RMweb Premium Compound2632 Posted February 15, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 15, 2021 Both those 0-4-4Ts have the ring of truth about them. Superb work. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 3 hours ago, Your neighborhood GWR diesel said: That actually offends me. Good job though! My work here is done! 2 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 3 hours ago, Compound2632 said: Both those 0-4-4Ts have the ring of truth about them. Superb work. Just need to decide what colours to paint them 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 (edited) Some more work on the details of my fireless loco. Strips of plastic card wrapped about the exhaust pipe to indicate joints and brackets. You can also see my attempt at making cylinders more on that below. People have said the Hornby Smokey Joe pug chassis could be used to motorise a model such as this but it is far to big, The LY pug would be better but even that is a bit too big. But so far this is a static model. I tried to get the size correct as theses locos where generally smaller than an open coal wagon. tried to get the dimensions from this old photo from Graces Guide website. Details like this refill pressure valve where a pipe from the boiler house would be attached and high pressure steam pushed in. Could hunt down and send off for a nice but expensive brass casting from somewhere or a detail part from some other kit but I've knocked up this from metal tubes and plastic tubes and a little plastic disk punched out of a sheet of green plastic card. Simple and when painted who will know? Edited February 15, 2021 by relaxinghobby corrections 12 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 Sequence of building up cylinders From a strip of plasticard I cut a set of rectangles to match the cylinder length, then filed a V grove down the middle of two of them with a corner edge of a file, C, this is to locate the cylinder and form a better mechanical contact for the glue to hold. The rectangles are about ¾ mm thick I built up a tower of three in stages allowing a few hours between each stage for the glue to firm up. Prepare the inner tube Tubes usually come in a system where the different sizes will telescope inside each other. I must have an odd set of both Plastruct and Evergreen perhaps. The inside of the middle one had to be drilled out to 2mm, B, a slight re-bore by gently turning the drill with a pin chuck, before the inner tube would fit inside it. All this is working with the middle tube as a long piece so it is easier to hold, a slit is then made with a knife on opposing sides, A, the slit is made into a slot wide enough to fit a pin in. So several cuts with a sharp knife to carve enough of the material away. I've used pins for slide bars I could use square wire if I had some. A piece of the inner tube is cut to match the outer tube length, All the bits are fitted together after sloshing some solvent about, middle tube into outer then the inner-tube is pushed in a mill or two, then the pins go in then push them altogether and leave somewhere ventilated for the solvent to dry of, like for 24 hours before you trim every thing down to the size of the 5 mm outer tube which represents the cylinder cover of the loco. The pins stick out of the front for the required amount depending on the throw of the crank, I guessed mine at 12mm some of the pins stick out of the other end so I will have to trim them off with a piercing saw or jewellers saw when the glue is completely set. 6 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamsRadial Posted February 15, 2021 Share Posted February 15, 2021 20 minutes ago, relaxinghobby said: I will have to trim them off with a piercing saw or jewellers saw when the glue is completely set. From bitter experience I'd not go that route, the sideways movement ends up working things loose in plastic. A slitting disk in a dremmel-type tool is going to put far less sideways strain on the work. 1 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Your neighborhood GWR diesel Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 23 hours ago, Sophia NSE said: My work here is done! r/ATBGE on Reddit. Look it up. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold tomparryharry Posted February 16, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2021 On 14/02/2021 at 16:26, Sophia NSE said: GWR fans of a sensitive disposition may want to look away now! That's pretty good indeed. There are a lot of pre-group 0-4-4 examples to use, being a fairly common wheel arrangement. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 1 hour ago, tomparryharry said: That's pretty good indeed. There are a lot of pre-group 0-4-4 examples to use, being a fairly common wheel arrangement. For some reason it's my favourite wheel arrangement. Big tender engines generally don't do it for me 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Your neighborhood GWR diesel Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 1 hour ago, Sophia NSE said: For some reason it's my favourite wheel arrangement. Big tender engines generally don't do it for me Same here. I like tank engines and diesel shunter s best. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 Thanks AdamsRadial but I felt confident that with a sharp blade a piercing saw could make a good and neat job of cutting off the metal ends. And I don't like the noise of the cutting disk and rarely ever use mine. Waiting for the glue to set and firmly hold all the plastic parts tight together. The pins where a tight fit and did not twist all. Sawing off the metal part the trick is the blade has to be finer than the thickness of the metal and I always tension the blade in the saw frame by tapping the blade gently with a piece of wood to tension the blade. You can hear the pinging note of the blade getting higher as each tap increases the tension. Currently another layer of plasticard is being glue to the cylinders to space them clear of the wheels. This has meant I had to remove the cab steps as they got in the way. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 25 minutes ago, Your neighborhood GWR diesel said: Same here. I like tank engines and diesel shunter s best. Tank engines and *ahem* 3rd rail electric units for me 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGemAlchemist Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 2 hours ago, Sophia NSE said: For some reason it's my favourite wheel arrangement. Big tender engines generally don't do it for me For me it's more 0-4-0s and 0-6-0s. I like me some small tank engines. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 I wouldn't mind having an ancient 2-4-0T knocking about 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlfaZagato Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 I like big ugly things myself, with odd wheel arrangements. Suppose that's me being American... 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 I knocked up a plasticard bogie for the rusty tank Just need a little fettling to get it to sit right Next thing is to build a bogie for the GWR effort 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 As promised/threatened. Need to find some buffers for it now 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
