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SuperD's Achievements



  1. Hi Rich, thank you very much for your input, very helpful. I shall look at the link. The only difference I can see in the motors is the larger top bearing on "London". Regards John
  2. Hi RAF96, thank you very much for the reply. Having lubricated overnight I had another go with "London" and she set off like a good un', speed gradually increasing. However, after about ten minutes running flat out, the squeal returned. There is "end float" but I can't see any ball bearings. "Montrose" no joy. A neighbour has a multimeter so I'll ask him to oblige. The thing that concerns me is not being able to get the armature out of "London" as I can with the Duchess. Fortunately things seem to have worked the right way for me in that respect. Once again, thank you for your input. Regards
  3. Good evening all, I've recently acquired a couple of HD Loco's, "Montrose" and "London", both two rail and non runners. The magnets are weak and I realise a remag' will be required. I thought I'd start by cleaning everything and then a little Lub' to the bearings. I had no problem removing the armature from "Montrose" and cleaned it with a plastic tooth pick and cotton buds, added new springs and brushes, a touch of oil on the bearings, reassembled and set about 1mm of "end float". Put power to each brush....nothing. With "London" it briefly burst into life with power to the brushes but with a squealing noise that seemed to be coming from the commutator, there isn't a groove in the chassis top so I can't remove the armature without removing the wheels, which I don't want to do. Is there some "trick" to this? Any help/advice would be very much appreciated. Regards John
  4. I have no electrical skills, but have managed LED's OK so far. First, they are polarity sensitive. No problem in a station lighting situation, but would need a bridge rectifier on a loco to deal with forward/reverse. 12v is fine but if you use 3V you will need a resistor (3.3) with EACH LED. Again, if in a loco a capacitor will prevent flashing. I've put micro LED's in several Springside loco lamps, OK so far. HTH
  5. I too received a small package of 3 gearboxes today. A first order from me. Thank you Chris.
  6. Hi, thanks to all for the input. I've placed my order and had confirmation. Sorry to hear of the Covid Chris, all the best with that.
  7. I've been trying to place an order all day today but the site seems to be down. Has anyone else had the same problem?
  8. Since taking up this hobby I've acquired some odds and ends from eBay, amongst them a very nice SE finecast unrebuilt Scot body to fit the Triang chassis. I don't know how many variations there's been over the years on this, but if anyone has one spare I'd very much appreciate it. Regards John
  9. Mmm, one to think about. The "commands" are sent via the track, so you may have to operate a controller via RC servo to achieve that. Best of luck.
  10. Thank you. Rowsley, I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope for that then. Melmerby, I much prefer the easy option. Cheers
  11. Hi, a quick update. I can't get any 21mm 16 spoke Romford/Markits wheels anywhere, so progress stymied for the mo'. In desperation, I've ordered a set on you know where, with a broken crankpin in one wheel. Any suggestions on removal would be appreciated. In the meantime I've ordered another chassis and will keep myself busy with that. I've ordered the items that you suggested Brossard, thank you very much. Regards John
  12. Good morning all, I used the Comet jig and the axles fall straight through under gravity. which I don't think they would if it wasn't square, but that system looks interesting, I'll have a look. I'm using some Romfords from the auction site. I can't get hold of any Markits at the moment. This is a problem in so far as three are uninsulated and I don't want to go "live chassis", so I'll change them when I can get some. Back to the free running... I've already drilled the outside holes, I didn't realise that there was a broach so small (1.2mm) I must get one. But, try as I may, I cannot get this to run smoothly under it's own weight, so I lubricated it and put the motor in and tried it........... I intended posting a vid' but the file's too big......it runs really smooth and quiet. So my next hurdle, when I get some wheels, will be how to fix the rods on the crankpins without upsetting anything as it is now. Thank you all for the support so far
  13. Hi all, thank you very much for the input. I ran it this morning with rods off and got the same result. I'm using Romfords by the way. After a bit of head scratching I realised that one of the brass bearings had come loose, I don't know if this was because of the heat generated. Anyway, a bit awkward because I did the soldering before I folded the gearbox but I've redone it. While I had the motor out I put the rods back on and tried it for free running. It wasn't as good as the first time and there was a slight bind every revolution. I'd drilled the rods as instructions at 1.2mm and my next drill is 1.5mm, a little more than I would like. However, I did the outside wheels, but no improvement. So we'll see what tomorrow brings. Cheers
  14. There was one axle that didn't fall through without a push, so a touch with the broach and all fine. I then laminated the Coupling rods and put them on using the plastic insulation tip. ...... Amazed...still free running. Flush with success, I fitted the motor and put the chassis on a plinth with the wheels hanging free. Gently turned on the power............nice smooth running and very quiet.........Mmm, nothing to this modelling lark, I'll have a coffee and let it run for a while. Return to find it's a bit jerky, I feel at the motor and its really hot. It's a bit like golf... just when you think you've cracked it, you have your worst ever round... Coupling rods are off. I'll see what tomorrow brings. Cheers
  15. Thank you very much. I'll have a look re point no 4. Much obliged.
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