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Smudge617

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Everything posted by Smudge617

  1. or here https://www.expressmodels.co.uk/catalogue/head-and-tail-lights
  2. I've used all Hornby track on my layout, but I would like to save space by using a 3 way turnout in my goods yard, which Hornby don't produce, (if they do I can't find it). Does anyone know which manufacturer I can use that would be suitable match for Hornby?
  3. https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/blackcattechnology?_trkparms=folent%3Ablackcattechnology|folenttp%3A1&_trksid=p3542580.m47492.l74602
  4. Thanks, I'll remember that one. lots of suggestion, and didn't use any of them I'm afraid. Mr Muscle Drain Cleaner works a treat, it's now all off and I can look at doing the repaint. Thank you Gentleman.
  5. Great, thanks guys, I'll try the caustic soda first.
  6. I have a loco body that I would like to repaint, someone has already done a repaint but it's so obvious, you can see from across the room.(there is an very obvious two tone effect). At least I think it's Acrylic, I can remove it with IPA, but the other half could be Enamel or Acrylic that has been varnished but I can't shift it. Would it be better to paint over, but I'm worried I could get an uneven finish, or try and soak it in a bath of something to remove it and start afresh?
  7. Hi Everyone I have decided that I would like to try and fit a Bachmann loco body onto a Hornby chassis. I have the body from an old split chassis Bachmann that has died, and honestly I would rather not revive it, it never ran well, So my question is simple, before I try and source a Chassis, will it fit? or is there a more preferable chassis I could use? Thanks.
  8. Ok, I dont have anything, that is Accurascale, no freight wagons, nothing, but I have heard a lot of good things about them, hence I have a class 37 on order, like a lot of people have, but i don't bad mouth the company because it hasn't arrived, am I frustrated, yes a little, but it's not Fran & co's fault, their doing the best they can under, let's be honest, exceptional circumstances, to have delivered so far, what they have, goes to show their commitment to us their customers, and as a young company with only 14 employees I think they have done exceptionally well, and should be congratulated on their hard work. And as for the nay sayers, send them my direction, I know a few bogs in the north of Ireland they can disappear into.
  9. I have a lovely Trix loco which I have recently purchased, needs a bit of work, basic service, converting to DCC etc. But runs, and pulls very well, and all wheel pickup on the 8 wheel tender. The problem I have is the noise it makes, it sounds like a bag of nails in a tumble dryer, I appreciate there will always be noise coming from the loco considering it's age and design of the time etc, but I think the motor is vibrating against the body, and turning it into a sound chamber, does anyone know of a means of deadening the sound, some form of insulation perhaps that I could use.?
  10. Thanks Guys. I've managed to get a couple of axles done, now I know how to get the old ones out, but I've used top hat bearings, had to bend the chassis slightly to get the new axle in, risky I know, but 3 axles so far, apart from the axle I broke initially, it's not gone too badly just very slowly and carefully. lol.
  11. Darius, how did you get the original wheels out the axels, I've got several similar wagons and would really like to swop them out for metal ones, but after breaking one axle ( I didn't realise that the chassis was metal) I decided it was perhaps a bad idea.
  12. Interesting, and easy to fit couplings, I'll add them to my list of couplings to try. Could even make my own I think. Definitely on my "To try" list, Thanks,
  13. Well, after seeing all these posts and the various designs that are around I'm not sure which couplings to use, there are so many, all I think with various pros and cons as far as my limited experience goes, So I'm going to leave the DG couplings for the moment and see what works on my layout, and for me, I want to get away from t/l's, and as nearly everything I have is t/l I've ordered several different NEM converters also some Kadee couplings and sprung 3 link, as I have freight wagons from Triang/Hornby/Mainline/Airfix and Bachmann plus some Wrenn, let me see what works, then maybe try the DG coupling.
  14. I do like these couplings. I looked up the gentleman mentioned in the other thread, last electoral roll he was on was in 2014 so might see if there are any model clubs nearby, maybe they can help locate him. But they are ideal for my layout, only have 3 marshalling roads so fitting electromagnets wouldn't be difficult, need some old freight wagons to practice on first, flea bay spares and repair, here I come.
  15. Hi Ian I see they work using electromagnets in the track, I like the idea, would be quite usefull on my layout, not sure if I have the skills to make them work, have to find some old freight wagons that I don't mind making a mess of to practice on I think.
  16. I recently bought this Bachmann J39, but am at a loss trying to work out what type/style of coupling this is, it has the same on the rear of the tender as well, does anyone have an idea please. it's a screw on, so changing it to either a NEM pocket or a Bachmann T/L shouldn't be too difficult, it's more out of curiosity than anything, but I can't remember seeing one like this before.
