“WASHBOURNE”

[Donw]

Will you have a nice Scottish name for the station and what will the loco be?

 

Don

[Northroader]

I’m sticking to the trademark name “Washbourne”, Don, but it’s got the capability of getting a Caledonian flavour by becoming “Washburn”, and if I can last long enough to do the NER, it’ll be “Washbeck”.

The loco. is trying to be a GNoS “E” class, LNER “J91”, but I’m afraid it’s an awful bodge. I used a spare chassis for a South Wales 0-6-0T (all my finished stock for South Wales went in the Great Clearout) but the wheelbase is about 18” too long. Then Things happened during the superstructure build, dimensionally and square wise. Jonathan did a comment over on another thread this week about how you get more meticulous as you grow older, I’m afraid I’ve gone the other way.

[Donw]

well as far as I am concerned if you can get it to give the flavour of the original  it will be fine.

 

I have been looking through my ebook copy of Phillip Harvey's Amberdale  prototype accuracy is not a priority but what a wonderful creation and the buildings and horse drawn vehicles are superb.

 

You could have the station nameboard like one of those bus destination rollers where you change the name to suit the stock. Now thats given me a thought with a little OLED display and an Arduino plus a bit of coding  I could have a station name whatever was wanted.

 

I shall look forward to Washburn.

 

Don

[Northroader]

 

Theres these two camellias in pots either side of the front door step. What possesses such a delicate, tender flower to start blossoming in February, I’ve no idea, every evening we’re watching the weather forecast for overnight frost, and take them in the house, otherwise that lovely bloom will be turned to brown mush. This last week, they’ve stayed out all the time.

Back in November, I was putting together some strips of 10mm foamboard to make up a fiddle yard base, and was very disappointed to find the glue didn’t “take”, just staying wet and messy 24 hours later. It seems you have to store the stuff at over +5 C, so it’s lived with me on top of the chest in the bedroom for the last few months. Now it’s warming up, so mix a dollop with about three parts water and a few drops of washing up liquid, and go round the “Western Fringe” line ballast with an eye dropper. It’s now set rock hard.

 

 

Then dig out the foamboard, and try again… Result! That’s set nicely, so push on with the Washbourne fiddle yards.
 

 

So now we can definitely say its warming up, and we can celebrate Spring with Hilda.

 

 

 

 

Edited March 16 by Northroader

[F-UnitMad]

2 hours ago, Northroader said:

....disappointed to find the glue didn’t “take”, just staying wet and messy 24 hours later. It seems you have to store the stuff at over +5 C, so it’s lived with me on top of the chest in the bedroom for the last few months....

You've had to live of top of the chest in the bedroom, Bob..??!! 

Is that punishment from the good Lady 'Roader?, after all you will keep posting pictures of Hilda... 😂😂👍

[Mikkel]

That's a nice spring announcement, it actually made me look out the window. Time for a walk I think, thank you!

[St Enodoc]

9 hours ago, Northroader said:

 

 

 

Has she grazed her knees or are they carpet burns?????

[Northroader]

Best not go there, Saint! (We’ll say dirt)

[Northroader]

Well, I had this baseboard ready, and I had a plan prepared which I had thought out before the house move. Then I put a station building kit together, which was a smart move, because it showed me that the baseboard needed to be wider. I had brought a few plain track panels with me, and since then I’ve been trying out various setups for through track and a siding. My original idea was soon junked, just seeing how it looked laid out on the board, with a loco, rolling stock, and the station interacting. How to get some interest in operation, coupled with a good appearance, was the problem. I’ve now decided to go for what is pretty well the standard basic small layout, which you can find scattered in various places across this web, all looking good and working quite happily. Just having plain track is out, and I needed two short points to form a crossover. Recent posts on the Peco setrak points thread have demonstrated that this can be done, so I’ve bought a pair and had a go.

 

 

it’s a matter of removing the sleepers from the diverging road, straightening the rails beyond the crossing, and refitting the sleepers. I’ve also added jumpers across the join at the heel of the point blades. Then trimming the two roads back to back to form a crossover. GOG standard for the width between straight double track is 45mm between the flangeways of the inner rails, but I’ve increased this to 62mm, mainly with an eye to the runoff on to the fiddle yard cassettes, which need the extra width when placed side to side, which they will need to be during a run round move. I also feel that trimming much more off the diverging tracks, bringing the crossings closer and narrowing the gap between the parallel tracks, could cause more problems.

 

 

The points are now in grey primer, and placed roughly in position for this view. The fiddle yard is on the left, and the stop blocks will be on the right, at the end of the board. I’m much more confident of having a decent little line now.

Edited Sunday at 18:29 by Northroader

[Flying Fox 34F]

Hello Bob,

I recall a small layout built by Richard Chown, where he mentioned not to have the common crossings too close together or even directly opposite each.  Causes derailments apparently.  I suspect you’ve done the right thing.

Paul

[F-UnitMad]

2 hours ago, Northroader said:

The points are now in grey primer, and placed roughly in position for this view.

Interesting. Without being told, I would not have guessed these are the Peco setrack points, even though I've been following that other thread about the modification as well. I realise it's work in progress, but they also look very different in grey primer as well..!! 👍

[Northroader]

I think if I got ‘proper’ medium radius points, Jordan, they’d damn near fill the length of the board, but these do look as if they’re  points as nature intended without being too toylike, and I thought doing a picture while they’re still in primer would help to pick them out.

You’re right, Paul, I remember seeing somewhere that having the crossings opposite would lead to derailments. It would be a messy job if you tried to do it with these.

[St Enodoc]

4 hours ago, Flying Fox 34F said:

Hello Bob,

I recall a small layout built by Richard Chown, where he mentioned not to have the common crossings too close together or even directly opposite each.  Causes derailments apparently.  I suspect you’ve done the right thing.

Paul

Yes. If you look into this using templates or real points, you'll see that if the crossing gaps coincide there is no checking function so wheels can go either way.

[Donw]

Increasing the 6ft way also shortens the distance to the fouling point making for a longer loop or siding.  Short stock also tends to go better over sharp crossovers compared to long ones.  Here's me telling that to  the king of shorties.

 

Don