’, however, to try one as a 3D modelling task. I felt it provided an interesting challenge to lay out the components in such a way that they could be printed on my basic FDP printer.

 

Steps to Creating My Model

 

I found a drawing by Ian Beattie of a ‘typical’ Festiniog Double Fairlie in ‘Railway Modeller‘ November 1992, which I have used as a basis for my model. I also found a very helpful photo of an unclad ‘Merddin Emrys’ at Boston Lodge on the Festiniog ‘Facebook’ pages. This showed me several normally hidden details of the boiler and its supporting structures.

 

The Footplate

 

Following my usual method, I imported the Ian Beattie drawing, as a ‘canvas’, into Fusion 360. I started by extruding the footplate from the plan view in this drawing collection, as shown below. I designed this so that the top surface was completely flat and could be laid on the bed of my FDP printer

 

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Extruding the Footplate in Fusion 360

 

Since I do not have a practical application for this type of engine, I am treating it simply as a design exercise.

 

The Cab and Firebox

 

The next challenge was the central cab. Since I had included the parts of the sides below the footplate and the firebox plinth in my initial footplate component, I had to create a part that would sit flat on the firebox plinth. I first drew the front and back ends of the cab by tracing over the drawing. The sides were a little more complex, because of the ‘joggle’ in the width, at mid-height.

 

I created a 1mm ‘offset’ drawing inside the edges of one of the end walls of the cab and then extruded this profile along the length of the cab to create both sides and the roof. I then drew the outline of the side opening on one side of the cab and used the ‘push-pull commend to cut out these openings through the entre width of the cab. These stages of my construction are illustrated in the following drawing:

 

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Steps in designing the Cab for my Model

 

After the extrusion described in Step 1, my next Step 2 was to add the other end wall to the cab and then complete the assembly by adding a floor, which would sit on the firebox plinth, when printed.

 

Step 3 shows the twin firebox, which was a separate extrusion and, as in the case of the cab, I drew the detail of the fire doors on one side of the box before using the push-pull tool to emboss the details of the two doors. I also added the shaft for the handbrake. Similarly, I added some details of the reversing lever on the opposite (Driver’s) side of the firebox.

 

Step 4 shows the complete cab with the firebox inside, aligned over the footplate, which I had extruded first. Note that the large holes through the length of the firebox and cab ends are to allow a brass tube to be passed along the whole length of the printed model, to act as a ‘spine’, both to align the two boilers and to hold everything together.

 

The Side Tanks

 

The next challenge was presented by the four side tanks. Those on the Fireman’s side contain coal bunkers while, on the Driver’s side, there are tool boxes on top. These tanks form mirror-image pairs at each end of the engine.

 

To create the tanks, I started by extruding from a rectangular base to the height shown on the drawing,. On the prototype, the tanks have extensions on their inner sides to fit around the boiler. I created these by drawing the end profile and extruding this along the length of the tank. I added the tank fillers by extruding upwards from the top surfaces of the tanks, after drawing their profiles.

 

The coal bunkers were extruded in two parts: a rectangular base and the (initially) vertical plate behind the bunker. I then used the move tool to tilt the plate to the angle shown on the prototype drawing. After joining the two parts together I moved them into position on top of the relevant tanks (on the Fireman’s side) as shown below:

 

3D_CoalBunker-1.jpg.06b5c87059952befb5594d9d07d0b343.jpg

Coal Bunker on Fireman’s Side

 

Adding some Coal

 

As an interesting exercise, I thought that I would try adding a simulated coal load by means of 3D printing. In a previous post I described how I used an extension to Fusion 360 to create a surface texture. This comprised a ‘plug-in’ for 'Fusion 360' called ‘Image2Surface’, which adds the capability for 'Fusion 360' to create a textured surface from a 2D image. Downloading the appropriate software and then getting it to work was not straightforward but, fortunately, I found a 'YouTube' video, which explains the procedures very well.

 

In my previous post, I created a textured surface based on a photograph of gravel ballast. It occurred to me that the appearance was quite similar to that of small coals in a bunker, so I made a copy of my previously created texture and used the cutting tools in ‘Fusion 360’ to make a rectangular section to fit in the top of my coal bunker. The result is shown below:

 

3D_CoalLoad-1.jpg.b74500f9ad09e6f101f651ed76a047d2.jpg
‘Coal’ texture panel above my rectangular Coal Bunker.

 

With appropriate colouring, I feel that the gravel texture provides a reasonable representation of the top of a filled bunker! There is an important caveat when creating surfaces by this method – they can involve a very large number of facets and vertices, which results in very large file sizes. Even though my model bunker top only measures 4 mm X 17 mm, the .STL file that describes it occupies a staggering 258 MB. Of course, I could easily reduce that size by reducing the level of detail but the act of ‘slicing’ the model for printing reduced the size anyway, to a manageable level.

 

This is a technique to bear in mind for small applications but not really suitable for creating large areas of ‘facings’ on buildings and other scenery.

