SuperD

"I do have this tendency to start on a project before I've even got the previously started one even halfway, but I suspect I'm not alone in that." I'm a fully paid up member of this club, LOL! I have about 6 on the go at the moment and must make an effort. If I need some parts I tend to start something else whilst waiting for delivery. Cheers

I've just done one and it didn't smell anywhere near as much as it used too. I filled a glass and stood the loco in it, kept it on the worktop, there was a slight smell when I disturbed it, but nothing much.

Hi Grifone, thank you very much for the in depth reply. For me, very informative. There are no tyres on it, the wheels seem to made from some "Mazac" type material. The crosshead, I think, is cast and the cylinders are black with orange lining, so I assume "Montrose". It is the "horseshoe" magnet and seems to fit the 39mm coarse thread armature. Regards

Dettol. Soak overnight, rub off with a tooth brush.

Hi, I'm reasonably new to the hobby (covid) but I've built a couple of locos on Comet chassis. I've recently acquired a HD rolling chassis. I don't know which loco was on it, but it's a 3 rail chassis. I remember the pulling power of these and would like to run it, but will have to convert. The wheels are pretty horrible anyway and I would need/like to fit Romfords to resolve the insulation problem. As I say. I'm not very experienced and the valve gear seems to be secured by some sort of pin. How would I remove it? Is this doable in such a way as to save and re use the valve gear? Any advice would be appreciated.

Hi Headstock, you've obviously done a great deal of research on this, for which I thank you. I had a project in mind and bought some bogie bolsters, but I was never happy with the chain that I bought so shelved it. If I can get some of this I'll resurrect it. Once again, thank you.

Hi, I particularly wanted to know about the chain gear. Thank you.

They look fantastic! Would you be kind enough to give the source please?

Hi, I've just done my first loco with valve gear, a Comet chassis Scot and finished up with this very same problem. A good bit of chunnering and a lot of patience later I managed it, but it's two halves next time I think.

I've found that 9.5mm spacers most useful.

I'm pleased to have spotted this thread. I acquired a 4f body in a job lot that I bought. I'm new to the hobby (CV19) and I wondered why it was too small to fit a Comet chassis. It weighs a ton and the only use I can think of for it is doorstop!

I think it's a bargain even if I throw the drill bits away!

CJI, thank you for your input. This is what I'm doing. The problem I have is keeping the rivet vertical while I tap it. Being so small it tends to tip and I finish up damaging the motion. I'm going to try sticking the assembly to sellotape.

Thanks Mick, I've never heard of a pin hammer! Regards

Hi, I've now built a few 4F chassis and decided to have a go at something bigger. I bought a Comet Scot/Jubilee chassis and have enjoyed doing it so far. I'm at the stage of assembling the motion with all the drop links etc. Comet provide a pack of rivets for this task, which, apart from the difficulties of a 70 odd year old actually seeing these, the biggest problem for me is opening them out. I'm trying to tap a sharp point into the rivet but don't have enough hands to hold everything and at the same time keep the rivet vertical whilst I do this. Any tricks/ advice would be appreciated. Best wishes to all for Christmas and New Year.

My pennuth for what it's worth... Re the "it's a race Toto"comment. The "race" was over well before the SC! Both CH and Verstappen senior had accepted that. Therefore, if the race had (as it should) ended under the SC, could anyone have complained over a Lewis win? Alternatively he could have red flagged and we would have had 5 laps of "racing", but everyone on new tyres and starting from previous positions. For some reason MM had set against that before the race. Re; Merc pitting... they had to plan their strategy on the basis of not putting Lewis in a position of overtaking Max. What do you think the result of that would have been?? The answer to that question tells you who should be the champ!!

In some ways Bottas reminds of him in the difficulty he seems to have in getting past other drivers.

I agree! "The professor" was fast and smooth, alone on a dry track!! He had to be "invited" to overtake (preferably in writing). He'd pit at the first drop of rain on his visor. Was the only driver "brave enough" not to race in that very wet Aussie GP and he was (or should have been) embarrassed by both Senna and Damon Hill in the wet Donnington GP. IIRC he pitted six times in that race while Senna stayed out on slicks. I can't remember Senna's grid position but he was well down. the McLaren was a poor car then, but he'd overtaken Prost, who was on pole, before the end of the first lap. Prost being in a car that "a chimpanzee could drive" according to AS. Also a very political driver getting himself into Nige's seat at Williams courtesy of Renault.

Hi Rich, thank you very much for your input, very helpful. I shall look at the link. The only difference I can see in the motors is the larger top bearing on "London". Regards John

Hi RAF96, thank you very much for the reply. Having lubricated overnight I had another go with "London" and she set off like a good un', speed gradually increasing. However, after about ten minutes running flat out, the squeal returned. There is "end float" but I can't see any ball bearings. "Montrose" no joy. A neighbour has a multimeter so I'll ask him to oblige. The thing that concerns me is not being able to get the armature out of "London" as I can with the Duchess. Fortunately things seem to have worked the right way for me in that respect. Once again, thank you for your input. Regards

Good evening all, I've recently acquired a couple of HD Loco's, "Montrose" and "London", both two rail and non runners. The magnets are weak and I realise a remag' will be required. I thought I'd start by cleaning everything and then a little Lub' to the bearings. I had no problem removing the armature from "Montrose" and cleaned it with a plastic tooth pick and cotton buds, added new springs and brushes, a touch of oil on the bearings, reassembled and set about 1mm of "end float". Put power to each brush....nothing. With "London" it briefly burst into life with power to the brushes but with a squealing noise that seemed to be coming from the commutator, there isn't a groove in the chassis top so I can't remove the armature without removing the wheels, which I don't want to do. Is there some "trick" to this? Any help/advice would be very much appreciated. Regards John

I have no electrical skills, but have managed LED's OK so far. First, they are polarity sensitive. No problem in a station lighting situation, but would need a bridge rectifier on a loco to deal with forward/reverse. 12v is fine but if you use 3V you will need a resistor (3.3) with EACH LED. Again, if in a loco a capacitor will prevent flashing. I've put micro LED's in several Springside loco lamps, OK so far. HTH