Jump to content
 

dj_crisp

Members
  • Posts

    1,579
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by dj_crisp

  1. 13 minutes ago, RBE said:

    We are very much looking forward to attending Model World Live and excited to show the latest painted samples of our forthcoming Class 60.
    If you are attending the show, this weekend please visit our stand, A30, for the latest updates on all of our projects and chat about model railways and modelling.

     

    WhatsAppImage2024-04-26at06_46.13_9dc4775e.jpg.5b43ec7ef8e543ae6a09e2f928cafea4.jpg

     

    Regards

    Cav

     

    Stunning! Well done Cav and Alex!

    • Agree 1
    • Thanks 1
  2. 9 hours ago, TyBryn said:

    Many thanks SteveM666 and dj_crisp for your replies.  dj_crisp, what would you recommend to strip the manufacturer's paint without adversly affecting the plastic of the body?  If you have time I would appreciate it if you could expand on stripping the original paintwork.  Thanks.

     

    Exactly as 25kv describes. I've tried many methods but for RTR (I caveat I paint diesels/DMUs) the slightly diluted IPA route has been best. I've bought several litres cheaply off Amazon (I think) and you can reuse it. Just soak your loco body overnight in a container and then brush it off in the morning.... with an old toothbrush. Then a simple wash in water (I try not to get any down the drain if possible).

     

    I've settled on Halfords grey for black but I'm now preferring Tamiya fine white which has resulted in an excellent finish.

     

    Cheers

    Will

    • Like 1
  3. On 21/04/2024 at 14:48, James Makin said:


    That would be grim! Bachmann didn’t model the Wipac light cluster at all, with just the two directional bulbs poking through a flat space, so I’m thinking a proper 3D print Wipac cluster could just replace that bit entirely and save a bit of frustration there hopefully! 😂

     

    This is a great idea! Way beyond my skill set but I'd love a set (as I have a 166 in the long term works)

  4. I go with... Strip to bodyshell, Strip paint, clean, prime, light sand, clean, top coats, gloss varnish if using waterside transfers... (sometimes I don't bother with this if using dry rub transfers), apply varnish (your finsh preference ) and then weather and if needed apply some more varnish to seal everything. 

     

    Personally I prefer enamels and only spray outdoors. Firstly keeps the wife happy, but also means I don't spray when it's too damp, cold or even hot! My best results are when I can wear shorts ;) Also enamels allow more post spraying adjustments... eg removing overspray. Although I'm preferring acrylics for final weathering these days.

     

    Enjoy! (It can be quite good fun!)

    • Like 1
    • Informative/Useful 2
  5. I've fitted several bug eye illuminated models kits to Hattons 66s and they're excellent. A really straightforward forward fix that i recommend.

     

    Also I changed around the wiring on all my 66s to end up with 10 seperate functions for lighting as that's my preferred setup.

     

    I haven't yet come across any other circuit board issues with the Hattons versions but I guess that'll be seen with time.  So unless they die I have all the 66s I can ever have the use for.

    • Like 2
    • Agree 1
  6. 6 hours ago, XChris said:

    As much as I think that the Mk2.f from Bachmann is a good example of the coach, the lack of variety of releases makes me think it’s could be done by someone else. I think every other Mk.2 type can be done because the gulf in quality and detail is massive compared to these new ones.

     

    There are some suspicious holes in the chassis of the Bachmann Mk2f that could very easily be for Mk2d/e bits. Only subtle differences in bodies to tool.

     

    A Mk2a/z would be very welcome. For me the Bachmann Mk2a only misses due to its roof shape otherwise it looks fine to me. So I'd much prefer these to be done by Accurascale to match their Mk2b.

    • Agree 1
  7. 39 minutes ago, James Makin said:


    Thanks ever so much Steve! I did wonder if everyone might get bored of the ‘47’s!
     

    I know it’s generally things like class 37s and 60s etc that seem to grab a lot of enthusiast attention but modelling the location and time period here, one can’t move for ‘Duffs’!

