Inspired by Brent June 1947

[The Fatadder]

43 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said:

What material was the house constructed from? as that may affect the finish, especially post war.

 

 

Rough stone, I haven’t modelled the actual prototype as it won’t fit, instead adapting a model I’ve already built (adding the left hand wall that I hadn’t originally modelled.)

[Siberian Snooper]

Looks good, I don't think I would spoil it by lime washing it. I don't think they had the kind of masonry paints that we have now.

 

 

[The Fatadder]

I think you might be right there, the tricky bit is going to be blending in the new stone work to match the existing 3 sides.

 

I’ve now had a look at the 1908 map and it looks like the path was there serving a corn mill the other side of the railway which no longer exists.  It also looks like that in 1908 at least try current house wasn’t there (the dwelling was the opposite side of the path in the location I have moved the building on my layout.  The big shaded in blue looks to be the ruined building in my photo.

Looks like I need to keep the path.  I was almost hoping I could get rid of it (as it makes the scenics a lot easier), but as it looks like it was there on the real thing it needs to stay 

 

[The Fatadder]

Still not motivated myself to get on with building Dinghams, so it’s a couple more wagons for the mainline this evening.

 

the first has been highlighted before, with the Ratio 5 plank with a new 45xx driving wheel en route to Laira.  The second a Parkside gunpowder van.  Both were built with Bill Bedford sprung suspension, so today I finally got around to thinning the axle boxes / springs I remove the plastic w iron and glued into position.  I also corrected the orientation of the wheel set load.  (Though I’m not entirely sure how it should be lashed down).

 

I had left over paint (as usual) so made use of it to eliminate a couple of white roofs, sorting out a Hornby horse box (on which I also corrected the end colour) and a Hornby LWB LNER van.  The latter will get couplings tomorrow while the former is in the queue for Dinghams (and new brake gear, the originals were removed when the wagon was converted to P4 in advance of building replacements.)

 

 

Hoping tomorrow will be a bit warmer as there are jobs on the layout I would rather be doing.  Having finished hovering up the detritus from the past six months, I feel like making some more mess finishing the cess. Much as I desperately want to get started laying grass, I think that (and the track weathering) really need doing first!

 

 

To finish, another question:  I have found the perfect grade (in both colour and texture) of sandpaper to model the gravel parts of the platform surface.   My concern is that with varying temperature, it will curl up at the ends.  So I’m hoping anyone with experience of using brick papers etc in the garage can chip in with advice for the best glue and best techniques to get a good finish.

[The Fatadder]

A couple more editions to the wagon fleet this evening, first up the horse box now has brakes so is now back in the pile awaiting Dinghams.

 

Next, the Southern mineral wagon.  I have added HMRS transfers (from the LNER pack, the S and R are off the end of a transfer for Engineers.) I need to confirm what the white lines signifying centre doors should look like (as Cambrian’s instructions are rather vague)

 

A Coopercraft GW 7 plank was fitted with axle boxes (it already has 3links).  This is missing the end plate for the sheet rail on one side.  But having looked and seen it was not one that I corrected the bizarre Coopercraft floor, (so the inside of the wagon is far too short).  The plan is to add a wagon sheet.

 

finally two more Mink, one vacuum fitted and the other unfitted. Both with the later style of end for a change.  Upon taking this photo I realised that one still has P4 wheels which will need swapping out once I receive more OO wheels.  The larger of the so has Cheddar written on the side, showing how long ago I made the model!

 

 

[The Fatadder]

A little more on the house which will eventually be located between the goods yard and the Avon.  Having decided to keep the stone finish, I have picked out a few more stones in different colours before applying a mortar wash.

 

The stone lintels on the windows have been toned down, and the windows repainted in white.

 

I now need to source roof tiles (for this and the station) in order to finish off.  I am not planning to do an interior, so I think some net curtains will do the job of blocking our prying eyes. 

[The Fatadder]

The final project for the evening was an attempt to save a Python that I started in about 2012 while working away from home (at the same time a fair few of these kits were built.)

I made a silly mistake at the time and glued the solebars in place without filing a recess for the suspension units. Net result they were about 0.5mm too wide on each side.  Rather than accepting the small error and moving on, I tried to fix it (destroying both solebars in the process.).  The plan was to buy a new part from Parkside and to repair, but I never got round to it before Peco took over and ruined the spares service.  So instead I’m making do with Evergreen channel and a degree of scratch building.

