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  1. This is just from memory, but here are some prototype figure to check your models against. 1st gen DMU have 8`6" bogies with 3` wheels (34mm and 12mm in oo gauge) 2nd gen DMU are metric, but near as makes no difference 8`6", but have smaller wheels (IIRC scales out at 11mm, Hornby use 12mm on the 153, not checked the 156). mk1 EMUs have 8`9" motor bogies with 3`3" wheels (35mm and 13mm for scale) with 8`6" unpowered bogies with 3`6" wheels (34mm and 14mm). The last BR emu not sure of, but i think they are the same as dmu, at least the non powered ones (if anyone works on the big trains is able to check with a tape measure, would be helpful). Hope this helps.
  2. The "balance weights" are actually the covers for the door release mechanisms gears to protect them (and closing gears as well). It is where the pivots from the daleks engage with the handles on the HAA to release the doors and close and lock them afterwards. PS- little known fact, the class 60 originally had the cooling intake grills see through from one side to the other, but had to be modified after delivery to block some of it off after the sensor on the daleks mis read and thought the loco had passed and extended the release arms and damaged the loco.
  3. That photo of the old steam tender at tinsley, I cant remember if it was used as the sludge carrier or the load bank. I think it was the former.
  4. My test track is OO, and uses peco medium radius and large radius points back to back, with a double slip in the middle as that will be the tightest radius my stock will encounter. This is a anyrail plan of it, built on a pine shelf from B&Q
  5. For replacement buffers for the HAA, you need 13" oleo. We don`t have a ACCURATE manufacturer who does these as a spare LOL.
  6. I cant stop, Im a addict. Do you think I could get help from the NHS?
  7. What is the one you have that is damaged? I have a EWS body somewhere, that I got for the chassis.
  8. My condition has worsened with the lockdown. Even though I was working I appear to be creating a vic berry style of stacked bodies on my workbench. Then finding out DC kits still have some bits I can use is not helping. But, on the bright side, it is still better than sitting and watching the goggle box.
  9. I have a question to ask of those with the more serious case of the disease, is there any known cure? I have been diagnosed with replicasusburbanchopatitus. Other than running out of raw materials between paydays or waiting for bits to be delivered, is there any hope or cure for me? Yours, suffering D Smith esq
  10. Question, these are powerful motors for their size (having some myself to play with), but how much of the extra power you have at the rails are from the motor and how much from not using worm drive? I think the better performance my be coming from the use of the bevel gears instead.
  11. Does anybody have the dimensions of the class 302 emu cabs? I`m led to believe they were different to the standard mk1 cabs used south of the river. The sizes I need are the width of the centre flat panel, and the size of the cab windows. Trying to figure out if I can alter a replica cab to be closer to the prototype.
  12. A quick tip, if updating the old 86/87 models, use the bogie off the Hornby class 90. IIRC the old bogies are 40mm Vs the class 90 at 44mm Vs the prototype at 43mm.
  13. Must agree with that comment, and a good example is the old 80s Hornby stuff (142, OAA etc). Poorly detailed, but at least the basic shape was right, allowing you to improve to whatever level your skills allow (both the above have been used on P4 scale layouts, with work).
  14. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A1-MODELS-4MM-DETAILING-PARTS-Radio-Roof-Pods-with-grounding-plates-2-sets/143635116654?hash=item217151f26e:g:DH4AAOSwIOhe66KK Might be worth a try for the radio pods. As to the motor bogie, squeezing the prongs at the top whilst pulling is the way to dismantle. As to the lights, no idea, not even sure if it uses the odd Hornby common return. Might be a question for the electrics section.
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