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Prof Klyzlr

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  1. Dear Neil, The "what you need" is one question, but I'd submit the better question is "why did the pre-wired LEDs you already purchased _not_ work?" Did they literally audibly/visually "go pop" (IE they weren't "12V LEDs", and/or the built-in resistor wasn't appropriate), or was it a deployment/wiring issue? (IE is the "fault" such that, even if you did use "different LEDs and seperate resistors", the outcome would likely be the same "no visible light"?) Assuming that the wiring _is_ correct, (DCC "Blue" wire = Positive Volts the appropriately-colored "Function Output" wire = Negative Volts) and it _is_ just a case of "getting LEDs and resistors which work", I would ask: - where are you located? - are you open to online ordering, or more a "buy in person" kinda guy? For myself here in Australia, SatisLED.com do Warm White 3mm LEDs (suitable for most HO scale locos) at a great bulk price http://www.satisled.com/3mm-water-clear-round-ultrabright-warm-white-led-1000pcsbag_p1762.html While you're looking at SatisLED.com , I'd pickup some 1K Ohm (1000 Ohm) resistors http://www.satisled.com/resistors-1k-ohms-14w-5-carbon-film-1000pcs_p996.html They won't give the absolute brightest-possible result out of those LEDs on either Analog or DCC, (if you do the electrical calcs, the _absolute_brightest_ result with those LEDs requires a 470 Ohm resistor per LED) but still well-bright-enough for most modellers, (Indeed, many modellers prefer a _far_less_lumens_ LED light appearance than a current-era high-efficiency LED can provide! US outline headlights are typically more "dull lamp" than "supernova"!)) and provide a significant electrical "safety margin" to handle both "correct" and "reverse-polarity" wiring conditions... I hope this helps... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  2. Dear Simon, I'm all about counteracting "CV ignorance", but sometimes just letting the "end user" button do what it's coded to do "just works".... ;-) Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  3. Dear Simon, Sorted.... ;-) (Click the yellow button at bottom right "Insert other media --> Insert Image from URL") Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  4. Dear Phil, Um? Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  5. Dear Shortliner, Right, so now there are _two_ valid use-cases for Dead Rail.... ;-) Love it... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  6. Dear Joe, Reccomend checking eBay seller "sooo-much-stuff" He keeps a good flow of Ath, Kato, and Atlas spares flowing, often including complete handrail sets... Happy modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  7. Dear Bingley, Great pics, always love that flange-squealing min radii curve into the brewery... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  8. Dear Jack, Um, hows about XF4? https://kitkraft.com/products/tamiya-acrylic-paint-yellow-green-xf-4 Alternatively, there are plenty of examples of replaced/repainted panels which would allow "forgiving" of a slightly off-tone yellow... ...and of course, weathering hides a multitude of sins... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr PS BTW, don't rely on Google Image Search to judge "what color is XF-3 yellow", literally a page-full of images and no-2-the-same... ;-)
  9. Dear Keith, Tests here OK on Droid, Win7Pro, and Win10pro, using latest Chrome, Edge, and IE browsers. (09:00 AEST, Sat 29 Sept 2018). Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  10. Dear Shinkhansen fans, IIRC the pantograph surrounds were at-least inpart an attempt to tame wind noise thru the assembly at Speed... Happy modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  11. Dear Ben, If you're open to ordering from Aussie sources, you might also want to check out WWW.auscision.com.au Happy modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  12. Dear Ben, Alco DL531 (NSWGR 48 Class, SAR 830), have been available as RTR models in HO for some decades now. Seems like a faster way to get where you're aiming for? Happy to help source one locally if that helps... Happy modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  13. Dear Ben, If you are explicitly and consciously looking for "semi-finescale 088" wheels, I would reccomend looking at: - Exactrail https://exactrail.com/collections/ho-scale-wheels-trucks - North West ShortLine http://nebula.wsimg.com/8e0447237058b48781159b49163fee67?AccessKeyId=08BEE66B97B387F20C0D&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 - Kadee https://kadee.com/htmbord/truck.htm Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  14. Dear Scaro, What equipment are you looking to replace the wheels on? This will give a guide as to whether 33" or 36" wheels are "prototypically appropriate". If you find that 33" / 9mm wheels are giving a slightly-too-low coupler height or similar, (thus suggesting the need for something "just a touch larger"), it is likely better to stick with 33" wheels and use Kadee spacer-washers between the truck and bolster to gain the extra required height... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  15. Dear Ben, Do you have a specific part number you're thinking of? AFAIK P2K wheels are all RP25-110, not "semi-finescale RP25-88", (If it's not explicitly stated, you can reasonably safely assume they are RP25-110) but if we're comparing a specific part number I stand to be corrected... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
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