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Red Damsel - A Super Detailed Slater's Quarry Hunslet in 16mm Scale


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There we go, wagon No.1 complete (almost). The bamboo skewer axles will be replaced with silver steel ones once it arrives. (I've bored the wheels out to 1/8", and am doing away with the stepped axle and cast ends as supplied as it just looked ridiculous up close) 

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I've been following your thread for some time, and there's some excellent work going on. An interesting subject.

......and what a fantastic little wagon!!

 

Regards, Deano.

 

It's going to look great when slathered in Rustall (or equivalent!)!

 

Today I have had the Unimat out again, creating first off a hole in the bottom of the boiler large enough to pass the JST connector through and secondly, routing the pcb attached to the middle spacer. As you can see it moved whilst putting the gap through the middle! Not to worry, it's on the front face of the spacer and barely visible even when up close once fitted. 

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Red Damsel came with some nominally 1mm copper wire for the pipework, it's far to crooked (and oversize) for that so I've been using short lengths, only about 2mm, in the rubbish wagon. Using my punch and anvil it deforms nicely into a rivet with better results than the brass rod I also tried (it was too hard).

Do you have a councillor?

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Well true to form I milled the spacer upside down, so back to the mil and a couple of scrap etch bridging pieces later, the middle spacer is done. It is now soldered into the chassis along with the wiring connector to the electrics in the boiler. 

 

 

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All parts now removed from the fret - the end of construction is in sight, although I've run out of 1mm brass rod and M0.6 nuts and bolts so those are on order. The motor with the iffy coupling is en route back to Slaters. 

 

Here we have the chassis  as it stands - just awaiting the 1mm rod to solder up the brake gear (using 0.75mm here to mock it up). The rear most cross shaft will be left loose so that the brake gear can all be removed to drop the wheels out. 

 

You may also note a slight modification to the compensation beam - I've threaded one end of it so that it is also removable in the event of wear causing the front end to sag. 

 

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Edited by Quarryscapes
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New crankpins on the way, the 1/8" bushes are nominal diameter, as my rods have already been reamed for the supplied pins and bushes I'll be making the bushes fit the rods. The bushes will be phosphor bronze and the pins will be silver steel. 

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The Rubbish Wagon is done! I've been having trouble finding suitable rustall type products, so I opted to use my 4mm painted rust techniques and tried to scale them up a bit, it worked quite well but I need to find a really matt varnish to finish it, after Vallejo matt acrylic there's too much sheen even though it's a really dusty finish, it doesn't look it. 

 

For those interested, painting was quite a lengthy process. After the usual scrub with Cif, the whole lot was blacked with brass black. Then cleaned again, then primed with Precision Grey etch primer. 24 hours later then I moved to the acrylics. All the acryslics are sprayed in very light spotty dusty coats in patches, not nice smooth even coats. First Panzer grey surface primer all over, then an indian red, then desert sand and speckles of mud brown. Sepia wash was used in between each colour, and then when the whole lot had reached the desired colour and pattern was sloshed all over. Finally a dusty coat of matt varnish, but as already described it's not matt enough. 

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New motor arrived from Slaters today, along with a note confirming that there was a silent revision to the 8:1 motor. My new one is 22:1, and runs much better. 

 

 

Also just arrived, the Bronze brake standard, which looks every bit as good as the turned one. Better in fact by virtue of it incorporating the bracket for the drain cock operating rod. 

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New motor arrived from Slaters today, along with a note confirming that there was a silent revision to the 8:1 motor. My new one is 22:1, and runs much better. 

 

 

Also just arrived, the Bronze brake standard, which looks every bit as good as the turned one. Better in fact by virtue of it incorporating the bracket for the drain cock operating rod. 

 

 

That looks so smooth and a lovely runner!  Do I take it that the standard motor is an 8:1 then now, but that Slaters will supply a 22:1 if asked?

 

Rich

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Yes they'll be supplied with 8:1 as standard. Apparently garden users find 22:1 too slow, I can understand that if running on a  PP3 battery in the boiler but not when built as intended with power through the rails. I'm not sure what figures Faulhaber is peddling in their datasheet, as when I plug their values into the scale speed calculator I get a max possible speed of 4mph, which is not what you get in reality at all, with an 8:1 motor 4mph would be difficult to attain as a minimum speed! 

 

Here's the new brake standard vs the old...

 

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Apparently garden users find 22:1 too slow, I can understand that if running on a  PP3 battery in the boiler but not when built as intended with power through the rails.  

 

Have you seen how fast some people run their 16mm scale trains in the garden?  My own theory is that the speedy characteristics of live steam locos have probably conditioned many garden railway owners to think that there is nothing wrong with a small narrow gauge 0-4-0T rocketing along at 40+mph.  All very strange for people who have worked their way up from the smaller scales and spent many a happy hour tinkering with locos to get ever-better slow running. And it's not just live steam - the scale top speed of my brass 16mm scale Double Fairlie is probably closer to 50mph than the 20 and 25mph limits of the FR and WHR respectively.

 

I am absolutely loving your build - very inspirational.  Thank you!

 

David

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Sorry if I missed it, where did the new brake standard come from?

 

Me - it's available through my Shapeways shop. 

 

Have you seen how fast some people run their 16mm scale trains in the garden?  My own theory is that the speedy characteristics of live steam locos have probably conditioned many garden railway owners to think that there is nothing wrong with a small narrow gauge 0-4-0T rocketing along at 40+mph.  All very strange for people who have worked their way up from the smaller scales and spent many a happy hour tinkering with locos to get ever-better slow running. And it's not just live steam - the scale top speed of my brass 16mm scale Double Fairlie is probably closer to 50mph than the 20 and 25mph limits of the FR and WHR respectively.

 

I am absolutely loving your build - very inspirational.  Thank you!

 

David

 

No but I've seen how fast Red Damsel could go with the old motor, it would give my Greyhound a run for his money if it could stay on the rails long enough! Flat out now is about 15-20mph, which it never needs to see. 

 

I took the rubbish wagon to the full sized quarry today to measure some it's brethren...

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Progress has stalled a bit on the Damsel, trying to decide if I want to add the rather prominent front flange to the boiler. You see, there is a massive gap between tank and smokebox on the model, partly due t shrinkage of the massive casting and partly due to the omission of the flange and its rivets. 

 

I've also been sidetracked by turning that little wooden board that's been appearing under the loco in pictures into a more interesting display plinth. It now sports prototypical Dinorwig track, Balsa wood sleepers with Slater's chairs and Cliff Barker rail fixed with wooden keys. The rail is too small really, so I won't be using it for real running lines but it'll do for this small display piece. 

 

I've also been refining my rust with with a few washes of AK streaking rust. 

 

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It's going to look good with a Hunslet on in the middle of the table! 

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Guest Isambarduk

"... trying to decide if I want to add the rather prominent front flange to the boiler."

 

Yes, you absolutely must!     David

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Hi Quarryscapes,

 

Fantastic work here - I'm really enjoying catching up with it. With regard to the colour - have you thought about putting a lacquer coat over plain red oxide? There are various shades of red oxide and perhaps with a satin coat, it might look about right?

 

Just a thought...

 

All the best,

 

Castle

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Anyone who likes pristine should look away now ... and probably never come back! 

 

I absolutely love 16mm scale - there is no way I could get paint effects this good in smaller scale. Airbrush + Cotton bud and a scrap of scotch brite. 

 

 

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