twiggy1969 Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 hi ive built a dartcastings /falcon brass 6 wheeled cct but have no info on running numbers or weight limits ect done a search but cant even find a picture of one real or model anyone point me in the right direction thanks mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted January 15, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) If you mean the Rhymney one. well done. I have had one part built for years, seem to have lost most of the castings and extra etched bits and put it to one side to complete "one day".. There was just one prototype, No 36 (despite what the instructions claim). There is a drawing by Mike Lloyd (pages 82 and 83 of Rhymney Railway Drawings (WRRC/Lightmoor), but I know of no photos. The GWR renumbered in 40 and it was condemned in 1925. Mike's drawing whows the lettering to be LOAD NOT TO EXCEED 5 TONS On the lower right hand corner of the side. There is no sight of any tare weight. By the way, I seem to remember that the instructions claim that some of the vans had different windows. As there was only one that is obviously not true and the windows of the kit match the drawing. And an omission from the kit seems to be the end vents - to say nothing of the fact that the end actually had double doors so there are no hinges or door handle either. I obviously can't put the drawing up here but PM me if you would like a scan from the book. Jonathan Edited January 15, 2017 by corneliuslundie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
twiggy1969 Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 thanks thats very helpful mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
twiggy1969 Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 work so far 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
twiggy1969 Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 the dartcasting kit has the vents and hinges 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium M.I.B Posted January 15, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2017 Nice CORDON. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Oooooh....I want one ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
twiggy1969 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 printed these and have to say for my 1st ever attempt at printing transfers im happy needs a bit of touching up of the grey around the edges and a weather 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
twiggy1969 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 roof and under frame painted just need to give a light weather and a coat of varnish and fix the glazing the water slides really look ok from a couple of feet not so good close up but once weathered sure it will be fine 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium NCB Posted January 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 22, 2017 Wondering how you printed the transfers. They look pretty good. The edges might disappear if you tried a waterslide transfer softner like Microset or Microsol. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
twiggy1969 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Hi NCB the numbers and not to exceed is printed as a grey background on white paper on some waterslide i got from ebay inkjet The RR is laser cut from some white waterslide that i have from Chiltern Modelling Services with signal arms printed on and is laserjet and i guess much thinner both have had the micro sol used but the RR seems to have set in much better that said from 2 foot looks fine and with a bit of daily muck on it will be much better mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted January 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 22, 2017 It looks good. How did you deal with the centre axle? Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
twiggy1969 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 once layout built i intend on having 3 foot minimum radius so built as per kit but if i have problems ill remove the center flanges or will fit brassmasters cleminson underframe Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted October 23, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 23, 2018 Coming back to this. I eventually found the castings and etched bits so am nearly there. Yes, there are vents and end door hinges. I still haven't found a photo. Both the instructions and Mike Lloyd's drawing show the main lettering as 3 ft high but I am afraid that I am going to cheat and use 10 mm HMRS PO wagon lettering transfers. That, of course, will bring out he photo we have all been looking for to prove that I have got it wrong! Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
twiggy1969 Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 Coming back to this. I eventually found the castings and etched bits so am nearly there. Yes, there are vents and end door hinges. I still haven't found a photo. Both the instructions and Mike Lloyd's drawing show the main lettering as 3 ft high but I am afraid that I am going to cheat and use 10 mm HMRS PO wagon lettering transfers. That, of course, will bring out he photo we have all been looking for to prove that I have got it wrong! Jonathan i now have a alps printer so could do waterslide for you if you so wish thanks mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighty1674 Posted October 25, 2018 Share Posted October 25, 2018 Hi there Mark.........I have been following this article and have corresponded with Jonathon and he has kindly sent me the drawings that he has......the transfers also seem to be elusive to find but I would certainly be interested if you are doing some transfers....regards. Dave... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
twiggy1969 Posted October 25, 2018 Author Share Posted October 25, 2018 Hi there Mark.........I have been following this article and have corresponded with Jonathon and he has kindly sent me the drawings that he has......the transfers also seem to be elusive to find but I would certainly be interested if you are doing some transfers....regards. Dave... Hi Dave yes i can sort some transfers out and seeing your a Shepton lad that wont be a problem seeing as im originally from Ditcheat we were once neighbours mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighty1674 Posted October 27, 2018 Share Posted October 27, 2018 Hi mark.......I will pm you my details.......regards.....Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 Anybody have the instructions to this van, please? I started building the body about four addresses ago and in the ensuing moves the instruction sheet has gone AWOL Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium corneliuslundie Posted May 9, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 9, 2020 For what they are worth the Falcon Brass instructions are atteched. See my comments above about errors in the prototype info. Jonathan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 (edited) Any ideas on underframe (vacuum?) Cylinder(s) if any ? Positioning etc? Edited May 10, 2020 by lofty1966 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 Re: center axle. I have built a van with Cleminson system. It works well enough but if you want to add underframe detail you have to do some thinking: Ex Hornby 6 wheeled LMS Insul Milk van. Chassis was scratchbuilt. I think the Cleminson might have been Slaters. Brassmasters do one as well. Ex Hornby GWR Palethorpes Sausage van. Again with a scratchbuilt underframe. This has an alternative approach to the center axle and much simpler than Cleminson. I credit Bill Bedford with showing this to me (don't know who invented it). Replace the center axle with 2mm brass tube of appropriate length. Use 1mm steel rod as a carrying axle that the sleeved wheels slide to and fro on. Can't help with gubbins under your RR van but the mechanisms tended to be similar. Note the milk van has brakes on all wheels while the GWR van has brakes on the outer wheels only. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lofty1966 Posted May 10, 2020 Share Posted May 10, 2020 1 hour ago, brossard said: Re: center axle. I have built a van with Cleminson system. It works well enough but if you want to add underframe detail you have to do some thinking: Ex Hornby 6 wheeled LMS Insul Milk van. Chassis was scratchbuilt. I think the Cleminson might have been Slaters. Brassmasters do one as well. Ex Hornby GWR Palethorpes Sausage van. Again with a scratchbuilt underframe. This has an alternative approach to the center axle and much simpler than Cleminson. I credit Bill Bedford with showing this to me (don't know who invented it). Replace the center axle with 2mm brass tube of appropriate length. Use 1mm steel rod as a carrying axle that the sleeved wheels slide to and fro on. Can't help with gubbins under your RR van but the mechanisms tended to be similar. Note the milk van has brakes on all wheels while the GWR van has brakes on the outer wheels only. John Not quite correct John. There are single shoes on the centre wheels operated by a Morton lever. I'm going to use a sprung centre axle using a 2mm brass tube as an inside bearing. This should then allow sufficient side play and stop the vehicle rocking on the centre wheels. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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