Auto couplings, inexpensive and work.

[bertiedog]

It was in connection with a purchase of Ebay of an old Sayer Chaplain kit of parts for a GWR Prairie that I came across the answer to an old mystery.

 

I have been looking for auto couplings or three link couplings for my Industrial layout. Even three link are a bit expensive, and fitting them to modern RTR is difficult with the solid floors they use today. Locos can be problematic with small ones like the Hornby Peckett, no space to fit sprung shanks etc.

 

The mystery revolved around some wagons I had seen at Hamblings in the 1970, I think they were Sayer Chaplin kits, all made up and fitted, I was told at the time with an Auto coupling.

 

It was very simple looking but I never got a chance to really look at them closely, and the wagons were sold anyway. I did come across a packet of these couplers crushed in the bottom of an old crate of Sayer Chaplin parts. I remember trying to figure out how they worked, but this was 40 years ago, and I could not remember the details.

 

I searched for Sayer on the net and found an old listing from RM web of 2014, when I was not following the web at the time

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/92655-sayer-chaplin-auto-couplings/

 

The Sayer Auto coupling looks exceptionally simple, a wire comes from under the wagon floor centre, under the buffer beam on the centre line, and ends in a curious half arrow head, with a short return wire,

 

Credit Hayfield from original posting in 2014

 

The whole head is about 4.5 mm long, and there is a drop wire soldered to the main wire, which is the un-coupler.

 

THE FULL INSTRUCTION SHEET

Credit Hayfield from original posting in 2014

 

At first from the photo from an old post, it looks like the half spear head faces upwards, but when two heads approach each other they would never engage, just go past and back as reversed.

 

The same applies if the spear head is downwards or side ways, nothing works.

bit I have had experience with making magic trick equipment, and suddenly realised that the head is set over at 45 degrees on each wagon or locomotive.

 

Now the engagement works fine, as the meet they ride up over each other and then snap in line with the triangle making the pulling face, and the small wire stops the disengaging.

 

They will remain locked together under tension, they cannot come apart, but if one of the dropper wires is raised they instantly disengage as the loco reverses to uncouple.

 

Now this seems very simple but is quite well thought out, as you can also lift any wagon out of a line with a slackening of the tensions.

 

Also as only one or the other pin has to be raised, a fixed spearhead on the loco is all that is needed to work.

 

I made a cardboard large scale one and it tests perfectly, the coupling can be out of line a bit as they touch, allowing for curves etc, and the distance they are coupled apart is adjustable to suit the layout.

 

The only down side is that they rely on the buffers to push the stock, but this is no different to using chain link couplings.

 

After thinking about it it is like the wire couplings that can push, ( forgotten the name of them), but simpler to make, it barely needs a jig.

 

I make no claims to originality in the design, it comes from the past, but seems to be a forgotten product.

 

The other point, and it is an important one is the very very low cost of making them, you only need a  roll of hard brass wire, and some scraps of thin brass for the head plus screws to attach to the underside of the wagon. The cost must be the lowest of any auto type of coupling, it must just be a few pennies.

 

A very odd point is that the coupling works in two ways, the heads can be above the wire, or below, as long as all are the same. It is the 45 degree angle that makes it work.

 

I do remember that a friend once commented on Sayer Chaplin couplings but he had no illustration to show them, and he said they worked very well, but were a bit delicate.

 

The spear head could get bent over etc, or the wire from the underside bent, but easy to put right, and the appearance in use is very good, as there is so little to see, especially if painted black.

 

I will knock up a few sets in the morning and fit to the wagons and a spear head only pair to one of the Pecketts to test it all out.

 

The brass wire can be straightened and hardened by pulling and twisting till it is straight and springy. I will find some thin brass shim to make the point shape fill in, they can be oversized to solder on and then reduce wit a abrasive wheel in a Dremel to the correct smooth fit.

The original has a brass plate to mount it on the floor underside, but I think shaping the wire as a paperclip will provide the same mounting, with washers to spread the grip. Still fully adjustable though..

 

Uncoupling is done by a small rising plate from the track, like any uncoupler, or it can be the old type curved clear plastic, both would work, but the rising pillar with a plate or disk would be best. It only needs to raise the dropper about 3 mm to release.

 

More to come after a few tests and experiments.

 

Stephen

Edited March 4, 2017 by bertiedog

[bertiedog]

Better Cleaned up view of the instructions.

 

 

Credit Hayfield from old post in 2014

 

I will draw out a fuller plan of the coupling and the estimated uncoupler required, which could be manual or on a solenoid. The rise is really very small, and could be done with a shunting pole, and remember stock can be lifted upwards to uncouple, try that one with Hornby!!