  17. I answered the OP to the best of my knowledge, I'm not an expert on such things I rarely change any CV on my decoders, so I could only go so far as to how much I actually knew but this forum is for anyone who is in need of help and I have received that help from members across the world to better enjoy their modelling I believe my suggestion was valid, it will do what the originator would like, but not through reducing the voltage to the motor, and I was corrected by another member, but he didn't say which CV would need to be changed on a Laisdcc decoder and used his experience and knowledge to say that on a Zimo decoder, which he is obviously more familiar with, which CV value controlled the Voltage. After that comment, this thread went to hell. All the comments are very interesting, and all irrelevant to the OP. He has a 6 year old son, who likes to run his train set at full speed and Dad, as he's the one who will have to buy a replacement, would like the train to go round the track without flying off and smashing against the nearest wall or floor. So can anyone, suggest which CV needs to be altered on a Laisdcc decoder so the Loco will run at a more sedate speed regardless of his 6 year olds throttle control. Any ideas ?? As an aside, I am aware what most of the more experienced members think about Laisdcc decoders, but, as an entry level decoder, it works, and is probably the most inexpensive "how to" decoder to learn from, I wonder how many of you when you first started in DCC put a expensive decoder in and blew it, because you didn't know what you were doing, anyone??? I would much rather fry a Laisdcc than a ESU. Personally I like them, to the extent I now have 27 loco's fitted with Laisdcc.
  18. https://www.eileensemporium.com/brands/category/p4mm-loco-wagon-coach-fittings-tools
  19. I have 27 Loco's, 18 with Laisdcc, so far, in 2 years I've blown one, and that was me causing a short circuit. and one was faulty which was replaced. So I have to disagree with you. There are two main suppliers (assuming you bought it on eBay) contact them, you can send them back, as they do have a guarantee. If you've bought it from BLT Technical services, Brian will go out of his way to solve the problem. But sounds more like the motor caused the burn out, and overloaded the decoder, if the motors dead second one wont work. I'm assuming when you removed the decoder the 0-4-0 ran on DC ?
  20. I'm not arguing with WIMorrison, I can only go on what the manual says. I don't have a Hornby select, that's one of the reasons why, I can't check that I've written the right value to the right CV. You can reset the decoder (write 4 to CV8) or (4 to CV30) so it returns to factory defaults and start again or can I suggest you try this, its a 3 point (speed) curve I use for my Eurostar. CV3 = 12, CV4 = 12, CV5 = 220, CV6 = 96 If you feel it's still too quick, decrease all the values by 2 or more till your happy.
  21. We are going off question here, and making a simple question difficult. So, simple question, simple answer, Yes, the decoder you have can be programmed to do what you want using a Hornby select. just follow the downloadable manual. https://laisdcc.com/manual/ Page 9. Interesting explanation from WIMorrison, but that's Zimo decoders, this is a direct quote from the Laisdcc Decoder Manual. CV5. This area controls the locomotives TOP volts. Its total range is 0~255 and its default is zero (in this case zero and 255 have the same meaning - not limited). As with CV2 each of the 255 steps is equal to about 1/20th of a volt. As we have 128 speed steps available at our controllers I like to vary this in even numbers. For this “first step in programming", let’s just say our loco runs far faster than it should and set it to 180.
  22. I only use Laisdcc decoders, and yes, you can change the cv to limit a loco's top end, (if using a CD motor like Strathpeffer Junction offer, it's advisable) I can't remember the cv, but Google: Laisdcc Manual and everything you need is included in the document. Laisdcc decoders are NMRA standard so it should work with a Hornby controller
  23. Just to keep everyone updated, as to how this is all progressing (apart from slowly). Power was coming from the chassis via one side of both pony units on the loco, other side, via the tender pickups, so one side was picking up from the tender and the loco, other side just the tender, the red parts are indeed suppressors and removing them from the board isolates the motor. So I can power the loco via the decoder by just using the tender pickups. But I will have to solder directly onto the brushes as todays brushes are too wide to fit in the slot, and, ingeniously I thought, the springs holding the brushes are fitted under the top of the motor.
  24. Just to keep everyone updated, as to how this is all progressing (apart from slowly). Power was coming from the chassis via one side of both pony units on the loco, other side, via the tender pickups, so one side was picking up from the tender and the loco, other side just the tender, the red parts are indeed suppressors and removing them from the board isolates the motor. So I can power the loco via the decoder by just using the tender pickups. But I will have to solder directly onto the brushes as todays brushes are too wide to fit in the slot, and, ingeniously I thought, the springs holding the brushes are fitted under the top of the motor.
  25. Hi Guys I've done a bit more research and found that this is indeed a Trix Model, circa 1969-71, (Trix went bust in '73) The motor is correct for the model, never heard of a Perma motor though, and it has two pickups in the tender connected to the motor which are also correct. But, yes someone has indeed done some "modifications", and was definitely over enthusiastic with the soldering iron. I've found a service sheet of sorts on the TTRCA website for it as well, for anyone who might be interested. http://www.ttrca.co.uk/A2 Peppercorn Servicing.pdf There is a gentleman in Australia who has given me the "How to" to convert it, but I've contacted the seller and am waiting on a reply. UPDATE. Just got a notification now as I write this, got a partial refund, so the model has cost me the same as a second hand 5 plank wagon, I'll take that.
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