 

so far the new frames are in place, along with the W irons.  So the next job tomorrow is going to be an attempt at adding the underframe truss.  With that done I can finish cobbling together the brake gear and it will be good to paint.....

 

photo will be added in the morning, as I shut up the workshop after a bulb blew halfway through gluing a component in position scaring the life out of me in the process!  

 

Edited February 1, 2021 by The Fatadder

[MrWolf]

You are not alone, your problem 

reminds me that somewhere in the Great Wall of Dreck that is three sides of my modelling bench, there lies an ex Cambrian Railway van which has an inbuilt floor / solebar / buffer beam discrepancy that I didn't notice until I had confidently nailed it all together. 

It will take some level of vandalism to put it right. Or I might sulk and stick it atop the garden wall for RRH to improve her aim...

[The Fatadder]

 

A little more on the Python before work, has the springs/axle boxes and underframe trussing added.  The brakes are ready to go on next.

Annoyingly one of the buffers seems to have disappeared, so that’s going to have to wait until I place another order with LMS (there are about 5 other wagons plus 2 coaches also waiting so hopefully won’t take much longer.

[Siberian Snooper]

I think that the bottom discharging marks are like a V with the point cut off and the remains cover 2 or 3 planks, not  sure which planks though.

 

 

[The Fatadder]

33 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said:

I think that the bottom discharging marks are like a V with the point cut off and the remains cover 2 or 3 planks, not  sure which planks though.

 

 

Just had a look on Paul Bartlett's website, and almost straight away found a photo from the mid 50s of an ex Bolsover Colliery PO wagon which has had the BR addition of the white line at the door opening side and the floor door markings.  Black rectangle which was one and a half planks thick with a V that has the point cut off as you describe.  Will get it added.

 

Am I right in saying the practice of having these markings on the wagon highlighting an end door / floor doors was a Southern thing which was then adopted by BR, as opposed to a something that would have been widespread in the 40s.  I think I need to dig out "The 4mm Coal Wagon" this evening and see if it is mentioned in there...

 

[The Fatadder]

The final pair of bogies are finished for the TPO, unfortunately they ride a bit high in the modified Lima siphon chassis I put under this coach.  I could modify the spacers to lower it accordingly, but instead I think I will just source another 50ft Comet chassis and use that.  

of course it will be a slightly more complicated build as this time I won’t have spare bits from the O33 kit to help me along, but it will be worthwhile none the less.  I need to place a Wizard order for some wheels for my 2252 (it’s only right to use some of the funds from selling the ultrascales to buy some Markits for it.)

 

I have also made a start on the K18 Toplight full brake.  The sides and ends have now had the tumblehome formed, and are ready to start assembly.  (Though I’ve still yet to buy an MJT roof for it...

 

I don’t like  the way the ends are designed as a 2 layer etch, both of which need forming (with the 2nd complicated by the former for the buffer beam.). Instead my plan is the inner etch will be straight (and fitted in the right place for the buffer beam) then some scrap spacers are fitted in place before adding  the outer end formed to shape.

 

edit: I’ve just found some brass strip of the perfect thickness to pad out the ends.  I need to solder the steps on first (as I won’t have access behind afterwards) then can solder the 3 layers together.  If all goes to plan tomorrow night I will have a basic coach body...

 

Edited February 2, 2021 by The Fatadder

[Siberian Snooper]

Who makes the kit? Please.

 

 

[The Fatadder]

20 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said:

Who makes the kit? Please.

The kit is an old Mallard / Blacksmith example (etches only) to which I have a set of 247 developments bogies and plan on adding an MJT roof.

 

Before work this morning I soldered the droplights into position.  I also noticed that one side has distorted (it has a rotation through the side).  I am not overly happy with the fold over on the top flange (my fault as I dont have a long enough set of bending bars and hence end up forming it an inch or so at a time).  Now thinking about cutting the flange off completely and instead soldering on some 0.5mm brass strip (along the same route I followed with the A22 First)  

 

I still absolutely hate forming the tumblehome, one side is a lot better shaped than the other! its fortunate that you will only ever see one side on the layout!

