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Pete the Elaner

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Everything posted by Pete the Elaner

  1. Slightly off topic (but we will get back), but this highlights a real advantage of DCC: Suppose you have 2 favourite older locos: 1 runs nicely with feedback but rather poorly without it. The other is of a type which has a habit of overheating when you run it under feedback. Which DC controller would you use or would you use cab control & switch between controllers? You could very easily use the wrong controller in error. With DCC, the decoder controls the motor & since each loco has a decoder, it is able to provide the appropriate control to the motor. This can be adjusted by the operator, but you need a DCC system to make the adjustment. But we were talking about DC: A feedback controller can damage a DCC decoder. But the decoder controls the motor itself, not the layout controller. This can use a smooth DC signal from the layout controller to provide feedback control of the motor. That's quite neat.
  2. Forwards on DCC but backwards on analogue: DCC takes an alternating signal & deals with it so if wired correctly, the decoder knows which way is forward. With DC, positive is the right hand running rail, so when running forward, the right hand side should be fed from the red wire, assuming of course the motor is not wired backwards too. When fitting a decoder to a correctly wired loco (& I have seen some done wrong), feed the red pickup to the red wire on the decoder & the orange wire goes to this connection on the motor. Likewise the black pickup wire goes to the black decoder wire & the grey decoder connection goes to where black was connected to the motor. Most wrong combinations will cause either DCC or DC to be reversed, or maybe both. DCC can be corrected by changing a setting. Putting DC right is a solder job.
  3. CV is a Configuration Variable. As its name suggests, it can be turned on or off. All decoders should work on DC. Some of the older ones don't. As has been mentioned, decoders need a couple of extra volts before they will respond. This can be annoying, but is actually quite useful to get across a poor joint between wheel & track which causes a DC loco to stall when it should crawl. If decoders work on DC, why would you turn this off? To be snobby about not allowing your locos to run on DC?? Well maybe some do but there is a good reason: Some (not all) do unwanted things with DC enabled. When reading CVs from the programming track, power is restored in very short bursts to the main layout in between each CV read in. Some (but not all) of my locos which have DC enabled shuffle along the track slightly. I have also seen a fitted loco bought from a show which responded the opposite way to the DC setting. When DC was enabled, it did not work on DC. With it disabled, it worked fine. The problem is that you need a DC system to switch DC running on & off. If a DC users buys a fitted loco, it may already be switched off. The only options are to get a friend/shop to switch it on, or remove the decoder.
  4. Exactly. The way it was presented encourages the listener to assume testing in full service, which was impossible.
  5. 0.26 "It has been undergoing trials in the Cleveland area" Cleveland didn't get OLE until about 5 years after the P train was withdrawn. The media coverage of this project shows how biased the media can be, but you only get to understand this by knowing more details than what makes it into the press.
  6. A smoke generator is indeed a gimmick, but so is sound & loike it or not, there are a lot of modellers using DCC sound. A motor is a gimmick too I guess. Model railways themselves are nothing more than expensive toys if we're really honest. But why would you remove the smoke generator? Just don't bother filling it up. I've seen Hornby's video of a prototype smoke-fitted Flying Scotsman. The way it puffs in time with the exhaust beat is a vast improvement from the constant dribble of oily smoke from their earlier unit of around 40 years ago. I'm just looking at my desktop pic of 6201 pulling a train away from Carlisle. Its heading into a cloud of its own steam with small clouds around the cylinders & drain cocks with a little smoke from the chimney. It would seem a little life-less without them. I know models are not quite at this level of realism yet, but you don't jump there by not bothering; you push the bar up incrementally.
  7. Just a guess but it may depend on when the particular leg of the journey begins/ends? If it starts or finishes at night then night lighting is chosen?
  8. I haven't bought any Cambrians for a while. I don't remember them being particularly bad, but I do remember Parkside's being much better: crisper moulding with less flash to cut away, they fir a little better & they came with a decent set of wheels.
