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Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins


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23 hours ago, relaxinghobby said:

A Nellie bash, well on the way.  It gets less Nellie towards the front. Bachmann USA 4-4-0 tender loco provides the underpinnings.

 

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Cute. Looks like one of the Highland Railway tanks.

 

2 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi all.

Big fanfare to introduce the new and imaginary improved 2-10-0 Stanierstien..... lol

 

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DSC_0907.JPG

That looks really natural and really cool actually. Like something Stanier would actually design.

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19 hours ago, sir douglas said:

very Lynn & Fakenham

 

19 hours ago, Ben B said:

That is very pretty! I wonder if you could incline the cylinders further for a Beyer Peacock sort of a look too?

How to modify cylinder angle maybe?

The area between the two dotted lines is a plastic saddle that holds the two cylinders. Above and below are two metal chassis extensions, coming forward from the main chassis and it's all held together by a vertical screw indicated by the arrow.

 

chassisfront.jpg.c7b438a42939ab78ed381db4e948a626.jpg

 

The cylinder saddle could I suppose be filed to an angle and packed out with washers or a wedge shaped piece of plasticard and securely held in with that screw. A mechanical modification that some may be confident to try to get that inclined cylinder Metro tank Beyer Peacock look. Although the chassis is a bit small for one of those?

 

 

 

 

44otMGNRPullmanA.jpg.ed273ae2a697fe5dcf0b8ccb2d6fa07a.jpgMy inspiration is this MGNR tank, is this a Lynn and Fakenham engine.

 

The donor engine is one of these an H0 Baldwin 4-4-0 by Bachmann from a second hand stall back when exhibitions happened.

 

440BaldwinFromBachmann.jpeg.f1cc3bef358e8a6a7d35b406ecac1c30.jpeg

 

Which provides a modern chassis with two stage gearing and lots of brake detail and those yummy cylinders and valve gear.

H0 stuff is surprisingly small compared to 00, I though this loco could be made into a small UK type branch line 4-4-0 tender engine, but back home I found in practice with it's 18mm wheels and 25mm wheel base it is small enough to fit inside a Polly/Nellie body shell.

 

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1 minute ago, relaxinghobby said:

 

How to modify cylinder angle maybe?

The area between the two dotted lines is a plastic saddle that holds the two cylinders. Above and below are two metal chassis extensions, coming forward from the main chassis and it's all held together by a vertical screw indicated by the arrow.

 

chassisfront.jpg.c7b438a42939ab78ed381db4e948a626.jpg

 

The cylinder saddle could I suppose be filed to an angle and packed out with washers or a wedge shaped piece of plasticard and securely held in with that screw. A mechanical modification that some may be confident to try to get that inclined cylinder Metro tank Beyer Peacock look. Although the chassis is a bit small for one of those?

 

 

 

 

44otMGNRPullmanA.jpg.ed273ae2a697fe5dcf0b8ccb2d6fa07a.jpgMy inspiration is this MGNR tank, is this a Lynn and Fakenham engine.

Oh, God. How did I not notice a local (to me) engine? Derp.

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3 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi all.

Big fanfare to introduce the new and imaginary improved 2-10-0 Stanierstien..... lol

 

 

 

 

Stanier? How did you pass up the opportunity to call it the Big Riddler? ;) 

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On 10/08/2020 at 16:58, RedGemAlchemist said:

Oh, God. How did I not notice a local (to me) engine? Derp.

These little loco's and their owners the Lynn and Fakenham where quickly absorbed by larger and larger railways and ended up in the Midland and Great Northern Railway and survived into the 1930s. There were seven of these, the one in the photo with the old Pullman coach had been lent to the Midland Railway for trial push pull trains.

 

You  can try and unpick the complexity here      https://www.lner.info/co/MGN/locomotives.php

 

A loco like this would be realistic on any imaginary light railway or industrial network.

