Jump to content

Stephen Freeman

Members
  • Content Count

    764
  • Joined

Community Reputation

294 Good

1 Follower

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.borgrail.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cheshire
  • Interests
    Semaphore Signals, Track and anything to do with the old GWR, scales 4mm and 7mm mainly.Not forgetting Family of course.

Recent Profile Visitors

571 profile views
  1. Wheel-drop. It isn't normally too much of an issue with PECO but depends on the wheels you use. Where it becomes more of a problem is with such as Marcway and handbuilt 0F pointwork. As with a lot of things in life, if you can afford it you can have pointwork built for you but of course it can be a bit more expensive. That is also true for other gauges and scales of course. The problem and solutions for the dreaded wheel-drop has been well explored and covered both in RMweb and Templot Forum
  2. We are moving next week (fingers crossed) not too far it should be added but it should give me a bit more space so I can to try out the 3D printer I bought and put together nearly 12months ago! However, call me old-fashioned but I still prefer Brass or Nickel Silver whenever possible. As for Scale Signal Supply, I have only ever bought from Invertrain but only rarely, so I can't really comment, other than what I bought was good. I do use 3D printed servo mounts when appropriate, so rather than buying them I am looking forward to printing my own.
  3. When adding servos to 2mm scale signals I find a different approach is need for mounting servos. It isn't really praticable to mount the servo on the signal base as it would be a bit on the large size. So to overcome this I have used MERG servo mounts, I couldn't really get on with the small magnet approach to connect the operating wire to the servo, so to make the signal easily demountable I tapped the servo horn 12BA and screwed in a bolt. I then soldered a very short length of bross tube to the wire and slipped it onto the bolt. Nuts are probably optional as you don't want to tighten the tube on the bolt, a sliding fit is what's needed with minimal slop. The signal is located using some brass telescopic square tubing.
  4. Apparently not I'm afraid. If Bill is unable to get to exhibitions (I too find walking and more particularly standing for long periods problematic these days, which is one of the reasons I don't go to exhibitions as either a punter or a seller), then Internet is really the only option. Model shops, if you can find one, are unlikely to stock Wizard parts or anything else that isn't manufactured in volume. Lots of things are only ever made to order, so expecting a one-man band to stock every single thing ready to go is likely to be met by disappointment. Signals are a case in point, it's always best to model a particular prototype signal, there was and is a great variety which cannot be catered for by a one size fits all solution. If you are lucky Andrew (Wizard) may have some ready built simple signals, which he can supply by return of post. Though if you want working lights and motorisation then you perhaps need to be looking elsewhere and be prepared to have to wait for it to be built.
  5. A few photos of previously completed signals by way of illustration
  6. Yes of course they are, though you still have to make them yourself or have them made and can still be improved by the substitution of Modelu finials and if working lights are required then you might consider purchasing some etched brass parts to make hollow posts by which time you might consider it more cost effective to just purchase a suitable fret of etched parts from Wizard.
  7. I still do not understand why Dapol have made the errors, after all it is surely just is easy to get it right as wrong. Not complaining for myself of course as it does not really affect demand for something reasonably accurate.
  8. I think you would be better off cleaning with IPA after you have finished soldering, that way any flux deposits should be removed and not come back to haunt you afterwards.
  9. Just remember to be careful when working from photos of a signal on a preserved line, it just might not be quite right.
  10. Just a couple of points. AFAIK the back blinders on GWR/WR signals should be black (easily rectified of course), secondly I also much prefer Ralph's (Palatine Models) Ground Signals.As they are all Nickel Silver etches, they are much easier to put together.
  11. I use Bright Components for LEDs, some tricky soldering is involved with the very smallest of course.
  12. I know and indeed have books covering most of the Companies, acquired over the years of building signals etc.
  13. Thats because as I understood it, Exactoscale's configuration of the common crossing differs due to production requirements of their kits. As I don't use the kits myself I follow the Templot positioning on this as I think it is more prototypical..
  14. Jim, Wrong author, it was by Adrian Vaughan. Pretty sure it is out of print but secondhand copies do become available from time to time. The Dapol ones are not brilliant in my opinion (of course you might expect me to say that), there are quite a few glaringly obvious shortcomings, most of which have been identified in other threads. If you want something that is an accurate portrayal of a prototype you really only have two choices, make it yourself or pay somebody to make it for you.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.