     

    Though having worried about boring viewers, just you guys wait until I get onto the ‘Thames Turbo’ DMU fleet 🤦‍♂️🤣

     

    Sounds cool.... Looking forward to some turbos!

    • Agree 1
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  8. 1 hour ago, Flood said:

    From what I have seen the vent positions didn't change between any of the Mk2C TSOs, just the style of vent.

     

    The positions of the vents on my model were based on the B.R drawing and photographs, measurement of an actual Mk2C would be completely accurate. In addition, I have made the access hatch slightly smaller than those on the Bachmann Mk2F coaches. Thinking about it there is no reason why they should be any different but I originally made it to the Bachmann size and when compared to photos it seemed to wide (in comparison to the door and window positions).

     

    Excellent photos are on Flickr from Steve Jones, here is just one taster:

    Mk2C TSO M5505 at Wolverhampton

     

    Taking the centre of the small centre-line disc as a datum point, the far left end in the photo above, my vent positions are as follows:

     

    23.5mm (near edge in the above photo), 60.5mm (far edge), 89.75mm (near), 130.5mm (far), 157mm (near), 196mm (far)

    Seeing as they probably should be equi-spaced then my dimensions are a bit out.

     

    The vents are in line with the original vents positions when viewing across the roof width.

    The circular plate at the nearest end on the roof is around 3 to 3.5mm diameter (it is in fact to thin plates together which is what Accurascale has modelled). The photo above still does not seem to have this plate on the centre-line as far as I can tell (due to the slight dip in the angle of the top but that may just be perspective).

     

    So you now know as much as me folks, happy modelling.🙂

     

    Edit: one thing I've just noticed, M5505 has a Western Region style train description board frame still in place in 1980. The real question is why did it ever have one in the first place as it was never due to go to the Western Region? The British Rail Mk2 Coaches book has a photo of M5498 with one of these frames as well. I guess that nobody had told Derby to stop fitting them.

     

    Many Many Thanks! Loads of great detail and help :)

  9. 20 hours ago, Flood said:

    To help out all those that will be wanting a TSOT here is the full list:

     

    NSE 6500, 6502, 6522, 6527 small toilets and Roevac vents as per the Accurascale model to come

    B/G 6504, 6506, 6511, 6520, 6523, 6524, 6525, 6528, 6529 small toilets and Roevac vents as per the Accurascale model to come

     

    NSE 6501, 6513 Mk2B toilet windows and GM vents (like EE cab roof vents)

    B/G 6505, 6516, 6519 Mk2B toilet windows and GM vents (like EE cab roof vents)

     

    NSE 6503, 6517 Mk2B toilet windows and G vents (taller version of EE cab roof vents)

    B/G 6507, 6508, 6509, 6510, 6512, 6514, 6518, 6526 Mk2B toilet windows and G vents (taller version of EE cab roof vents)

     

    NSE 6521 Mk2B toilet windows and Roevac vents

    B/G 6515 Mk2B toilet windows and Roevac vents

     

    Obviously all those in NSE originally carried Blue and Grey.

     

    In my 1992 Platform 5 book theres a nice shot of 6521 in NSE - I couldn't quite work out what vents it had based on an annoying background so thanks for clearing that up! Do you know if the layout of the roevac vents is the same as the Accurascale version?

     

    Many Thanks

    Will 

     

  10. Layouts looking great!

     

    From my electrical numptys viewpoint I've found wiring my layout for DCC easier than DC. I couldn't tell you if I have less or more wires though!

     

    I've gone for the approach of wiring each section of rail which I'd have done for both DC or DCC. 

     

    Where things are easier for me to understand is things like lights,  accessories or controlling points. I just wire up the input wires to the DCC device and wire up the corresponding output wires to the item. There's no control panel to wire up as I can get a PC to do that or atm as things are simple I'm just using my phone. Although I intend getting a cheapo tablet to replace that soon. And it's nice driving trains up to others.... messing about with lights etc which is easier on DCC.