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i've had a bit of a think, come up with 2 things that would be pugbashable.
A killin pug, can be easily made from a nellie cab and a normal Hornby smokey joe pug
An 0-6-0 L&Y pug, which can be easily made from 2 pug kits (heck will probably build one myself soon)
image.png.7ee93fdd6bca756d243a492cb1c9d2bd.pngimage.png.c25a3ca18269f774da15b119be42b0c6.png

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54 minutes ago, Captain Pugbash said:

i've had a bit of a think, come up with 2 things that would be pugbashable.
A killin pug, can be easily made from a nellie cab and a normal Hornby smokey joe pug
An 0-6-0 L&Y pug, which can be easily made from 2 pug kits (heck will probably build one myself soon)
image.png.7ee93fdd6bca756d243a492cb1c9d2bd.pngimage.png.c25a3ca18269f774da15b119be42b0c6.png

 

Looks good. For the 0-6-0, how do you propose to do the chassis (assuming it’s motorised so the plastic kit chassis is no good)?

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I swear there used to be a kit for the Killin Pug - Dean Sidings maybe? - using the Hornby CR pug in some way. I remember the first Hornby Magazine I bought years ago now had a 'how to article' on it and I was really tempted but never did follow up on it. 

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52 minutes ago, Frappington Jct said:

I swear there used to be a kit for the Killin Pug - Dean Sidings maybe? - using the Hornby CR pug in some way. I remember the first Hornby Magazine I bought years ago now had a 'how to article' on it and I was really tempted but never did follow up on it. 

There used to be one, it was indeed dean sidings, only used the chassis of the Hornby (caley) pug

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58 minutes ago, 009 micro modeller said:

 

Looks good. For the 0-6-0, how do you propose to do the chassis (assuming it’s motorised so the plastic kit chassis is no good)?

won't be motorized just cutting and glueing the plastic chassis/siderods and just have it as a nice little static

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1 hour ago, Captain Pugbash said:

Here's the more refined 0-6-0 pug as i intend to build it, just pretend the lettering and number are the correct LMS font, used gill sans as a placeholder109714142_2391116067864209_5220549668034573816_o.jpg.2398665e481b84bd796358b9441e99d5.jpg

 

Did you need to add the extra axle just to make it long enough to fit the nameplate?

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Rather stylish for a loco of its kind, but unusually proportioned. My suggestion would be to make the boiler/tank section a bit shorter, thereby enabling the cab to go forward a bit and make room for a bunker.

 

The loco as-drawn could probably shunt all day without needing to take water, but need to stop for more coal every couple of hours. The opposite is/was usually preferable.  

 

John

 

 

 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

Rather stylish for a loco of its kind, but unusually proportioned. My suggestion would be to make the boiler/tank section a bit shorter, thereby enabling the cab to go forward a bit and make room for a bunker.

 

The loco as-drawn could probably shunt all day without needing to take water, but need to stop for more coal every couple of hours. The opposite is/was usually preferable.  

 

John



how about a seperate coal tender? (bit like the CR pugs sometimes did)

 

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6 hours ago, Dunsignalling said:

Rather stylish for a loco of its kind, but unusually proportioned. My suggestion would be to make the boiler/tank section a bit shorter, thereby enabling the cab to go forward a bit and make room for a bunker.

 

The loco as-drawn could probably shunt all day without needing to take water, but need to stop for more coal every couple of hours. The opposite is/was usually preferable.  

 

John

 

 IIRC the bunkers are inside the cab sheets on the real 0-4-0 version.  Would it not make more sense to add extra bunkers to the front of the cab, to increase the capacity of the existing bunkers?

 

Alternatively, you could turn the cab side sheets round, so the entrance and steps are over the rear driver, moving the long part of the cab side with the number on to the back. That would give plenty of room for a large bunker the full width of the loco.

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I guess a lot of the 0-4-0 configuration was dictated by the short overall length. Extending from the middle to add an extra axle doesn’t look right to my eye (although I’d say the same of more than a few prototypes that did exist too).

 

I guess conventionally you would centre the firebox between the rear two axles and the front of the cab would sit slightly ahead of the rear axle (which is more or less as shown above). Then if there’s enough space for the coal bunker to fit at the back of/behind the cab, it would go there.

 

Would be tempted to shorten the water tanks back and expose the smokebox to improve the proportions although you might then be looking at a lot more scratchbuilding or an alternative donor for the smokebox and chimney.

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