dj_crisp

I've found my older Bachmann mk1s tend to be too high... And its a bit of a fight to get them to run a bit lower. Anyhow I wonder if these ones match the older tooling.... or are more aligned to their MK2fs.

And I think they're re-releasing the TSO using the old tooling? I do like the sound of some new bogies though.... would be magic if they fit the Mk2f chassis ;)

Revisiting the MK1 is definitely welcome. I can't really see the photos properly on my mobile but looks the FO is an original build and the RB/BFO more suitable for modern stock as has lost end steps and do they have window frames?

Stunning! Well done Cav and Alex!

Exactly as 25kv describes. I've tried many methods but for RTR (I caveat I paint diesels/DMUs) the slightly diluted IPA route has been best. I've bought several litres cheaply off Amazon (I think) and you can reuse it. Just soak your loco body overnight in a container and then brush it off in the morning.... with an old toothbrush. Then a simple wash in water (I try not to get any down the drain if possible). I've settled on Halfords grey for black but I'm now preferring Tamiya fine white which has resulted in an excellent finish. Cheers Will

This is a great idea! Way beyond my skill set but I'd love a set (as I have a 166 in the long term works)

I go with... Strip to bodyshell, Strip paint, clean, prime, light sand, clean, top coats, gloss varnish if using waterside transfers... (sometimes I don't bother with this if using dry rub transfers), apply varnish (your finsh preference ) and then weather and if needed apply some more varnish to seal everything. Personally I prefer enamels and only spray outdoors. Firstly keeps the wife happy, but also means I don't spray when it's too damp, cold or even hot! My best results are when I can wear shorts ;) Also enamels allow more post spraying adjustments... eg removing overspray. Although I'm preferring acrylics for final weathering these days. Enjoy! (It can be quite good fun!)

I've fitted several bug eye illuminated models kits to Hattons 66s and they're excellent. A really straightforward forward fix that i recommend. Also I changed around the wiring on all my 66s to end up with 10 seperate functions for lighting as that's my preferred setup. I haven't yet come across any other circuit board issues with the Hattons versions but I guess that'll be seen with time. So unless they die I have all the 66s I can ever have the use for.

There are some suspicious holes in the chassis of the Bachmann Mk2f that could very easily be for Mk2d/e bits. Only subtle differences in bodies to tool. A Mk2a/z would be very welcome. For me the Bachmann Mk2a only misses due to its roof shape otherwise it looks fine to me. So I'd much prefer these to be done by Accurascale to match their Mk2b.

Sounds cool.... Looking forward to some turbos!

A fair review in BRM this month. Hopefully the next model from Heljan (what ever it may be) gets the basics better.

Many Many Thanks! Loads of great detail and help :)

In my 1992 Platform 5 book theres a nice shot of 6521 in NSE - I couldn't quite work out what vents it had based on an annoying background so thanks for clearing that up! Do you know if the layout of the roevac vents is the same as the Accurascale version? Many Thanks Will

Layouts looking great! From my electrical numptys viewpoint I've found wiring my layout for DCC easier than DC. I couldn't tell you if I have less or more wires though! I've gone for the approach of wiring each section of rail which I'd have done for both DC or DCC. Where things are easier for me to understand is things like lights, accessories or controlling points. I just wire up the input wires to the DCC device and wire up the corresponding output wires to the item. There's no control panel to wire up as I can get a PC to do that or atm as things are simple I'm just using my phone. Although I intend getting a cheapo tablet to replace that soon. And it's nice driving trains up to others.... messing about with lights etc which is easier on DCC.

This is brilliant! Hmmm I was too late to order any 2cs and I have one too many 2b TSOs for my eventual waterloo to exeter rake. I might just have to do some copying :)

Enjoy your weekend and a few pints! Cheers Will

They aren't too bright so I doubt anyone will really know with mine. I'll have a look to see how my Bachmann 158 works out of general curiosity.

I used my sprog and decoder pro to programme... when reading the decoder type cv it gave hundreds of options then with the help from this forum I found the right light bar option. Then it's plain sailing. I've got 2 mk2f sets and have so far only programmed my virgin one. It was a breeze in the end. As there's an option to have CDLs operating one side or the other or both they're now directional as well as the tail lights. I've never really noticed if CDL lights illuminate platform only side or both on the real thing tbh!

That's interesting. Did you use the standard coupling with the magnetic coupling? When i tried the supplied magnetic coupling i had a much larger gap whereas yours looks great on the straight.

Thanks - your post inspired me to have a go and trial one to see if I can convert mine using a similar approach. Fits the space and predrilled hole perfectly. Brilliant. The only difference is I now prefer hunt magnetic couplings over kadees to couple intermediate stock. I've used them on all of my DMUs and I'm pleased with them. Hopefully one day there'll be a similar coupling with a smaller head but they're quite hard to see under a corridor connector anyway. I've lost my lifetime warranty on the shells though 😉 The corridor connectors are Keens for MK2s which I've altered the shape along the roof line ever so slightly to match Accurascale/Bachmann. It does mean drilling the lovely end doors, and removing a little detail which always feels terrible! I've also trimmed down the Accurascale connector to allow enough space for the springing to work, and to let them go round curves which also needs a slight trim of the supplied spring. The only downside to this is the Accurascale corridor connector is hollow so I'll need to fill this attempt in, but on others I might try and not file through to the hollowed bit. I set my stock up to go round 4ft radius curves which these will do... probably can go a little tighter.... below is shot on a curve coupled to a MK2f I was tempted to keep the original close coupling but generally prefer a simpler setup even if it means my coaches are coupled a little wide. With the magnetic coupling and sprung connectors there's no slack or a pick up goods loose coupling effect 😀 The only downside to this approach is I've now got permanent inner coaches and need to plan my outer ones. Still it focuses me on producing a rake. Even if the solution is a little crude there's no gaps in corridors between coaches! My no1 pet hate! Cheers Will

I'll be interested in hearing how you get on... there's a few items that look like just what I need that'll help for my current projects.... and I have no chance in printing myself

Hi Mike Agreed. I have a few photos in my favs of services labelled as going to Barnstaple in the 80s such as (cant share those actually on the line). Were these the Saturday summer specials? Cheers Will

In my modelling world there are some such as Barnstaple to Exeter, I think Newquay had some too. Never quite sure whether the Scottish far North or West highland lines count as branchlines ;)

Now you've mentioned it I may just have to correct my Hattons version.... or do a bit of heavier weathering. A good spot!

Yeah the Bachmann 66 always looked underscale to me in comparison to other stock. Whereas the Hattons one seemed bigger and had more layout presence to me. So I briefly owned a Bachmann 66 until the Hattons versions came out 😉