 

The Boilers and Smokeboxes

 

The two boilers are identical and are simple cylinders, formed in exactly the same way as I have described for many earlier engine models. Similarly, the boiler fittings and smokebox all followed my usual methods. Once I had brought all these parts together within the ‘Fusion 360’ software, my 3D model looked like this:

 

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My 3D Model of a ‘typical’ Double Fairlie

 

 

Printing my Model

 

As usual, I printed my model as a set of components, arranged so that each could be built up from a flat surface. With experience I have found that my FDP printer is far more tolerant of overhangs than I had initially thought. I now take more ‘liberties’ in the design and find that quite large openings, such as where the boilers fit into the cab ends, can be printed without any additional supports or ‘helpers’

 

I have previously printed smokeboxes as open tubes and added the curved front door separately. This time, I tried printing the smokebox as a single item and was surprised to find that my printer bridged the hollow centre behind the curved front without difficulty. I suspect that the ability to bridge gaps during printing depends strongly on the temperature of the filament when it is extruded.

 

The largest single part was the footplate and I printed this ‘upside down’ on the printer bed, taking advantage of the extensive flat surfaces. Note the opening in the cab side, which is ‘bridged’ without any additional support.

 

 

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Footplate Model on the Printer bed

 

Next, I printed the cab, which comprises the end and upper side walls, up to the level of the roof. Note that the lower side walls and a plinth for the firebox were included as parts of the footplate component.

 

3D-print_CabAssy.jpg.acc80e9f92c23ca52282cf9ebd82a3bf.jpg

3D-printed Cab, mounted on Footplate

 

The holes in the cab end walls are to accept a brass tube which runs the length of the model and holds the boilers and smokeboxes in alignment. This tube also adds weight to the structure.

 

I printed several of the smaller parts – sandboxes, domes, and chimneys – together as a group. They all printed surprisingly cleanly and despite the small contact areas remained firmly attached to the printer bed. This set of parts took just 12 minutes to print!

 

 

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3D-printed Small Components

 

For this model, I set the layer height when printing at the ‘normal’ setting (0.15 mm) rather than the ‘fine’ setting (0.10 mm) , which I use when there are rows of rivet detail or other detailed structures. This does mean that some ‘banding’ is visible in the photographs but is not noticeable at normal viewing distance on a 4 mm scale model.

 

My complete set of parts after printing is shown below:

 

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3D-printed Components of my Fairlie model

 

The first step in assembling the parts was to place the twin-firebox unit within the cab. I then inserted the central rod and slid the two boilers and smokeboxes over this, to check the overall alignment – which was good. I used superglue to hold this partial assembly together. I have read in some places that superglue does not work well on PLA plastic but that is not my experience, provided it is given time to polymerise. In fact, I have sometimes found it difficult to separate parts that I have inadvertently not aligned properly!

 

Adding the tanks came next. It’s important to get each tank in its correct position since they are all different! After a little trial and error, I found that the best method was to glue each tank to the appropriate end of the cab, ensuring that they were aligned correctly with the two boilers and that the tanks and cab all sat flat on a plane surface.

 

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3D-printed Model with tanks glued to cab

 

Once the bonds had hardened, I added the various small details – sandboxes, domes, and chimneys - by means of tiny drops of glue under each, then holding them in position for a few moments until the joint was firm.

 

Finally, I could glue all this ‘upper’ structure to the footplate, which was rather flexible on its own but gained rigidity once glued to the lower surfaces of the tanks. The complete assembly then looked as below:

 

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My 3D-printed double-Fairlie model

 

I have thoroughly enjoyed designing and constructing this model. Of course, the issue of the two power bogies remains!

 

I intend to apply lining and lettering by means of printed vinyl overlays as described in my earlier series of posts about ‘lining and lettering’.

 

Mike

 

 

Edited by MikeOxon
updated link

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  • Craftsmanship/clever 3

6 Comments


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1 minute ago, MikeTrice said:

For PLA I use Deluxe Plastic Magic or EMA Plastic Weld

Thank you, Mike.  I often just use a 200°C soldering iron to 'weld' parts together but this was too delicate for that method.

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  • RMweb Gold

Aha, moving into NG prototypes now, an interesting development. I suppose any prototype is possible for you now, especially if you don't have to worry about mechanisms.

 

I look forward to seeing it with the printed vinyl overlays. I suppose they will also help conceal the banding, so sound like a sensible approach.

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3 hours ago, Mikkel said:

Aha, moving into NG prototypes now, an interesting development.

It' just that I like to try the quirky and unusual and see what challenges they throw up, when it comes to modelling them. 

 

As this was just an experiment, I have printed at only 0.15 mm resolution, hence the banding but, as you say, the printed vinyl will cover most of that, although in reality it's not at  all obvious.

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  • RMweb Premium

Lovely job Mike. Shout if want one printed in resin, given the effort you’ve gone to you’ll get a much better finish. 

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Thanks njee20 but it was just an 'interesting' design to tackle, while I think about where I want to go next.

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