[Siberian Snooper]

Many thanks,

 

When life gets back to normal and shows start happening again, I will see if you know who has a set at the next Railwells.  Bogies are less of a problem as I can get them from Brian at 247 by post if necessary, assuming he has them in stock.

 

 

[The Fatadder]

24 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said:

Many thanks,

 

When life gets back to normal and shows start happening again, I will see if you know who has a set at the next Railwells.  Bogies are less of a problem as I can get them from Brian at 247 by post if necessary, assuming he has them in stock.

 

 

I have had much the same thought about looking for more bits, one candidate to be the next on the workbench once this coach is finished is a Toplight third built from sides/ends/roof that were sourced from 'him' at a previous RailWells.   Fingers crossed that this years show can go ahead, certainly looks promising with the latest charts projecting first vaccinations to be complete by May.  

 

The big advantage of now having to work from home is of course that I can get on with some modelling through my lunch brake.  So I have managed to get on with a little more work on the sides.  As mentioned previously I wasnt happy with the mess that I had made of forming the top flange onto which the roof mounts, and had a feeling this was the cause of the rotation in the sides.  On further inspection it reveals a bit of awful design, in that the fold line is on the outside meaning you would end up with a gap between the roof and the side once fitted.   

The solution to both issues was to remove it, then take a length of 5mm by 0.5mm brass strip and solder along the top edge.  This gives a much better fit, eliminates the raised edge (visible in the top side on the below photo), and did a good job of straightening out the side.  The same process will need repeating on the other side this evening.

 

I am still in two minds as to what I will do with the lower flange, if it was a passenger coach I would find a way of fitting a Comet floor.  But given that it doesnt need much of an interior, I am half tempted to have a go at finishing as Mallard intended and see how I get on, though a lot will depend on how good the solebar looks.  My current thinking is to fit the top to the upright on the solebar as a sub assembly and then solder into position.  I have a feeling that this might be easier to do prior to building up the core of the coach.      

 

Edited February 3, 2021 by The Fatadder

[St Enodoc]

7 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

I have had much the same thought about looking for more bits, one candidate to be the next on the workbench once this coach is finished is a Toplight third built from sides/ends/roof that were sourced from 'him' at a previous RailWells.   Fingers crossed that this years show can go ahead, certainly looks promising with the latest charts projecting first vaccinations to be complete by May.  

 

The big advantage of now having to work from home is of course that I can get on with some modelling through my lunch brake.  So I have managed to get on with a little more work on the sides.  As mentioned previously I wasnt happy with the mess that I had made of forming the top flange onto which the roof mounts, and had a feeling this was the cause of the rotation in the sides.  On further inspection it reveals a bit of awful design, in that the fold line is on the outside meaning you would end up with a gap between the roof and the side once fitted.   

The solution to both issues was to remove it, then take a length of 5mm by 0.5mm brass strip and solder along the top edge.  This gives a much better fit, eliminates the raised edge (visible in the top side on the below photo), and did a good job of straightening out the side.  The same process will need repeating on the other side this evening.

 

I am still in two minds as to what I will do with the lower flange, if it was a passenger coach I would find a way of fitting a Comet floor.  But given that it doesnt need much of an interior, I am half tempted to have a go at finishing as Mallard intended and see how I get on, though a lot will depend on how good the solebar looks.  My current thinking is to fit the top to the upright on the solebar as a sub assembly and then solder into position.  I have a feeling that this might be easier to do prior to building up the core of the coach.      

 

Glad it's you building this and not me!

[The Fatadder]

1 hour ago, St Enodoc said:

Glad it's you building this and not me!

So far it’s been a mix between really enjoying it and absolutely hating it. There’s a few bits of really clever design, a few where bits haven’t etched fully through and a few (like the base for the solebar being attached to the bottom of the sides) where you just think what on earth made them do that.

 

that said I am making progress, after replacing the top flange on the other side I decided the best thing to do was adding the solebar.

 

so I soldered up another sub assembly joining the vertices and horizontal  parts of the solebar with the footstep.   These were then soldered in place on the side.  I test fitted the floor spacers, and it appeared one would foul the solebar tabs.  So I filed a recess on both sides of the part to clear the tab.

