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Toms LNER Workbench - Experiments in Teak and Lining


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Re The Jubilee .

 

Does this have etched nickel silver lines on the body sides hence the masking ? Much easier to prime the body , then scrape the lines back to bare metal , then paint the top colour, the scrape the lines again, as the line is now not primed, the paint will peel off the lines. You can do the same to the raised LNER and numbers.

 

Why are you , I presume glazing the coach prior to  painting ?

 

 

Much easier again to paint the roof, mask that and then paint body.

 

Part of my Silver Jubilee set ,the lining on mine is transfers.

 

post-7186-0-57652900-1294678665_thumb.jpgpost-7186-0-58999200-1294678679_thumb.jpgpost-7186-0-62860400-1294678691_thumb.jpgpost-7186-0-11710000-1294678702_thumb.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Hallo Mick,

 

Thanks for stopping by.

 

Your Jubilee set looks very nice indeed.

 

With regards to the cant rails being Nickel Silver - mine aren't. However, if they were, I'd most likely still paint them, as getting the cant rails to tie in with the lining would be problematic. If I was to leave them as bare metal, I would still mask them anyway, as scraping paint is too frought with danger for my liking - personal preferance of course.

 

Let me explain my way of working which might reveal the madness behind the method.

 

  1. Prime the whole body and interior with Acid 8 Etch Primer
  2. Paint the insides of the coach. In this case, light green, teak or light blue. I do this first, as there is likely to be paint bleed from inside the coach to the exterior. By doing the outside later I am assured of a near flawless as possible exterior.
  3. Mask interior windows to protect the insides from overspray. I also attach the coach floors temporarily at this point to further prevent paint ingress.
  4. Spray on the chrome paint
  5. Spray a light protective coat of semi gloss varnish to protect the chrome
  6. Mask the chrome (the most time consuming bit)
  7. Spray the main body colour.
  8. Mask body sides only
  9. Spray the valances, and mask
  10. Spray the roof. No need to mask the ends as i just angle the coach whilst spraying
  11. Drybrush the raised detail with silver
  12. Paint other details.

This way I can achieve a consistent finish, as I hope the following image of Coronation shows, all completed using the above method:

 

IMG_6069.jpg.3607d9f342341ccdd5c370ddcc4f2705.jpg

 

 

Edited by grob1234
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1 hour ago, grob1234 said:

Hallo Mick,

 

Thanks for stopping by.

 

Your Jubilee set looks very nice indeed.

 

With regards to the cant rails being Nickel Silver - mine aren't. However, if they were, I'd most likely still paint them, as getting the cant rails to tie in with the lining would be problematic. If I was to leave them as bare metal, I would still mask them anyway, as scraping paint is too frought with danger for my liking - personal preferance of course.

 

Let me explain my way of working which might reveal the madness behind the method.

 

  1. Prime the whole body and interior with Acid 8 Etch Primer
  2. Paint the insides of the coach. In this case, light green, teak or light blue. I do this first, as there is likely to be paint bleed from inside the coach to the exterior. By doing the outside later I am assured of a near flawless as possible exterior.
  3. Mask interior windows to protect the insides from overspray. I also attach the coach floors temporarily at this point to further prevent paint ingress.
  4. Spray on the chrome paint
  5. Spray a light protective coat of semi gloss varnish to protect the chrome
  6. Mask the chrome (the most time consuming bit)
  7. Spray the main body colour.
  8. Mask body sides only
  9. Spray the valances, and mask
  10. Spray the roof. No need to mask the ends as i just angle the coach whilst spraying
  11. Drybrush the raised detail with silver
  12. Paint other details.

This way I can achieve a consistent finish, as I hope the following image of Coronation shows, all completed using the above method:

 

IMG_6069.jpg.3607d9f342341ccdd5c370ddcc4f2705.jpg

 

 

Seriously !! how long do you take per coach!! 

To stop the paint getting into the interior simply mask inside the windows, if needed add masking tape along the bottom edge as well, ,much easier to simply repaint any overspray after the outside is painted . Why would the paint bleed from the interior out, I can see no reason why it would ?.  Being realistic you can hardly see inside any coach once finished anyway.

 

I had presumed the kit was Nickel Silver, hence I now presume Brass, so the idea was useless on this occasion anyway . Try it on scrap body with raised detail you maybe surprised how easily the paint comes away cleanly. Fox Transfers do the Jubilee and Coronation lettering and numbers decals. Used on my model.

 

 Sorry to be slightly critical but you would get better straight lines with decals , yours as shown are not perfect . You then would only need to mask  the Coronation set  for the two colours and the roof if painted first and on the Jubilee just the roof again paint that first .

 

Good luck !!!

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Cheers Mick.

 

Thing is, I enjoy the process, and as it's taken me about 4 years to get to this point, time really isn't a factor to me. However, doing a job that is to my personal satisfaction is very important.

 

Getting decals to align properly with rased detail is difficult, and not my chosen approach. However, you have demonstrated what works for you which is great.

 

Let's see how they turn out.