    • Like 3
  11. 1 hour ago, Flood said:

    Thanks for the kind comment, and everyone else's appreciation.

     

    I'm an idiot, I completely forgot about one of the selling points for these coaches...

    20240411_195137.jpg.295c00679c6c939eba28f3a91acce2c8.jpg

     

    20240411_195250.jpg.9690430eb3d2db699142aa298521e366.jpg

     

    This is brilliant! 

    Hmmm I was too late to order any 2cs and I have one too many 2b TSOs for my eventual waterloo to exeter rake. I might just have to do some copying :)

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  12. 5 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

    I can remember being told that on some stock they operate on both sides and on others they only light up on the platform side.  From memory I think it was second gen DMUs that did the former and coaches did the latter, but I could be wrong...

     

    I have all my CDLs that I have installed so far to light up on both sides, I find it useful to be able to see them lit on the non platform side as a reminder that Ive switched them on (it does of course help that my planned platform only has a single operating side, so the public will never see the lights lit on the wrong side 

     

    They aren't too bright so I doubt anyone will really know with mine. I'll have a look to see how my Bachmann 158 works out of general curiosity.

  13. 47 minutes ago, SouthernMafia said:

     

    Hi Will,

     

    Do you need anything out of the ordinary to programme in Lokprogrammer? Or do they read fine without a motor on the track? Hadn't thought to try on a Lokprogrammer but will give it a go if it's simple enough.

     

    I used my sprog and decoder pro to programme... when reading the decoder type cv it gave hundreds of options then with the help from this forum I found the right light bar option. Then it's plain sailing.

     

    I've got 2 mk2f sets and have so far only programmed my virgin one. It was a breeze in the end. As there's an option to have CDLs operating one side or the other or both they're now directional as well as the tail lights. 

     

    I've never really noticed if CDL lights illuminate platform only side or both on the real thing tbh!

    • Like 1
  14. 10 minutes ago, SRman said:

    I have been using the Accurascale supplied magnetic couplings on the Accurascale Mk 2Bs, and Hunt couplings on the two Bachmann Mk 2As that are currently forming my West of England rake. The Hunt couplings with a combination of lengths are now forming the connection between the Bachmann and Accurascale coaches. The set has been running like this for a few days now with no problems to report. The corridor connections are touching on the straight sections.

    20240405_110103.jpg.71719c3311bdf2d6a850c78b16e17f46.jpg

    20240405_110202.jpg.7bbc3e60308a17f922215c3afa1b85c4.jpg

    20240405_110212.jpg.5d17361d9511dd1c424784eb0d55ea6a.jpg

     

    20240405_110222.jpg.c2d24bcf83229122692c1a11eeb137e2.jpg

     

    20240405_112126.jpg.b5931ce8b19e7bbfed6bf67c02346d17.jpg

     

     

    That's interesting. Did you use the standard coupling with the magnetic coupling? When i tried the supplied magnetic coupling i had a much larger gap whereas yours looks great on the straight.

    • Like 1
  15. On 07/04/2024 at 12:21, John ks said:

    One of the features is

    “Easy conversion to Kadee-compatiable knuckle couplers”

     

    Thanks - your post inspired me to have a go and trial one to see if I can convert mine using a similar approach. Fits the space and predrilled hole perfectly. Brilliant.

    20240408_192243.jpg.7c2d655ef39c3cfa723d2c42f953de06.jpg

     

    The only difference is I now prefer hunt magnetic couplings over kadees to couple intermediate stock. I've used them on all of my DMUs and I'm pleased with them. Hopefully one day there'll be a similar coupling with a smaller head but they're quite hard to see under a corridor connector anyway.

     

    I've lost my lifetime warranty on the shells though 😉

     

    20240408_192128.jpg.05a55fb5b11b39331682d196342a8539.jpg

     

    The corridor connectors are Keens for MK2s which I've altered the shape along the roof line ever so slightly to match Accurascale/Bachmann. It does mean drilling the lovely end doors, and removing a little detail which always feels terrible! I've also trimmed down the Accurascale connector to allow enough space for the springing to work, and to let them go round curves which also needs a slight trim of the supplied spring. The only downside to this is the Accurascale corridor connector is hollow so I'll need to fill this attempt in, but on others I might try and not file through to the hollowed bit.

