modfather Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 Sorry to ask so rudely, but I am on a quest to get a layout built in time for the swag meet. Being lousy at electronics, how am i best to wire this to use electrofrog points and manual switching? Thanks in advance. MAtt In case it doesnt show, its the same track plan as ruyton road. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim V Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 I thought the plan was Ruyton Rd:excl: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted March 2, 2010 Share Posted March 2, 2010 look here http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.htm http://www.mrol.com.au/Articles/Electrical/LiveFrogWiring.aspx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 96701 Posted March 2, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2010 Always supply points from the toe, and fit insulating rail connectors to both rails of the vee (frog). Insulating rail joiners on the vee can result in it being necessary to feed the isolated rail as well. If you don't want to rely on the electrical contact between switch and stock rail to supply the switch rail and frog, then you'll need to modify the points and install a switch to supply the frog. It is entirely feasible to have a manually operated switch connected to your point. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Cheers chaps, my plan has changed to a crib of hepton wharf (cos it fits the space better) I will have a go and wait for the bangs (Strange isn't it...I'm happy to do just about anything to a 15x or 14x at work but struggle with model electrics...) By modifying the points, does this mean cutting off the jumping wires underneath, at which point a assume a 3/2way switch shoud do the trick for each point? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 96701 Posted March 2, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2010 Yes, and you'd be better off connecting the switch rails to the adjacent stock rail. Single pole, 2 way switch is what you'll need. Connect a wire from each stock rail to a 'pole'and one wire from the 'common' to the frog. I hope my rubbish drawing helps, but if not, I'm sure somebody else will oblige. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 That's perfect, I have two such switches tucked away, i suspect two can be wired together on the plan I am using since they will be straight or set to each other. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 96701 Posted March 2, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 2, 2010 Correct, but remember to test twice and solder once. Bitter experience speaks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modfather Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 Ah the voice of experience, it'll be fine Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete the Elaner Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 That extra wiring & switching may sound like extra efffort, but it is well worth it. The contact between point blades & stock rail is unreliable & you would regret relying on it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Hi I have shown the minimum feeds and insulated rail joiners needed. 6 red and 7 black feeds (shown by triangles, note; two are under the bridge) and 6 IRJs. Caution.... If you opt for separate frog switching (toggle switches etc.) with finger operated live frog points, a full short circuit will occur if you try to move either the point blade or the switch. The reason is both have to move together! e.g. Moving the point blade to the other closed position would send a reversed polarity to the frog, which is still being maintained by the switch to the opposite polarity! Or moving the switch to the reverse position, the frog will then be supplied with a reverse polarity, but with the point blade still in the original position and that is sending an opposite polarity to the frog! Result in either case is a full short circuit!!! The only way around this if you want manually operated frog switching is to proved insulated joints into the two closure rails of each point and link the closure rail to its mating stock rail. Making the point so called 'DCC friendly' - A term I dislike! This is shown on my web site DCC page. The traverser would require it rails feeding too (not shown). This can be a permanent feed to all rails or a switched feed to the appropriate rail - often via a slide bolts, a rotary switch or three individual On/Off (DPDT) toggle switches. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jamie92208 Posted March 6, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 6, 2010 One very easy way to combine switching and point operation is to use a slide switch instead of a toggle. Couple one end to a wire in tube system to move the point and wire it as above. Just remember to screw the witch firmly to the baseboard. I've seen this done many times and it's very reliable as it impossible to move point without switching it. Jamie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
engager Posted December 22, 2010 Share Posted December 22, 2010 look here http://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/Electrical.htm http://www.mrol.com.au/Articles/Electrical/LiveFrogWiring.aspx Thank you for the invalueable info on this link Brian, 1st class! engager Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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