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Prof Klyzlr

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  1. Dear Chris, We Miss You! Seriously! Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  2. Dear Andrew, Good to hear "FiddleStick" has inspired you to "have a go", Jack would be proud :-) Love to see some pics as things develop... Happy Modellling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  3. Dear Greg, Definitely use a step-down transformer! Mains-Powered units manuf'd in the US for the US market _commonly_ are hardwired for "110/120VAC Mains", they frequently do NOT have the kind of "switchmode" functionality which allows a Euro/Aussie Mains-Powered (C-tick, CE, etc) device to "auto-range"/adjust to any Mains Voltage 110 - 250VAC... In my previous pro gig, I had a crew at a tradeshow in Asia (accidentally) blow up a full 7.1 set of studio-grade monitors. When the smoke cleared and ears-stopped-ringing, the root of the problem turned-out to be that the speaker rig had been purchased "on the fly" for the previous tradeshow in the US, and had been blindly shipped "direct to the next show" (along with the demo editing system). As the speakers were "US Manuf for the US market", they did not even have a manual "Mains Voltage selector" switch, let alone any form of "auto Mains-Voltage switching" capability, because... ...well, they were intended to be used in the 110VAC US, and why would they need to handle any other voltage?... Right??? Under the pressure of getting a late-arriving demo system up and ready for "doors open" at the show, the asian techs missed that these were "US Only" (hardwired 110VAC) speakers, plugged everything in, hit the Power Switch to the display stand.... ...and instantly Pyro'd all 7 speakers and the Subwoofer.... (Was a really bright and impressive set of flashes surrounding the stand for a moment, followed by darkness and the pungent smell of burnt copper+insulation+sillicon). Now, your new Lionel set is not a world-class Pro Audio Tradeshow display, (It's Far More Important than that!), but I'd _absolutely_ and _strongly_ reccomend that you _wait_ for that stepdown-transformer, (Lionel Mains-Powered gear is clearly "US Manuf'd for the US Market"), or at-the-very-least, have a good look at the base of the PSU/Throttle unit for _any_ indication of the intended Input Mains Voltage range... (If it's hardwired with a US two-pin plug, then the likelyhood that it's electrically "110VAC only", and no simple "Mains Physical Plug Format adaptor" will solve the Mains Voltage mismatch...) Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr PS if the Lionel pack _is_ 110VAC only, then you only have a single-chance to "get it right" (or devastatingly-wrong), and as it's a "present from your Significant Other", that's not a "One Chance, NO Fix if it's Wrong" risk you want to take...
  4. Dear md, Thanks for posting this, very valuable even for freight modellers... (passing parade of Amtrak behind the freight-switching "main game".... ;-) ) Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  5. Dear Halsey, Sorry, I obviously missed a minor detail in your post, but you attempted to buy 20 of _what_? (CI, BC, or some other item?) I've _occasionally_ (maybe 1 in 50) bought a sealed packet CI 218s throw where the lever part had popped out of the base casting. As long as the 2 nubs which act as the "pivot" for the lever are still in place, it is <5 secs to pop the lever casting back in place, and move on.... On the occasion where a uber-heavy-handed operator has caused one of the lever pivot nubs to shear off (never happened on any of my layouts in over 25 years of using CI throws, but I have seen it occur elsewhere), It is trivial to strategically trim away the other cast-on nub, Drill thru the base of the lever casting, (using the nub base divots as the guide points for the drill), Insert a length of suitable dia brass Rod to act as a replacement pivot, Reassemble the throw, And keep going... ...and if used as designed, such a failure just does not occur in my experience... Happy modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  6. Dear Halsey, Can't say I've ever seen, let alone used them in-person down here in Aust, but from the pictures online I feel like: - they look _less_ prototypical than the CI options, - look _more_ obtrusive trackside, (although that could presumably be mitigated by remote wire-in-tube mounting the same way as for CIs, rendering this point moot for _both_ options) - and the handle is _not more accessible_ than a CI, esp as the BC level sits _flat_ against the mounting surface... (HINT: The CI handle is NOT designed to be "pressed down soo far so the tip hits the ground", they _are_ intended to end up sitting _horizontal_/parallel to the railhead surface when fully-thrown, sitting at least 1/8" above the moutning surface, which is enough to get a fingernail and fingertip solidly onto the lever end...). Personally, I would choose the CIs over the BCs every time... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr PS FWIW, the BCs are "USD$10 for a pair", https://bittercreekmodels.com/page11.html the CI 218s are USD$3.55 ea, or "USD$7.10 for a pair" https://www.cabooseind.com/product-page/218s-sprung-with-165-travel-for-ho-and-n https://www.cabooseind.com/product-page/5218s-sprung-165-travel-for-ho-and-n-5-pack (5-pack at USD$16.75, or USD$3.35 ea)
  7. Dear Halsey, Must admit I'm not familar with "old fingers" as a dimensional measurement, but I personally find the CI 218S throws more than large enough for my 40+ yo fingers, and regularly have operators from 15 - 80+ operate my layouts without issue... ;-) Having the CI throws mounted at the layout fascia edge, and connected to the turnouts via wire-in-tube (typically PECO with the centring spring removed, although also implemented with handlaid turnouts) makes access much easier, and simultaneously improves the "trackside scenic visual" significantly... ;-) Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr PS Believe I've listed the "216s" models previously, the correct model number is 218s.... (.165" travel, Sprung throw). https://www.cabooseind.com/product-page/218s-sprung-with-165-travel-for-ho-and-n They are also available in 5-packs under part # 5218s...
