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Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins


Corbs
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On 28/12/2020 at 23:33, Corbs said:

Indeed :lol:

 

Don't know about 'pugs' but this is definitely a 'bash'. Currently I am trying to make 2 x Toy Story bodies into a lesser-spotted Hammerhead Locomotive.....

 

The cab will likely not be permanent!

 

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Looks like something found drawn on a beer mat in a pub after Frank Webb and Bob Fairlie had a mammoth session on the sauce. Double ended 4 cylinder, state of the art for 1880

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13 hours ago, 33C said:

An auction site recent purchase. the chassis is modified "Nellie" but the body is made from what appears to be parts of an old, bakelite radio! See what bits you can identify........20201231_191415.jpg.2fa30cd88900a6b4bec1bcbeb2d1df7a.jpg

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Has the look of a home-made, steam-outline loco off a miniature line :)

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56 minutes ago, Ben B said:

 

Has the look of a home-made, steam-outline loco off a miniature line :)

 

Alternatively, the builder's six year old was asked to draw "a nengine" using crayons, and they then built exactly what was drawn for them! It has a childlike charm!

 

HOURS OF FUN!

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On 31/12/2020 at 14:02, Sophia NSE said:

The plasticard I'm using is 1 mm so still pretty flexible at the moment. Should be more rigid once the motor and its mounting are in place

I would recommend using the Airfix/Dapol kit frames. I have made a couple of Schools class using Triang wheels with brass tube bushes, Plasticard rods and kit valve gear.  This L class is on Airfix Schools chassis, bashed L1 boiler with Hornby tender drive under scratchbuilt tender body. More Mash than Bash!

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25 minutes ago, 33C said:

I would recommend using the Airfix/Dapol kit frames. I have made a couple of Schools class using Triang wheels with brass tube bushes, Plasticard rods and kit valve gear.  This L class is on Airfix Schools chassis, bashed L1 boiler with Hornby tender drive under scratchbuilt tender body. More Mash than Bash!

20201029_010312.jpg

What's the wheelbase on the plastic frames?

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Not my bash, but a friend's from many years ago, which he's sending me along with a loco body and two wagons. He's improved massively over the years. I think I'll try and just scrape of as much of the old paint as I can and redo it in brunswick green. Obviously will redo quite a few bits, but I'm stuck as for what to do with where he covered up the old bunker. It was done with model filler, would I be able to just scrape it off?20210107_182521.jpg.403b72300d9879ccbe09c15faf58ddad.jpg

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1 hour ago, tubs01 said:

Not my bash, but a friend's from many years ago, which he's sending me along with a loco body and two wagons. He's improved massively over the years. I think I'll try and just scrape of as much of the old paint as I can and redo it in brunswick green. Obviously will redo quite a few bits, but I'm stuck as for what to do with where he covered up the old bunker. It was done with model filler, would I be able to just scrape it off?20210107_182521.jpg.403b72300d9879ccbe09c15faf58ddad.jpg

Might be able to just pop it off depending on the filler.

Alternatively you could try building a bunker on the back? Make it your own.

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1 hour ago, tubs01 said:

Not my bash, but a friend's from many years ago, which he's sending me along with a loco body and two wagons. He's improved massively over the years. I think I'll try and just scrape of as much of the old paint as I can and redo it in brunswick green. Obviously will redo quite a few bits, but I'm stuck as for what to do with where he covered up the old bunker. It was done with model filler, would I be able to just scrape it off?20210107_182521.jpg.403b72300d9879ccbe09c15faf58ddad.jpg

Hi Tubs,

 

Rather than try to scrape the paint off you might be better to remove the body and pace it into some Dettol for a couple of days after which you ought to be able to wash off the paint residue in warm soapy water with an old tooth brush. I f any paint is left on after this then just repeat the process.

 

Gibbo.

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Many years ago, i cut up a Hornby LBSC E2 to make this J50 because i could not find a Lima one cheap enough to detail. About a week after i had finished it, a friend gave me a loco he found at a boot-sale cheap. (Can you guess what it was..........grrrr.) Different livery on each side as i can only see one side at a time on the layout!

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2 hours ago, 33C said:

Many years ago, i cut up a Hornby LBSC E2 to make this J50 because i could not find a Lima one cheap enough to detail. About a week after i had finished it, a friend gave me a loco he found at a boot-sale cheap. (Can you guess what it was..........grrrr.) Different livery on each side as i can only see one side at a time on the layout!

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That's a lot better than the Lima monstrosity.   I bet it actually pulls rains.   Logically you should now use the J50 Tanks and bunker with a Bachmann 04 chassis and part of the boiler to make a Q1.

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20 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

 

That's a lot better than the Lima monstrosity.   I bet it actually pulls rains.   Logically you should now use the J50 Tanks and bunker with a Bachmann 04 chassis and part of the boiler to make a Q1.

The Lima one does detail up well! Got the inspiration from an article in one of those part-works magazines. Bigger balance weights, welded patches, pipework, glazing, coal and light dusting. And a crew to hide the motor!

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20210113_003718.jpg

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21 hours ago, 33C said:

The Lima one does detail up well! Got the inspiration from an article in one of those part-works magazines. Bigger balance weights, welded patches, pipework, glazing, coal and light dusting. And a crew to hide the motor!

20210113_003538.jpg

20210113_003718.jpg

 

I tried to make a Kitson out of one a few years ago. 

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On 13/01/2021 at 00:45, 33C said:

The Lima one does detail up well! Got the inspiration from an article in one of those part-works magazines. Bigger balance weights, welded patches, pipework, glazing, coal and light dusting. And a crew to hide the motor!

20210113_003538.jpg

20210113_003718.jpg

Hi all,

I have several of the Lima J50's plus a couple of Lima Panniers waiting in my boxes for such upgrades What I would like to know is has any one tried connecting the middle wheels to the conrods rather than letting them continue to freewheel. If so how did you do it and did it work out ok.

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