  9. does not seem to be peco-uk.com. When I mtr to it (mtr is a linux traceroute tool), it resolves this as myshopify.com. PInging myshopify.com resolves It is quite normal to have a host with 2 or more IP addresses. mtr to peco-uk.com ends up at host-81-88-63-46.dedicatedserver, whatever that is. I wonder if Peco are migrating their server & are just waiting for DNS to be updated?
  10. I am really not sure about that bit at all. I understood that spares needed to be built when required, which would account for its long periods out of service after each failure. It was also a prototype, so they would not necessarily want to use like for like components; they would often want to re-design them. It was re-built under BR. The Turbomotive was Stanier's experiment but he was not CME of BR. As for the original question of why no high pressure steam turbines: They were slightly different eras. Fury & Hush Hush were built in the late 20s. By the time it was decided to build 6202 as a turbine, the conclusion drawn from Fury was that its high pressure boiler required too much maintenance to be worthwhile.
  11. Wrong way round. A 100ohm speaker won't damage a new decoder. It will just be too quiet to hear easily. A 4ohm speaker will damage a Loksound v3/v3.5.
  12. The CDU is not there to overcome volt drop over a longer wire (although it does help with this). A solenoid is an inductor, which opposes change of current. A transformer is also an inductor, so while it supplies the voltage, it also tries to oppose the change of current. This causes it to throw the motor a little softly. A capacitor does the opposite: it discharges as fast as possible. This is what gives CDUs their kick rather than a more tired throw. Another benefit of the CDU is that after the initial kick, the residual current is very low. This not only prevents damage to the point motor if the switch is left closed, but it reduces the arc created when the switch is opened after use, so if you are using small switches, it makes them last a lot longer. If you are using stud & probe, they stay cleaner. The arcing is created by the rapidly collapsing magnetic field around the motor, which generates a voltage.
  13. The Wills Craftsman kits are really just a set of scratchbuilding components with plans. Very rewarding if that is what you want, but a bit overwhelming if you expect a kit of ready cut walls which you can stick together.
  14. Yes, something like that. I considered a complete model to be too steep a learning curve. When I mention 3d printing to some & they light up then respond "could you make me a wagon" I decline because it would take me months of dedication to get to that level & I wouldn't even be prepared to learn it for something I wanted myself. I started off with window frames, which are easy to me now but challenging at first. I have since got a little more adventurous: Replacement axle box covers for my Hattons class 66. MW jumper boxes for class 86/0, 86/3, 86/4 & 87. LNWR chimney stacks (as an example, these took 12 hours to design then a further 8 hours to make the brickwork a little deeper) Door/porchway Coach seating 70s style station lamps Once I had designed a couple of things, it simply became another building method to enable me to build something closer to what I actually wanted rather than make do with something which was not quite right.
  15. When I first heard about 3d printing, all I saw was complete models designed & printed. This is not at all how I use it. I wanted to make some buildings from scratch but ready made window frames were not right for what I wanted. I was shown how to cur frames from styrene but they looked inconsistent, so I binned the scratchbuilding for the time being. I found 3d printing was great for consistently making small quantities of something. Window frames were a good starting point for 3d design too. The walls & roof of my buildings are still cut from plastic with a scalpel.
  16. Is it possible to lock a v4 in this way? I thought the whole point of the Loksound Select was to lock it: the Select's specs are the same as the v4 but it takes different uploads which cannot be compiled with a Lokprogrammer.
  17. That sounds very plausible. IIRC, value 122 sets the Option button to allow easy access to F10-28 & this is the preferred option among all who have used it at the club. It is a strange one though. Resetting the Powercab sets the buttons to F0-2 as they should be, then they change part way through an operating session. I've seen it do it but can't remember what occurrence causes this to happen.
  18. You took a peek at my layout? I've stalled a little on that lately. just doing other things really. The layout is not going anywhere & I have previously taken long breaks from the hobby before returning so there is no reason why I won't get back to it at some point. & that is the a thing about a Powercab. Upgrading it is very affordable. You only need to buy the modules you really want & building the system like that is barely, if at all, more expensive than buying the expensive "all in" version in the first place.
