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Daddyman

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  1. Hello If I understand correctly, one orders these from [email protected] Is that right? Does anyone have prices? I'm interested in a D.404. Many thanks.
  2. I wouldn't trust Fox on diesel nameplate size. Their Saltire Society ones were far too short compared to another manufacturer's, and photos clearly showed Fox were wrong. I tried to tell Fox but as usual when he makes a mistake, he wasn't having any of it, even in the face of photographic evidence. Looking at photos of the real thing, the small transfers look closer to the original. But did the real loco always have the same size plates?
  3. Someone should send this thread to Antex!
  4. They are fragile, aren't they, Antex? My current one has lasted a couple of years, but for a long time I only got 6 months or so out of them. Problem is, I'm invested in the bits, with lots of spares in stock, and they're easy to get hold of. I resorted to buying another as a spare in case this one fails - then at least I can solder a replacement element into the one that fails; I got a TC series for £35 (minus the "station" that it plugs into) from a company called CPC, who seemed to be the cheapest; if anyone is thinking of going down this route, make sure you check the number of pins in the iron matches that in the station. What manufacturer have you gone with for your replacement, Jonathan?
  5. You can do a lot more than compare the on-paper specification: the Bachmann models of the 37 and 55 have been off-paper for years and the 37 at least is a shocker; pre-production models of the Accurascale 55 have been on show for some time. True, there's no pre-production model of the Accurascale 37 (or did I miss that too?!), but the Bachmann model hardly set a high bar - undersize cab-front windows with no grommets, ruining the head-on look; over-wide bogies with underfed brake cylinders; gash where the nose meets the bodyside; no detail around the fuel tanks.
  6. Good idea. I did consider this, but was worried about doing this with an (to me) untested manufacturer's paint finish: masking tape anywhere near a Bachmann product, for example, would remove lining, and I was loath to repaint the orange stripe.
  7. I've only even seen MGRHooper make polite and cogent points about flawed models. If anything, she's polite to a fault - as evinced by the fact that she's bothered answering your increasingly hostile posts. If those like her who hold manufacturers to account (something Andy Y in an interview with Model Rail years ago said was a valid function of the site*) get shouted off the site by people who just want to say how much they like something, or how many they're going to buy, RMWeb will end up a much poorer place. As she says, choose to ignore her posts if you don't like them. *I hope I'm not misrepresenting his words - it was a long time ago.
  8. I took delivery of one of these yesterday; I've had some "issues": 1. Both front-end handrails were broken at the same point straight from the box. 2. Before I ran the loco I tested the swing of the bogies; one wouldn't turn. On examination I found two hard pieces of flash on the top of one bogie sideframe, which was interfering with the turn (and had scrubbed paint off a visible part of the underframe). 3. One of the axlebox covers fell out before the loco had travelled a metre. These covers are very poor anyway, as when play is taken up in the axles, the covers (even when they don't detach themselves) are pushed out well proud of the bogie sides, which looks daft, and defeats the object (the object presumably being that they look realistic) . 5. Another pipe from I know not where dropped out in the first couple of metres. 6. Buffer fell out just as the loco made it to 2 metres. 7. I took the body off to replace the air dam at one end with the hole-less version. The cab steps seemed to be glued to both the chassis and the body, and as well as preventing the body coming off, it meant that on separation some were attached to the body and some to the chassis. Either way, the flexing of the rubbery handrails that is necessary to get the underframe past them removes most of the white paint from them. 8. Several of the grilles hadn't been stuck down properly at all corners, and have a tendency to catch in one's fingerprints during handling. 9. One bogie dropped to bits while I was changing the air dam - the gear-tower securing piece came unclipped. This is presumably a result of having to pull too hard to separate the body and underframe, which were effectively glued together (see 5 above). In summary: one axlebox cover missing, paint rubbed off the underframe, broken handrails, paint come off rubbery cab-step handrails, grilles lifting, bogie disintegrated - this after about 30 minutes. To quote A Million Ways to Die in the West, "Wow! That went south sooo fast!" All of this is easy to fix for a modeller (though I'd rather not have to be trying to slither superglue underneath the grilles), but I pity the poor box-opener who would be forced to send the loco back. With all this, I haven't even had chance to think about whether it looks like a 66 or not!
  9. I was going to suggest looking at captions in the Meskell book - had forgotten he did the thing at the back mentioned by 03060. Another source, but later, is Michael Rhodes and Paul Shannon, Freight Only, Vol.3: Wales and Scotland (Silver Link Publishing, 1988), which has a list of all freight services from August 1988 for both Inverness and the WHL. There are substantial differences in times and reporting codes from those listed for 1987 above.
  10. Does anyone have any idea of a source of a commemorative bell for one of these? Thanks!
  11. They're good, Jonathan. I wouldn't be without one. Would close-up photos help, or is it that you need to play around with one? Having said that, they're not much use in the D&S situation, as the bit that needs to be supported by the tool - the body side, with its hinge holes or top lights - cannot be as the too would flatten the turn-under (which should already have been formed). I tend not to try to bend these longitudinal strips on D&S or Connoisseur carriages, but cut them off instead and then solder them to the sides at the required angle - a lot less stressful when you're paying £60-100 for a 4-wheeler on ebay...
  12. Only just seen this announcement! Have ordered two. Problem is, there's little available to Accurascale standards to run with these: it's going to show up the current Mk1s, Mk3 sleepers, TTAs, and, without doubt, the new ETHEL ... ... so I'm afraid you're going to have to do all of those too, Accurascale, as you seem to be the only people that can get things right.
  13. No, not at all - or at least not in my experience. I tried blackening a few years ago after reading Dave's thread, but what I didn't like about it was that it resists solder (that's why it's useful as a coating for parts that you don't want to gum up with solder - one side of valve gear components, for example). This means that if you'e making ropy 90s kits as I often am - and by the looks of it, Dave is too - and the primer reveals a problem, it's a major PITA to un-solder or re-solder anything; the blackening solution makes a horrible mess when heated. I suppose a counter argument is that it's just as hard to un-solder or de-solder things once they've been etching primed, which is true, but there was just something really nasty about the goo that resulted from heated blackening solution. I've never gone back to it. Apart from that issue, I found that it simply wasn't effective: edges treated with blackening solution were just as likely to scuff as those without - though admittedly I could have been doing something wrong. But then on the other hand, I don't know of a professional painter that recommends blackening as part of the preparation of a model for painting. Are there any? One last thing: if no blackening is happening, don't be tempted to leave things in for longer and longer - I had a cab roof end up with rivulets etched into it...
  14. Yippee! Please make sure I'm not forgotten off the list this time, Mike!
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