     

    I set my stock up to go round 4ft radius curves which these will do... probably can go a little tighter.... below is shot on a curve coupled to a MK2f

    20240408_192220.jpg.aca719dcb84cfc6117639c230a2914d7.jpg

     

    I was tempted to keep the original close coupling but generally prefer a simpler setup even if it means my coaches are coupled a little wide. With the magnetic coupling and sprung connectors there's no slack or a pick up goods loose coupling effect 😀 

     

    The only downside to this approach is I've now got permanent inner coaches and need to plan my outer ones. Still it focuses me on producing a rake. Even if the solution is a little crude there's no gaps in corridors between coaches! My no1 pet hate!

     

    Cheers

    Will

    • Like 7
    • Informative/Useful 1
    • Craftsmanship/clever 1
    • Friendly/supportive 1
  16. 15 hours ago, NickL2008 said:

     

    They definitley look good when viewed, just getting them printed, but as Iron Mink has a contact ill probably drop him a message and see what he suggests

     

    NL

     

    I'll be interested in hearing how you get on... there's a few items that look like just what I need that'll help for my current projects.... and I have no chance in printing myself

  17. 10 hours ago, KingEdwardII said:

    That line retained loco hauled services on summer Saturdays while the line to Ilfracombe survived, but once that closed in 1970, DMUs ruled the roost.

     

    I think Newquay is a place where loco hauled trains survived much longer. Newquay has always had a proportion of longer distance trains, including HSTs and IETs in more recent times. There has also been significant freight on that branch. There are a lot of photos on the Cornwall Railway Society site.

     

    Yours, Mike.

     

    Hi Mike

     

    Agreed. I have a few photos in my favs of services labelled as going to Barnstaple in the 80s such as (cant share those actually on the line).

     

    Class 33 Newton Abbot 4/5/82

     

     

    Were these the Saturday summer specials?

     

    Cheers

    Will

    • Like 1
  18. 31 minutes ago, Wickham Green too said:

    Indeed - very different ...... off the top of my head I can't think of any branch lines surviving into the'80s with loco- hauled stock of any sort.

     

    In my modelling world there are some such as Barnstaple to Exeter, I think Newquay had some too. 

     

    Never quite sure whether the Scottish far North or West highland lines count as branchlines ;)

  19. On 06/04/2024 at 18:15, classy52 said:

    Just a minor thing, it appears Accurascale have inherited Hattons inability to wrap the Cantrail stripe around the top headlight box which is a shame whereas Bachmann has got this right on their Class 66 models.

    Was hoping AS would correct this but unfortunately not the case.

     

    Now you've mentioned it I may just have to correct my Hattons version.... or do a bit of heavier weathering.

     

    A good spot!

    • Thanks 1
  20. 22 hours ago, G-BOAF said:

    Whole AS loco seems to sit higher, unless they were not lined up properly I'm that head on shot. I don't recall such a discrepancy in hattons vs Bachmann height

     

    Yeah the Bachmann 66 always looked underscale to me in comparison to other stock. Whereas the Hattons one seemed bigger and had more layout presence to me. So I briefly owned a Bachmann 66 until the Hattons versions came out 😉

    • Agree 3
  21. 4 hours ago, John ks said:

    One of the features is

    “Easy conversion to Kadee-compatiable knuckle couplers”

    I thought this meant using the NEM pocket

    At ont point in time I noticed the area between the kinematic pocket & the under frame had a flat area with a small hole. This area looked to be the correct size to fit a Kadee 242, #5 with ears cut off or 262 narrow coupling boxes

     

    Mounting Kadees in this area puts them at OO scale height which is higher than Kadee recommends for HO scale

     

    acc1.jpg.583561b1b6a555b2da462ca33e0fff17.jpg

     

    To fit the kadee the middle part of the buffer beam needed to be removed

     

     

    acc2.jpg.52223e6065ce2bc749a4c1d78a35d63a.jpg

    I tapped the existing hole to 2mm trimmed the back off a 262 coupler box, fitted a long scale head whisker (#158) coupling

    If you remove the kinematic mechanism you wont have to trim the rear of the coupling box. Leaving the kinematic mechanism makes it easy to change back your favourite NEM coupling.