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I agree re raised detail in this case. I personally would have removed them before painting, seems a daft idea to me , as you said virtually impossible to paint well.

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Work continues: the unfashionable D120 van has been numbered with Methfix Trasfers. All I need to do now is apply a modicum of weathering, dull down the varnish a tad, and finally fit the glazing:

 

IMG_6114.jpg.35ce179ba25119c4e3dc2c4b5a9568ba.jpg

 

In other work, I made an error.

 

The valance on the SJ is too dark. Partly my fault, partly PPP's fault. Their website says the following:

 

P54... "Used in conjunction with P55 Charcoal Grey for the smokebox and P56 Mid Grey for the valances, running board, frames etc. on the locomotives and below the footplate on the coaches."

 

So thats what I did used P56, but as you can see, it is far too dark:

 

IMG_6115.jpg.1703c877f60a21db75d04e4095fcad5a.jpg

 

Silver Jubilee Pic 1

 

Silver Jubilee Pic 2

 

In both of these images, the valances on the coaches are clearly lighter than the valances on the loco. I did wonder why the bogies I had previously painted were much lighter. Now I know. Anyhow, not too big of a job to correct it, and I want it to be right, so that'll be the next job.

 

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Posted (edited)

Quick re-spray. Much more like it I think. Here is a contrast with the A4 Silver Link Tender.

 

Original:

 

IMG_6118.JPG.ed1f7998bd4dfecef8ccb17881b33b25.JPG

 

New version:

 

IMG_6117.JPG.9ed6d84380edba6256ddf8f978e3b5fd.JPG

 

Very similar IMHO to the Loveless set, which I am led to believe is very accurate. Don't model a model, etc etc.

 

 

 

Edited by grob1234
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On 22/06/2020 at 19:19, richard i said:

There is colour film out there of the silver jubilee leaving kings cross. Train up close, good for details.

richard

 

Thank you Richard. I have seen that previously, lovely footage though isn't it?

 

The valances look quite dark there... what do you think? Many photos I have seen show the valances as being lighter?

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18 minutes ago, grob1234 said:

 

Thank you Richard. I have seen that previously, lovely footage though isn't it?

 

The valances look quite dark there... what do you think? Many photos I have seen show the valances as being lighter?

I would go on colour film as b/w you have shade and shadow and we don’t know which necessarily.

richard 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 21/06/2020 at 20:29, grob1234 said:

Now I like the look of the darker more wizened versions, so I used a PP base coat and then Raw Umber over the top. It awaits clear varnish which should homogenise things a little more.

 

I love this teak finish, and apologies if I'm being dense, but please could you describe the paints again?  PP: Precision Paints?  What colour?  And what is your source of Raw Umber please?

Or has all this been explained earlier in the thread and I've missed it?

Thanks very much, Dave.

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2 hours ago, DLT said:

 

I love this teak finish, and apologies if I'm being dense, but please could you describe the paints again?  PP: Precision Paints?  What colour?  And what is your source of Raw Umber please?

Or has all this been explained earlier in the thread and I've missed it?

Thanks very much, Dave.

 

Hi Dave, thank you, I can't take much credit for it, it is essentially the method I have seen Mike Trice use.

 

So the base for this one was Pheonix Precision P995 Teak Basecoat. Once thats very very thoroughly dry, use very small amounts of oil paint top coat. Streaking it and working it til there is very little grain efffect left. These are the paints I use:

 

IMG_6161.JPG.0c53147a1ea7379766ff334dc838c4da.JPG

 

You can be creative too. I have made up a few other 'recipie cards', depending on the look you're after:

 

IMG_6160.JPG.5a05c102c087a471ef1f14d263107ce5.JPG

 

The technique is still a work in progress, but hope this gives you an idea. Just have a go and experiment.

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Thanks very much Tom, that's a great help.  Your recipe cards are a work of art in themselves!

All the best, Dave.

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4 hours ago, grob1234 said:

I'm calling this one done. Lovely little build, and will look lovely behind a D2 on a local service.

 

IMG_6159.jpg.ee0176b6d06cda4f7e99598182a7062b.jpg

 

Pure filth - I love it.

 

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7 minutes ago, Bucoops said:

 

Pure filth - I love it.

 

 

I'm reminded of the film 'Personal services' with Julie Walters.....I've got some hardwood that needs buffing...:D

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well at last the Silver Jubilee goes in the finished pile. Sort of. Curtains to fit, ride height to adjust, and silver railings to expose, but other than that, the mammoth project is at an end. I'll get some better photos in due course. I have applied the lightest of weathering. Many models I have seen are pristine. After turning at Newcastle, and heading back down the ECML, these would have picked up a little grot. I wanted to post a quick teaser as to my next project but I have reached my upload limit for the day. It will be very much a 'mixed-media' build. More to come :)

 

IMG_6281.jpg.96b01c7957acf72a383a36207fa39cd9.jpg

 

IMG_6282.JPG.84eca29fa4776a75c401d2e740407679.JPG

Edited by grob1234
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