  19. 5A is what the power supply is capable of delivering. It will only supply what the individual components collectively draw. Assuming that the juicers collectively draw 2A, then this only leaves 3A for everything else. Only what is drawn from the loco on the point frog will actually pass through the juicer supplying it. You could theoretically have a loco which draws more than this, but the same loco would already be overheating your wiring & rails (& if you rely on rail joiners for conductivity, they would likely be glowing by this point).
  20. As far as I know, the Powecab itself doesn't actually reset, the power supply does. Either way, you don't want to be overloading your Powercab. How much current does the layout draw when no locos are on it? This will be useful to know. I have had a quick count of your points & it looks like you have over 50. If Gaugemaster's juicers consume 20mA each (which seems reasonable although I haven't checked) then this will be 1A, which leaves a further 1A(ish) for everything else. You've not mentioned what point motors you use. A stalling type (eg a Tortoise) will consume some current all the time & 50 of these will add up. A solenoid type will take a short burst & throwing a point will create a short blip, although a CDU will smooth this out a lot. When running a loco, does it suddenly cause an increase in current consumption when it reaches a certain location? If it does then it its location may be where your issue is. All decoders draw a little current even when they are not doing anything. As with accessories, this is minimal per loco but if you have 20-30 locos, it can be significant. Some locos are more power hungry than others. Heljan locos are known to draw a lot of current, maybe up to 1A for 1 loco if it is under load. It could be that your layout is simply too large for a 2A system, but it is useful to know for certain. If you do need more current, then a booster can be added. The Powercab is a very expandable system.
  21. I remember seeing some shorter Mk3 formations, but these probably stood out because they were unusual. I even saw a 6 coach rake of Mk3s once, which I think was FO-RFM-4xTSO
  22. +1 for avoiding WD40. It is a great product for doing its job: dispersing water. I'm not sure how it became used as a lubricant. It is based on a thin oil, so works well in the short term, but it evaporates after about 2-3 weeks.
  23. Grass is always greener. I have seen this in other aspects of life. I model UK so don't keep a watch on US or mainland Europe models, so thanks for the comparison.
  24. I would so love that. I model 2 eras on the WCML: the 1930s/40s & the 1980s/90s. My favourite loco for the former is the turbomotive & it appeared in 4 variations: LMS crimson lake, with the shorter reverse turbine & no smoke deflectors. Crimson lake with the longer reverse turbine & smoke deflectors (literature suggests it got both these modifications during the same repair - I have never seen a photo of it in this condition though). 1946 LMS black, but in the same physical condition as above. BR black, but in the same physical condition as above. As for the earlier comment [email protected] Mod, I also found it easier to see their announcements on here. Surely Hornby should get with the times & use a cloud provider. For those unaware, they all have a facility known by some as "auto scaling" which is really cool: It monitors a parameter which can see your system is busy & simply "spins up" extra servers to cope with the demand. When the demand drops, the servers are stopped & they only pay for what they use.
  25. The problem is recommending methods which work in one scenrio but not in another. I normally use DCC now, but this is only relevant below the board. I fit a dropper to each rail isolate the same & feed frogs the same. But the point being made is that we all have our short cuts which work for us with the way we do other things. An example for me is that I use D plugs. A friend of mine recommends using shrink wrap on each connection. I agree this is a good recommendation but it is something I have never done myself. I consider my soldering to be fairly neat & I always use hoods for the plugs & attach the sockets to blocks, so both are secured nicely & the wire ends have no chance to be pulled about relative to the plug. This has never given me a problem. So I therefore feel that omitting shrink wrap is a short cut which works with other methods I insist on using. But would I recommend to strangers on a forum that they not bother with shrink wrap? No, because if they don't also follow the other methods I use, they may cause themselves problems.
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