33C Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, Sophia NSE said: Tank engines and *ahem* 3rd rail electric units for me Have you tried the MERCO lithograph sheets? I used some damaged Triang coaches, old Hymek class 35 chassis with the extra pick up bogie and just glued them straight onto the (sanded smooth) sides and these are the results. 6PUL and 4COR. Won't win any prizes but each set came in under a tenner. Edited February 17, 2021 by 33C added detail 13 1 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted February 17, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2021 Wow, - 'litho' coach sides. I like. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
33C Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 27 minutes ago, Annie said: Wow, - 'litho' coach sides. I like. Thanks, they still turn up on ebay now and again. There are about 30? different types in O and OO gauge, EMU, Underground, Coaches and wagons! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted February 17, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2021 3 minutes ago, 33C said: Thanks, they still turn up on ebay now and again. There are about 30? different types in O and OO gauge, EMU, Underground, Coaches and wagons! I used to make 'O' Gauge coach lithos when i was member of the Hornby Railway Collectors Association (HRCA) so I'm a big fan of lithos. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 On 15/02/2021 at 17:42, relaxinghobby said: Some more work on the details of my fireless loco. Strips of plastic card wrapped about the exhaust pipe to indicate joints and brackets. You can also see my attempt at making cylinders more on that below. People have said the Hornby Smokey Joe pug chassis could be used to motorise a model such as this but it is far to big, The LY pug would be better but even that is a bit too big. But so far this is a static model. I tried to get the size correct as theses locos where generally smaller than an open coal wagon. tried to get the dimensions from this old photo from Graces Guide website. Details like this refill pressure valve where a pipe from the boiler house would be attached and high pressure steam pushed in. Could hunt down and send off for a nice but expensive brass casting from somewhere or a detail part from some other kit but I've knocked up this from metal tubes and plastic tubes and a little plastic disk punched out of a sheet of green plastic card. Simple and when painted who will know? Are you aware of this book by Oakwood Press? There are drawings included, one of which is the 'standard' Barclay type. If you are after dimensions, I could scan it and PM it to you (for personal use of course). I've got a 3D printed body which I found at an exhibition and is designed to fit a Pug chassis. It's about the same length as a standard 12T van. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Popular Post papagolfjuliet Posted February 19, 2021 RMweb Gold Popular Post Share Posted February 19, 2021 (edited) This week's evening project: 'Bramblewick,' an Edwardian light railway 0-6-0. Tri-ang 3F body with the cab filed down, Hornby Jinty chassis trimmed to fit, GBL C class tender body, Mainline Scot tender chassis, Narrow Planet nameplates, Precision NER brake van red oxide paint, HMRS LNER coach transfers. BCR stands not for Bishops Castle Railway but for an imagined line connected with another Shropshire castle, namely PG Wodehouse's Blandings. 'Bramblewick' is the name given to Robin Hood's Bay in the novels of Leo Walmsley. The coach is a butchered Hornby 4 wheeler mounted on a Lima HO BR brake van chassis to give a suitably low ride height, and is awaiting oil pots and final fitting of the roof. Edited February 19, 2021 by papagolfjuliet 19 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Your neighborhood GWR diesel Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 4 hours ago, papagolfjuliet said: This week's evening project: 'Bramblewick,' an Edwardian light railway 0-6-0. Tri-ang 3F body with the cab filed down, Hornby Jinty chassis trimmed to fit, GBL C class tender body, Mainline Scot tender chassis, Narrow Planet nameplates, Precision NER brake van red oxide paint, HMRS LNER coach transfers. BCR stands not for Bishops Castle Railway but for an imagined line connected with another Shropshire castle, namely PG Wodehouse's Blandings. 'Bramblewick' is the name given to Robin Hood's Bay in the novels of Leo Walmsley. The coach is a butchered Hornby 4 wheeler mounted on a Lima HO BR brake van chassis to give a suitably low ride height, and is awaiting oil pots and final fitting of the roof. Great work! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
33C Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 6 hours ago, papagolfjuliet said: This week's evening project: 'Bramblewick,' an Edwardian light railway 0-6-0. Tri-ang 3F body with the cab filed down, Hornby Jinty chassis trimmed to fit, GBL C class tender body, Mainline Scot tender chassis, Narrow Planet nameplates, Precision NER brake van red oxide paint, HMRS LNER coach transfers. BCR stands not for Bishops Castle Railway but for an imagined line connected with another Shropshire castle, namely PG Wodehouse's Blandings. 'Bramblewick' is the name given to Robin Hood's Bay in the novels of Leo Walmsley. The coach is a butchered Hornby 4 wheeler mounted on a Lima HO BR brake van chassis to give a suitably low ride height, and is awaiting oil pots and final fitting of the roof. Looks the part! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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