Stephen Freeman

Brilliant, that helps a lot.

OK but what configuration of LQs did it replace? I think that there was a home with fixed distant and bracketed arm as per SRS diagram but was there a route indicator as well?

In 4mm scale, the old Colin Waite etched ones were the best in my opinion. However if you are a member of EMGS they do an etch. Not in opinion as good but until I finish the design for my 7mm scale ones (it's a little tedious and demanding of time), I 'll probably do a 4mm scale version too.

Good Afternoon, Just recovering from a house move so not chanced on this before. If you are determined on GWR 2 bolt you have a choice of either C&L or Exactoscale chairs with Modelu slide chairs. Nobody does it ready to lay in volume. Not wishing to put you off, it can be commissioned but that is expensive. Before you do anything else I would suggest downloading and using Templot.

Hi, I have just checked EMGS and S4 - both only list rail in half metre lengths. Not sure who cuts it, but if you are a member you could ask to collect it at a show but don't know if that will work. The problem is with any package over about a yard in length is a no no with Royal Mail.

Wheel-drop. It isn't normally too much of an issue with PECO but depends on the wheels you use. Where it becomes more of a problem is with such as Marcway and handbuilt 0F pointwork. As with a lot of things in life, if you can afford it you can have pointwork built for you but of course it can be a bit more expensive. That is also true for other gauges and scales of course. The problem and solutions for the dreaded wheel-drop has been well explored and covered both in RMweb and Templot Forum

We are moving next week (fingers crossed) not too far it should be added but it should give me a bit more space so I can to try out the 3D printer I bought and put together nearly 12months ago! However, call me old-fashioned but I still prefer Brass or Nickel Silver whenever possible. As for Scale Signal Supply, I have only ever bought from Invertrain but only rarely, so I can't really comment, other than what I bought was good. I do use 3D printed servo mounts when appropriate, so rather than buying them I am looking forward to printing my own.

When adding servos to 2mm scale signals I find a different approach is need for mounting servos. It isn't really praticable to mount the servo on the signal base as it would be a bit on the large size. So to overcome this I have used MERG servo mounts, I couldn't really get on with the small magnet approach to connect the operating wire to the servo, so to make the signal easily demountable I tapped the servo horn 12BA and screwed in a bolt. I then soldered a very short length of bross tube to the wire and slipped it onto the bolt. Nuts are probably optional as you don't want to tighten the tube on the bolt, a sliding fit is what's needed with minimal slop. The signal is located using some brass telescopic square tubing.

Apparently not I'm afraid. If Bill is unable to get to exhibitions (I too find walking and more particularly standing for long periods problematic these days, which is one of the reasons I don't go to exhibitions as either a punter or a seller), then Internet is really the only option. Model shops, if you can find one, are unlikely to stock Wizard parts or anything else that isn't manufactured in volume. Lots of things are only ever made to order, so expecting a one-man band to stock every single thing ready to go is likely to be met by disappointment. Signals are a case in point, it's always best to model a particular prototype signal, there was and is a great variety which cannot be catered for by a one size fits all solution. If you are lucky Andrew (Wizard) may have some ready built simple signals, which he can supply by return of post. Though if you want working lights and motorisation then you perhaps need to be looking elsewhere and be prepared to have to wait for it to be built.

A few photos of previously completed signals by way of illustration

Yes of course they are, though you still have to make them yourself or have them made and can still be improved by the substitution of Modelu finials and if working lights are required then you might consider purchasing some etched brass parts to make hollow posts by which time you might consider it more cost effective to just purchase a suitable fret of etched parts from Wizard.

I still do not understand why Dapol have made the errors, after all it is surely just is easy to get it right as wrong. Not complaining for myself of course as it does not really affect demand for something reasonably accurate.

That should give membership a boost.

I think you would be better off cleaning with IPA after you have finished soldering, that way any flux deposits should be removed and not come back to haunt you afterwards.

Just remember to be careful when working from photos of a signal on a preserved line, it just might not be quite right.