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  1. The wagon strapping might work. But you could also make your own straps: solder a piece of 0.6 wire on to something rigid (15 thou will do at a push, but a piece of PCB is better); file it flat, unsolder, flip it over, solder again, and file the opposite side flat. You can also use the Vernier, knowing the depth of your PCB, to judge when you have filed it to 5 thou (0.15mm?), but I often do the last bit with the wire unsoldered from the backing. In that case, though, you have to be careful to only use the file one way; if you go backwards and forwards you'll crumple the wire and have to start
  2. There was a lot of that going on - you'll have seen the pictures of the hole flame cut out of (at least) the LHS lower cab side for the cab-to-shore radio. Photo of the equipment - or at least the brackets - if anyone wants to model it!
  3. My pleasure, Chas! I think you can use the square file, yes. I often do when the triangular file goes missing! (It's a "reserved occupation" tool at my house, so should always be on the window sill - but often isn't...) Scrap brass strip might work, but I suspect it will be too thick, given that most kits are etched in at least 10 thou; it could also be that any spare fret is too wide. The Hobby Holidays stuff is 4 thou by 0.62 (two inches), which looks about right. The ones in the photo are actually supplied in the C16 kit and are half-etched. I can't se
  4. Scratchbuilding the side sheet is is a good idea, John - or just go slow and steady; you have done harder jobs on your builds; I don't think you have anything to be afraid of! Like you, I copied the kit part first when I did it myself. If you have a go, the modified vertical part of the cab side should be 8.5mm-ish wide. The cab sides go on the outside edges of the floor - that is, on the footplate. A photo here to confirm the shorter cab handrail is not vertical - took me ages to work out the trigonometry of that!
  5. Also, if you're getting to the cab, you need to change the shape of the RH cab side sheet: none of the Derwenthaugh locos had the shape supplied in the kit: I have photos of 41, 42 and 48 with the shape shown below (the kit is correct for the other side): In this photo you can just see there's a hinged flap, shaped like the other cab side, which can be positioned to close off the gap; but it was invariably left open. The other side of the cab was not and is still today not used: the doorway is blocked up with planks and used as a coal bunker. So the alteration to the apertur
  6. Thanks, Mike - possibly just me being slow that day. John, there are lots of photos of these if you look on the internet. Google something like "Derwenthaugh kitson" or "Consett kitson" or "NCB loco Derwenthaugh/Consett" and you'll find a few. I squared off the bufferbeams on mine, and changed the shape of the valance ends too. Here are the buffer beams: I also knocked this up for the safety valve cover. I wanted to try to imitate the rust-nibbled edges of the boiler clothing so made the circle in the tube very rough: You'll see
  7. OK, so here goes. These sketches give an overview - ask if anything's not clear: Here's a photo of the front end. It's very hard to get a clear shot - hence the sketches above. This is the connection at the cab, referred to in the sketches. This is a feature of C15s and C16s - not sure if it applies to other tank engines. I can't get this one to focus very well, sorry. Here are some work-in-progress photos. First up is the "nicking" of the 0.9 tube for the corner pieces. The triangular file is probably more like 60 degrees
  8. When you come to the cab, John, I seem to remember there's something to be aware of (Mike may be able to confirm): if I remember correctly, the cab front sits on top of the floor, whereas the cab rear will sit on the footplate, so needs to be soldered to the rear edge of the cab floor, not on top of it. It might be obvious, but I seem to remember it caused me some puzzling as the instructions simply say to fit both parts to the floor.
  9. That's not suitable, no, Chas. It's for an A3, and actually goes on the front of the loco - between the curved frame extensions below the smokebox door / above the buffer beam, and gives access to the inside motion from the front. My advice would be to get the loco done and go back to the inside motion later if you feel the need. When your small bore tube arrives (or before) I'll post some step-by-step photos of how I do the valance-side vacuum pipes if you and Jon wish.
  10. I'll try to do better, Chas! Not part of it, no - I've been two years clean from Wright Writes: I chose "ignore topic" two years ago this January gone, and have never looked back. What a wonderful way of looking at it! For me it's that life is transient, and modelling allows us to hold on to things in a way that mere memory doesn't. When I look at, say, my D20, all my childhood memories of September evenings walks on the formation of the Berwick, Kelso and St Boswell's near Carham congregate around the model and tempus stops fugitting for a little while (irony al
  11. I know what you mean, but I dispute the use of the word "duplicate". The dictionary (well, Google) defines this as "exactly like something else, especially through having been copied" and "one of two or more identical things" [my emphasis in both cases]. What I want in a model of a Class 25 is precisely not a duplicate, since I don't want anything which is exactly the same as or identical to the existing / imminent models; I want something that is more than "near enough" or "that'll do, it's almost right". I now have my wish, and those that want the "near enough" model have theirs. Everybody w
  12. Elegance? It was still an important consideration when these locos were built. Function is another reason: apologies for showing this again Jol:
  13. I don't get your point here, sorry: I've argued all along that BR have a design already there to use when rebodying the D20 tenders, and that that design is the one used on the GC rebuild. It's precisely the unwillingness to change the design that leads to the handrail bodge at the front of the D20 tenders. Re widths, the 7'10" body of the GC rebuild still fits on the 8' platform of a D20 tender. What clinches it for me is the G/S (not NER) details on the back of these rebuilt (D20) tenders.
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