28ten

Well done Adrian! its good to see another S7 layout in the challenge.

I have checked my sources there is no definite confirmation that the ends were red with the later lettering style. however from the photos I have you do need to add some black on the framing as with the covered wagon. I have lost your email so i cant send you the details if pm me with it i can send them to you

I have a painting diagram somewhere I'll did it out later

Jazz i was wondering where you had got to :icon_wave: I like the Cambrian wagon, very nice. have you thought of a Cambrian brake van to go with it? they were quite colourful with red ends.

Woohoo it works

i think your modern is very different from mine!! to be honest I don't know. I have just had a look at the exactoscale, what a shame they dont do them in S7

which is the large white box!!!

I quite like IKB kits, but they are getting a bit long in the tooth, the panneling on some of them is a little variable in width which can make lining an adventure!!

they should have a taper like this you can see in that photo how much more I should remove from the wheel center. its one of those things, once you know about it it bugs you!

Im glad its visible! i could take a little more off without compromising the wheel. it probably won't cost that much to get a batch of CNC axles done as they are bugging me now!

i have been unhappy with the back of the Slaters wheels as they are nothing like the real thing, so I chucked a pair of S7 wheels in the soft jaw and took 16 thou off the back of the wheel center. I think it is an mprovementthey look more three dimensional. next thing is the axles......

you may well find that once you have opened the box, 4mm will go out of the window! there is something about genies and bottles....

Very nice, have you seen these link ? nice bicycles as well:lol:

if the fit is good it should just be a gentle push-fit into the recess. anything more and the wheel center could distort, the loctite is more than sufficient to retain the center.

The C3 is a nice size that can be lifted by two people, ideal for up to gauge one. and you obviously have the skill to tweak it, these two sites might be helpful. mini lathe Gadget builder there are also come cnc conversions out there if you fancy that!!!

Only a Sieg C3 , but it has been tweaked with roller bearings, the underside of the bed has been milled, gibs replaced etc etc.... I think DRO's are next addition, but its not a cheap proposition the display unit is ??170, then there is the scales to add to that, so I think horizontal digital scales might be a more reasonable idea, the whole lot should come in under ??100 I couldn't get the ML7 into my current space, and in fairness the C3 does everything I need.

Lots of pictures here, they make more sense than my ramblings, so I will just stick to a few comments for each one, I must stress this is not the perfect/best way of tackling this job, but it works for me with the tools I have. For those who are interested I used to have a Myford ML7 with DROs and I really miss them, they are especially useful for this sort of job. If you have any questions fire away. The essential measuring tools, I have two 2-3 inch micrometers to save adjusting them for dimensions. both were bought off ebay for under a tenner. you can also see my working drawing prepared in 'crap-o-cad' All tools prepared adjusted for height and ready Loctite for attaching the tyre to the rim, I apply a small amount to the scrap piece before applying it to the rim with a cocktail stick as I don't want any foreign matter entering the bottle These diamond sticks are handy if you need to quickly hone a tool I use a 2inch DTI to measure the cross slide travel, this is very accurate and you don't have to worry about backlash. Really a poor mans DRO The center glued into the 'tyre', if you have bored accurately this is gentle push fit, do not use force the wheel will distort The bar is turned to the OD of the flange in this case 1.450" The tread is then cut in, I don't bother with the taper as it is very slight and the form tool will remove the excess to make the taper. I used a parting tool to turn a recess to clear the back of the form tool, otherwise the form tool is cutting the waste from the back of the tread, the form tool shot should make this clear. The form tool ready to cut, I line this up with the face of the tyre and move it .193" inwards this gives the correct tyre width for GWR locos of .133" Everything is locked up, the tread is blued with a felt tip and the form tool fed in firmly but slowly, the work is rotating at 40rpm, even then there is a small amount of chatter present. The tread is formed and given a light polish, ready for parting off Job done, just the rear of the wheel to be cleaned after parting. there is a little extra on the top flange but this will come off in the final polish when it's mounted on the axles. Only three more to do:lol:

Buckjumper/3link thank you, I have never tried bluetack on a cocktail stick, so I will give that a go on a dry run, one thing is for sure, I am glad I made the floor and backplate removable! but it's still a pig of a job. I have CGW sevenmill plates on order, so there is the driver warning sign to go in the cab, not that anybody will see it! I am actually thinking of butchering the firebox doors so they are open, at least then when I get round to DCC a flickering fire might show some of the detail! I have never tried the johnsons kleer method, am I missing something?!

I just think you find your own way and write what you are comfortable with. I just chunter about the most recent workbench activity, but what is noticeable is that the same people keep coming back. I think with the blog you tend to follow people more than topics, whereas with threads this is reversed. Feel free to blog about BR coaching stock, real or model, the Mk2 build was really informative.

I have been chasing small jobs on the chassis and there isnt that much left to do, the problem at the moment is fixing the lost was springs under the hornblocks as i can't solder them as I need to drop the axles out, so I might have to make up some method of screwing them in place. the brake gear will just drop out when the pivot pins are removed, (in the photos they have yet to be trimmed to length) and a drop of superglue will hold them in place when the final assembly takes place. I have a similar problem with the cab, I want to solder the roof in place (the floor is removeable0, but it will be very hard to glaze the cab then! I could use real glass and mask it for painting which might be the best solution. Any bright ideas are welcome...... the photos are self explanatory, but thedo show some of the extra details on the top of the tanks Next job is to finish the wheels and do a test fit, then I can start a snag list of the final parts to be fitted. the plates won't arrive for a month or so.

I never noticed! I will go and check, mind you, I will never need a second V2. The trouble is that I know I could make a better job of it now....

as I said before so ugly, but I love it

It's actually an IKB kit. I have an unmade Colin Waite kit as well! I didn't know as much about GW coaching 20 years ago so there are quite a few errors. There are a couple of other Colin Waite kits lurking in the todo pile!

Some of the tilt wagons had a patent rail system for the tarpaulin, but this was removed from most of them. Many of them ran without and form of handbrake, which saves another chore!