28ten

Whilst sorting out the photo albums I found these, they are all pre 1906 (:icon_wave: Buckjumper, Mikkel) stock any questions fire away The first two wagons are from WEP kits modified with sprung axleguards Something Broad Gauge - a tilt wagon from a BGS kit An E26 from CPL side with slaters bogies, the rest is scratchbuilt Finally that rarest of things a finished project!! this coach is 20 years old I didn't know about the inner brown lining on early GWR coaching then, even if I had, I lack the lining skill.

Smokebox, good suggestion, i should have mentioned it, but I am only an amateur bodger! Pugsley the saddle lock is not standard, but it is dead easy to do, I can take a pic if you like. Other mods are replace the carriage gibs and shim it rather than use the 'grub screw' method better still are tapered gibs, but i haven't got round to that yet. the bed has been checked and milled to ensure it is square and a consistent depth, on some older machined the bed is bowed, any problems here and you will never achieve good results. the other gibs have been straightened and lapped, and again simple locks fitted. on a lathe this size you really do need to be able to lock each axis depending on the operaton you are conducting, it makes an imense difference to the rigidity and accuracy. If you are going for a QCTP I wouldn't recommend the standard one, while it does the job it is not that rigid. there are lots of good tweaks Here I will take a couple of quick shots later. i have also picked up some nice micrometers off ebay for under a tenner, currently I am on the look out for a nice height gauge. A mill will be arriving at some point as it opens up much more possibilities, the only problem is that it all takes time away from actually building anything! but then as long as i am enjoying myself what does it matter?

Adrian, it was what I had lying about and it was about the right diameter! I do find boring cast iron easier on these small lathes as well. Pugsley, do you have a saddle lock fitted? If there is any movement in the gibs it will cause terrible chatter. You can also get parting tools with tct inserts and they are quite handy.I am no expert but a firm steady feed works best for me when parting off. What you want to avoid is the tool digging into the work as it will break the blade or worse. Really It is a question of practice and learning the limitations of the machine. I was used to an ml7, so I have had to learn to be a little more gentle with this machine! Even so now it has been tweaked it is capable of accurate work.

Thank you Dave, I have seen it and it has been most useful, the only thing is that being a preserved loco it is not entirely 'correct'

I got a little fed up of soldering small pipe clip so I thought I would turn to a rescue job on the lathe for some relaxation. I intend to use AGH wheels on this model, and indeed I turned a set up, but in my haste I made the tyre treads too narrow :icon_frustrated::icon_redface: which is my fault for doing precision work late at night. I wont go into full detail of the process but the main concern is to maintain concentricity of the tyre and wheel, fortunatly the axle hole in the casting is about .181" which is under the .187" of the axle, so I have a little bit of leeway to make a corrction if it is not perfect. Anyway the first stage is to chuck up some stock to make an arbour to mount the casting on so I could remove the tread, sorry no action pics. but this gives an idea. when it is in the chuck the casting is held in place by a running mandrel, held in place with a live center so the casting is held firmly and without distorting the spokes. even so light cuts are the order of the day. it this leaves four castings like this Now to make the new tyres, first a suitable piece of cast iron was chucked up and faced/trued and then drilled 13mm This allows enough clearance for the boring tool, this is a slightly blured shot of the boring process. it is not the ideal setup as the tool has a large overhang making accurate boring impossible, but that doesnt matter at this stage as it is just being roughed out once it was within about 60 thou of bore to fit the castings I retracted the boring tool so that the final few passes would be accurate. This is the situation before retracting the tool Finally bore out to a good fit on the casting, it is important that the fit is snug but not tight if it is too tight the casting will distort when fitting.this shot shows the casting ready for final fitting. Next stage will be to make the tread and part off each wheel.....probably after the weekend I shall return to the pipework tomorrow!

I have the GW press and it is great, but as you say it is a pain to setup. I find it most useful, when scratchbuilding, GWR tenders are doddle:lol: I still use a Leaky rivet press that is over 25 years old for a lot of my stuff

I can do, i would be surprised if it is less than 120 hours, the Class B tank took 120 + and I would like half a dozen more ! In theory if I average 2 hours a night it should take two months. one thing with MMP you don't need to super detail the kit!