     

    acc4.jpg.10d17029f197a6f46bfd4779f555dc3f.jpg

    Some pictures of the coaches coupled to each other and a Hornby Mk1 and an APT

    They don't couple as close as kinematic couplings but are close enough & go around my tightest curves without buffer lock

     

     

     

    coupled.thumb.gif.5dd34ce673e28632b5ed953e3830d3a4.gif

     

     

    Thanks for sharing this... interesting that the kadee fits so well.

     

    I'm currently using kadee housing and hunt magnetic couplings on my coaching stock for middle vehicles so will be trying something very similar to you. I'll also plan to add some keen sprung corridor connectors which I like to use as they absorb any coupling slop. Sadly means a bit of hacking of the coaches!

  22. 5 hours ago, MJI said:

    I need a lot more Mark 1s but availablity is not great at the moment, so considering Comet ones.

     

    As to Mark 2/2a, there is an accurate model you could fit the Bachmann windows and bogies to, scrapping the shells.

     

    Triang Hornby, they are spot on with major dimensions, just the glazing, and poor bogies on later ones, they do scrub up well.

     

    This is why I asked for one to be put next to a Accurascale 2B, to show how accurate the new model is.

     

    You get the feeling the toolmakers got to play with a real Mark 2.

     

    Yes... totally agree with you. The major dimensions on some of the older models were great. Then if you can add shawplan frames a very nice model can be made. I've got a few of Brian's etches and plan to add to some mk1s (NSE ones so easy on the respray ;) ) 

    • Like 1
  23. The arrival of Accurascale MK2bs has inspired me to sort out my long term coach projects and actually focus on finishing some rakes.

     

    So I've dug out my Bachmann MK2fs and along with some nice MK2bs have spent an age re-wheeling them all to EM (about 18 in total hence me being so quiet on here!). One positive of re-wheeling is I can then try and get them to all to ride at similar heights in a rake. Both Bachman and Accurascale benefit from reducing slop which raises them ever so slightly but based on my dodgy measuring does result in spot on a height for the MK2f and a very close one for the MK2b. There will be some variation but then the real thing also had!

     

    The coaching stock review has seen me sell off all my Bachmann MK2a coaches bar one that I've kept for sentimental reasons and one i may raid in a MK2d FK project i have in mind. While the body sides are ok I've never liked the roof which is noticeably higher than the Mk2f or Mk2b.... so I look forward to an Accurascale MK2a announcement!

     

    So thoughts have moved to MK1s which again I've always felt Bachmanns effort rides too high.... especially with commonwealth bogies. So I've spent a while trying to get it looking ok amongst the MK2s.

     

    20240406_100008.jpg.1798bcfa83ee3d02c739027e92c7e778.jpg

     

    I'm using Brassmaster bogies and sticking on the sides of the original bogie frames. In fact ive cheated and stuck them on off centre to allow a gap between the bogie and body. Hopefully that bodge is passable. Again Im thinking the bodysides are ok with the roof being a smidge high as seen in the photo below.

    20240406_095916.jpg.f9905c87fbe97eb1f454c355c32bd5af.jpg

    Now the Bachmann MK1 body is basically a kit of parts (i really wish it wasnt and was one piece). Ive noticed my RMB is badly fitted so ive taken the RMB apart to investigate any problems.... number 1 being the sides are glued to the ends which resulted in me cracking one end! Grrr. A real nasty fix to add to the project list! I guess that's the fun in modelling.... I wonder if someone will announce a retooled MK1?

    • Like 7
    • Agree 1
×
×
  • Create New...