  8. Dear RMWebbers, I have my own thoughts on O2R vs P48, but any thoughts on the display height and lack of lighting? Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  9. Dear RMWebbers, So, will this be an Oscale (P48) re-spin of the "Wingate Indiana" plan in the 1995 MRP? If so, and he chooses to recreate the "linear shelf layout" version, (the dimensions noted sound awfully like the HO linear shelf layout version x2, the HO version was a "4x8 sheet, ripped into a 8x2 and two 8x1 staging yards, one for each end of the "run thru") there's going to be some serious $$$ and huntiing to find enough O2R/P48 locos and cars to properly equip it as the original MRP article shows... Will keep eyes open... EDIT: well, Google is a thing ;-) http://usmrr.blogspot.com/2018/08/o-scale-national-finale.html http://updunesjunction.blogspot.com/2018/09/a-childhood-friend-comes-to-my.html Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  10. Dear Don W, Never say never, if it can work in HO.... (Believe these have been posted before, except maybe the top MILW F-unit example?) Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  11. Dear Joe, SWs, NWs, and Alco S switchers are a good match for "Pine Ridge 2", esp when hosting 50' cars, as I found with "Brooklyn : 3AM" (a kitbashed variant of "PR2", tweaked to better represent the Loft Building 20 area on NYCH RR, on the corner of 41st and 2nd) http://www.carendt.com/small-layout-scrapbook/page-87-july-2009/ Geeps and CF7s can work, but it can get awful squeezy... (and by strange quirk actually seem to fit better with 40' cars...) 4x ? has never been a disappointment for me personally in HO SG, but _any_ "Micro layout" sized mission takes conscious and studious effort to optimise, when you only have 48 linear inches to work with, you can't afford to waste a single one... (as Iain Rice noted "...a spur which holds 1 1/2 cars is no more useful than a spur which holds only 1 car, and significantly less-useful than a spur which holds 2x cars clear at a pinch...") Looking forward to seeing where this mission leads you... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr PS Might be worth doing some roaming around on Lance Mindheim's site and here on RMWeb RE "clip on staging". even the excellent PR2 plan can benefit from a "track on a stick"/"offstage" extension, if space allows...
  12. Dear Train, Love it! I take it the donor mech is a Proto2k EMD SW or Alco S switcher? Were you able to retain the powered-mech, or is it now a dummy? The white-metal GE airtanks look familar (and surely go some way to counteracting the weight lost by the fuel-tank removal), and I can see this being equipped with a small armada of strobes, ditch-lights, and headlights. Can't wait to see how it turns out... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr PS what Mother-unit are you intending to mate this Slug with?
  13. Dear ??? Might I suggest a walk thru the 1/87 Vehicles.org website? http://1-87vehicles.org/photo_index/index_fire.php?pageNum_photo_index_fire=2&totalRows_photo_index_fire=946 (Prepare to burn a few hours... ;-) ) and there's always ShapeWays https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace/miniatures/vehicles?q=fire+truck&sort=&facet[pdcId][]=126&facet[pdcId][]=462&facet[pdcId][]=463&facet[price][min]=1&facet[price][max]=2500&facet[price][from]=1&facet[price][to]=2500 (Prepare to burn another few hours... ;-) ) Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
  14. Dear EngineLance, No, you understand correctly. That is exactly the jumper plug in question. (It is _NOT_ a "8-pin decoder plug" for installing a seperate/new/other-manuf decoder, |it is a "Operating mode switch/jumper") NB that as the plug has 4 (two pair) of pins, it can be placed in _either_ - "closest to the Truck" position OR - "closest to the Fueltank" position (the position shown in your second image) One of those positions is "hardwired for analog, decoder is NOT in circuit" (I suspect this is the position the jumper was in when you reported "Analog works, DCC not-so-much") the other is "Decoder IS in circuit, should operate on DCC" (Yes, the board _is_ a Motor+Light decoder, assuming the Jumper is in the correct position! ;-) ) SO, try moving the jumper "to the other position", and retest... Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr PS remember that Atlas tends to ship "DCC equipped" locos with the decoder address the same as the cab number, so be sure to try _both_ the typical NMRA default "Address 3", _and_ the loco cab number...
  15. Dear EngineLane, RE Atlas Dual-mode decoders NB that some Atlas "Dual mode" (NON Sound!) locos are "dual mode" by dint of having a physical "amalog/DCC" jumper, (likely Just ABOVE the Arrow-head TIP of the "DCC P.C. BOARD 345" arrow on the diagram below) https://www.hoseeker.org/assemblyexplosionAtlas/atlasfmh151644pg1.jpg (A direct clickable link, as the auto-embedded image version seems problematic. Also attached standalone, see below) Once you have the jumper configured so that the decoder _is_ actually "in circuit", follow the provided info below to configure the decoder, inc enabling the more-typical CV29 "operate on analog" mode http://download.atlasrr.com/pdf/HO_H15-44Manual_Atlas.pdf Happy Modelling, Aim to Improve, Prof Klyzlr
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