Thanks chaps, picking up on Kentons comment, I think it is a bit of a fallacy that 7mm makes detailing easier, you end up putting smaller parts 'because you can' rather than because you can see them! It's certainly not for the unsteady hand. I contemplated moving to 1/32 but I realised that I would want to add even more detail. For those that are interested next up should be an MMP BG, yet more tiny details! But at least it's built into the kit so it is fairly straightforward.

Quick progress report, these fiddly jobs are taking an age and I have added extra detail such as cable brackets and stand offs, anyway its late so here we go cables along the footplate in reality these were very untidy but on a model it looks awful so I have gone for a compromise... Some work on the battery box, the gusset behind the bufferbeam is from scrap etch but it was handy to hang the battery box from Overall looking like a 14xx, well 1447 as it is now There is a lot of piping on top of the tank but unfortunatly very few prototype pictures show it clearly The front buffer beam is coming together, it needs a good clean though

Cracking job:icon_thumbsup2: I do think that a complicated "good kit' goes together quicker than a bad 'simple kit'. the hairstyle looks fine to me, proper haircut, but I do agree with Dan, the trousers could do with a little weathering I shall be hunting out the MOK stand at Reading......

Goodness, what a helpful comment :icon_rolleyes:

Weight distribution, as you probably know 0-4-2s and 0-4-4s are a bit of a pig in that respect as i said it's not insurmountable with some form of springing, it would take more experimentation. I think the key is much stiffer springing on the trailing axle.

Ill see what i can do later. But initially I used springing, but I reverted to the rocking axle :icon_wow: supplied in the kit, mainly because I was finding it very hard to balance the loco, and I had a secondary problem of removing the trailing wheelset. Both problems are solveable but in the end I went with the easiest solution, bearing in mind I also intend to use a split axle for the trailing wheelset, in the hope that it will improve performance.

They use cz120 brass which has contains a small amount of lead to make engravine easier, you will find it has totally different properties to the brass in etched kits

Rather you than me! Didn't Tom Mallard do a 14xx?

Working motion would make all the difference! Is the boiler wrapper a half etch? Of do the rivets need to be formed?

If slowly! I have just ordering the number plates, and I might order a Western set at the same :D you never know! Horsetan if you haven't seen them there is a superb set of 14xx photos here fotopic more detail than you can shake a stick at

Very nice. How visible is the motion?

Nothing very exciting, just those PITA jobs that make or break the final model. the first shot shows the pipe run under the footplate along the valance, I included this because it shows the little brass spacer screwed to the body mounting, this is to save the ATC and steam heat pipes from being damage when resting the model on the bench, the steps are sufficient at the rear, the other thing that might be of interest is the round nose pliers used for forming the bends in the pipes, they make the job easier and cause much less damage to the pipes The second shot shows the steam heat which is formed around the back or the auto gear (which is a very handy casting from Peter roles)the vac pipe is vet to be soldered which is why it looks slightly drunken next tob is a clean up with soapy water and on with the auto gear tomorrow..

Yes that turning does look rough, but as long as you can't feel anything they will ok. You quite often get that with production turning where the tool moves much faster

The CSB is 28thou. You only get lightbox mode if the original image is larger than 640px (I think) so I may start uploading at a higher resolution TBH I'm still feeling my way about with it

What the attraction of going cross eyed on small details you could ignore in 4mm Nice bit of piping BTW Scalehardware delivery is very quick isn't it

I have always liked londons railways, paddington I'd a fasinating place, I have collected quite a few sources over the years, it must have been an incredible place at the height of the Edwardian era, so much modelling potential. BTW I like your ideas for small layouts.

I have never used Roller bearings, try them and let us know! You will need to be accurate with tha axle diameter if you turn them down, also make sure they are concentric. Tell us what the plan is!!

Yes, Well spotted, there should be boiler bands! I prefer to add them at the painting stage, using a thin waterslide cut into a strip.