I should have cut off the lower flange for the solebar (which also had the fold line on the wrong side) before forming the tumblehome.  I didn’t correct it as I was concerned about damaging either the side or the part when removing it.  But you can see the fold in the lower side here 

 

the next job was the ends, annoyingly these have steps on both ends for some reason, and on both sides of the corridor.  So there are 16 steps to add!  I have finished the first end (mostly because if I did the other I would be too tempted to carry on and solder the body together!)  with the steps soldered in place, I filed back the tabs to provide clearance for the false end.

I have decided the solution to the ends is using 2 layers of scrap feet soldered together as a spacer, meaning one flat inner end and the outer detail etch formed to shape.  (I will try to take a photo to show this clearer tomorrow once done).  That should get be two more subassemblies and set up the core construction.

[Neal Ball]

That carriage is going to look great in the train speeding through Brent, even if it was a ***** to build! Although as ever you are making a good job of it Rich.

[The Fatadder]

The first end assembly was finished this morning before work, adding the 3 spacer pads before soldering the detail piece to the rear plate.  With that done I added a seam of solder along the lower joint between the bottom of the tumblehome and the backing plate for the headstock,  With that done I opened up the holes for the buffers, pressed out the rivets and soldered the headstock overlay into position.  This highlighted a slight alignment issue, the two part sides are fractionally out of alignment which is highlighted on the headstock (which needs to be unsoldered and reattached in an adjusted position on the right hand side.

on to the second end steps at lunch, may even get the body assembled this evening...

Edited February 4, 2021 by The Fatadder

[Siberian Snooper]

It seems to be an odd way to go about doing the ends, I have just had a look at a David Geen stowage van kit and the ends are double thickness, but the headstock is a separate piece that  is attached to parts that fold down from the floor. A lot better idea I think! Time will tell when I get around tuit.

 

 

[The Fatadder]

38 minutes ago, Siberian Snooper said:

It seems to be an odd way to go about doing the ends, I have just had a look at a David Geen stowage van kit and the ends are double thickness, but the headstock is a separate piece that  is attached to parts that fold down from the floor. A lot better idea I think! Time will tell when I get around tuit.

 

 

Possibly an over convoluted way of doing it, but it avoids a task which I really didnt want to do.  I really dont like forming the tumblehome, and having already done it 4 times on this kit I really didnt want to have to do it twice more, particularly when that additional curve (at (a) ends next to the backing etch for the headstock.  The logic was that by having a straight piece and spacers between it and the curved end I still get the extra strength in the end, but make it a little easier in the assembly (and reduce the amount of forming).  The inner end also contains the floor as a fold up (though this broke off on the first end) further complicating the forming, again I wanted to keep this in place.  The moment of truth will come tonight when I finally attach the completed assembly to the coach sides...

 

At lunch I finished off the other end so they are now ready for fitting to the sides, all being well  I should have something which looks like a coach this evening.  Then just need to wait for the roof to arrive from MJT (and get the castings ordered from Comet).

 

 

Edited February 4, 2021 by The Fatadder

[Siberian Snooper]

The M15 stowage van ends are very similar, with the added joy that the turn under on the sides is 240mm long, being a 70ft vehicle. The big difference is that the  solebars and head stocks fold down and then have etched overlays, I won't be looking forward to adding the solebar overlays.

 

I am looking forward to having a go though, it will be my first David Geen kit, but I need to get some shelf queens finished first and that needs the world to come out of lockdown so that I can get back into the clubroom as all my gear is over there.

 

 

[The Fatadder]

A bit more after work, once again showing up how messy my soldering is.  My soldering technique is very much along the lines of apply a lot of heat, and a lot of solder!  (And only to clean the resulting mess up if it’s visible or interfering with another part.

 

not a lot left to do now, with the underframe truss, battery boxes, vents above doors and bogies still to add.  The remaining work (roof, buffers, vac cylinders/dynamo) all need to be ordered.

 

the partition wall is loose fitted for the moment, mostly because I still don’t know how well the MJT roof will fit.  It the fit is bad I will just remove the partition as one less bit to file to shape.

[Kris]

Really interesting to see what you are doing with the K18. I have an O gauge version sat in a cupboard waiting to be built. I also have a 2mm Blacksmith kit to build. Neither have instructions so seeing your method is helpful.