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Daddyman

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  1. What about a J6 (if there's such a thing) or K2 from LRM? They certainly sell castings for the NER stuff, so may do for GN too.
  2. Very nice but you've lost it on the face slightly - the door is not right, and that's where all the character comes from. Could you use a scrap N2 or A3 body? I'm not sure what size all of those boilers are. And the s.box door handles are b. awful! Easy to make your own, which are much finer:
  3. Thanks, Mike. Just to be clear, when you say work, you mean they make frame cut-outs unnecessary?
  4. How does that work with frame cutouts, Mike? I'd rather avoid them, and Arthur may want to too, given that he's speaking about narrowing the frames as per the prototype.
  5. It's worth asking on the Scalefour site, Arthur - Dave Bradwell (and others) will be only to happy to give you ideas. I'll look on with interest as I'm scratchbuilding one of these next. I'd planned to use LRM radial trucks, but hadn't really got much further than that. The 0-6-2 idea sounds a good one.
  6. That's some very nice teak! You've had the courage to keep the grain so subtle that it's almost not apparent. Brilliant!
  7. I did get one of these off Dan in 2017. My dad contacted him and Dan was very keen to see it behind my model of Aerolite, and asked us to send a photo when it was done. It's true that the etch was slightly damaged - there was a slight roughness in one place on the body side, and one of the internal partitions had the panel detail imperfectly rendered, but neither flaw is visible on the finished model. At the risk of seeming sadistic, here's a photo...
  8. Interesting, but I suspect the bigger issue is the one that least attention is being paid to: the cab front windows - more specifically the frames. It's there, I suspect, where a real [email protected]#jan has been made of this model....
  9. I'd buy the whole kit while you're on the phone to Dave if I were you - there's no evidence that OR have paid attention to any of the constructive criticism on here, and indeed they've made it clear that they've had enough of experts with their inconvenient facts. The latest photos show no changes to the the cabside windows, brakes or chassis outline, but they do show OR have added an all-new error: underfed tender axleboxes and springs.
  10. Hear, hear! I clicked "like" and then thought, "hang on, I don't actually know if I like it or not - I can't see anything!"
  11. I asked for suggestions on glazing on the scalefour forum recently, and got some interesting replies: https://www.scalefour.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=7175 (I think this is open to non-members.)
  12. That's the issue I had too. Blown element, apparently. But as said, the issue seems to have been fixed, and Antex were helpful. But I like the sound of yours - not the price tag though... On the other hand, I think I've finally run out of kits to buy: I had acute spenditis the other day and couldn't find anything... Milliput is a pain to mix, yes, and takes even longer when you're mixing in water. But worth it in the end...
  13. I was going through them at the same rate, but I must say I found Antex helpful when I contacted them. And - touch wood - I haven't had any problems since I switched to the six-pin version of the TC. Maybe the old 5-pin version was the dodgy one. Sod's law that I have now bought a spare so as to be able to make any necessary repairs.... If it's any help, Ronseal with Precision matting agent airbrushed is the only reliable matt varnish I've ever used - courtesy of Ian Rathbone. I never got on with Squadron - found it dried in the tube. I'd always prefer Miliput Superfi
  14. The boiler top and the green area of the smoke deflectors are very well done indeed - very convincing. Powders, I suppose?
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