 

Stephen

[bertiedog]

As a friend has read this and commented he did not see how they worked, please note the tips are all set over the same way on each end to 45 degree, this is the total secret of how they engage as they hit each over, the wire deflects easily and the heads snap together.

• When only one of the droppers, (either will work), is raised and the coupling pushed the heads are released and will pull past each other as the loco moves off.
• They will not uncouple if both wires are raised at the same time.
• And they cannot uncouple in normal operation, they are locked by the shape of the head
• .But if slacked off a wagon can move upwards to manually remove it.

None of this works with the Hornby coupling, its only advantage is that it can push stock along without risking buffer lock..

 

First test show it allows closer coupling than Kadees, which really do not work with buffers in place on tighter curves.

 

It also seems to work closer than three link does, and is adjustable anyway.

 

Stephen

[Grovenor]

Looks to be pretty much the same principle as an Alex Jackson. The gathering range will be rather small unless a larger head is fitted.

Regards

[bertiedog]

Looks to be pretty much the same principle as an Alex Jackson. The gathering range will be rather small unless a larger head is fitted.

Regards

Yes about the same but must be earlier design, and the Jackson are more difficult to make accurately.  The pick up angle does seem small but it is on the centre line and if on a straight or a constant curve they will always meet.Even forcing the wagons sideways in opposite directions does not case the tips to miss.They also do not mind being a bit low or high, better than the Jackson allows for., or at least as good.

 

I have fitted four wagons and one of the Pecketts out with them, and so far they function very well indeed, no missed engagements at all. Once coupled they will not part at all under loads, and the buffers prevent to much movement that would release them when slack, except if the dropper is operated or the wagon lifted out of the rake of stock..

 

I had used the Jackson coupling in the past and the Sayer exceeds it in ease of making and operation. The first have been made with soft solder attaching the dropper wire, but I will do a batch with silver solder to compare. I filed the end of the dropper flat to wrap around the top wire before soldering it on.

 

The reason for the silver solder is that it leaves the whole thing ready to plate with black nickel, which does not work well on soft solder. other than that they can simply be painted black.

Stephen.

Edited March 1, 2017 by bertiedog

[bertiedog]

I have thought of another mod, and that is to add a second wire back along the course of the first, soldered to the tip area. and run under the wagon to a tiny neodymium magnet, this would cause the magnet to descend over an electromagnet and release the coupling under slack, but it would need a magnet each end and each would be attracted in some way, resulting in both ends uncoupling together.. might not be practical to work with, but.......

 

However a tiny 1mm magnet could go on the dropper, and be repelled by an electromagnet to cause release...............

 

In the meantime back to making the first batch to provide a fuller test. They look very nice on the wagons, you can barely notice them, just like the far more complex Jackson.

 

As the wire runs under the buffer beam it should be possible to leave the three link in place as well if you wanted, by cranking the wire to clear it.

 

At least this design in home buildable and cheap, and knocks spots off the Hornby or Bachmann types.

[bertiedog]

Earlier test showed the head to best at 5mm face, which allows for the wagons to be out of line by just under that amount. Oddly the pickup area is sort of round in shape due to the crossed faces at 45degrees. To get better gathering up as they pass it would have to be increased to about 6 mm but wagons do not move sideways that much.

 

I have not been able to find a wagon type it would not fit, especially as one end can be fixed, the other being relied on  to move. This makes fitting to locos a very simple affair, just drill up into the buffer beam, and glue the wire, then bend it forwards.

 

Bogies on coaches seem as easy, just mount it on the bogie centre line. It is not like the Jackson, where the mounting is hinged on some versions.

 

Stephen.

[How about a Dictator Loco Class?]

Oh wow that's interesting!

In November I'd spent quite some time designing and manufacturing loads and loads of alternative couplings.

The exact 45 degree coupling you mentioned was one of the designs I thought up. That design started from an idea with swivelling interlocking vacuum pipe varients.

My laptop is off otherwise I'd post pictures.

Maybe you could interlock a pair in a picture for those with challenged imaginations? (-:

 

I've got pictures on my phone of upside down couplings and single a single piece ABS plastic version of the standard OO NEM couplings. As the coupling hooks so often annoy me by falling off. It worked well obviously when made and tested. (Obviously as it was such a basic and 95% standard design)

Edited March 1, 2017 by How about a Dictator Loco Class?

[BG John]

Can you have delayed uncoupling with these? That's an advantage of AJs, although I've never got round to trying them.

[bertiedog]

The Sayer Chaplin will not work with delayed action, although the design could be stretched to duplicate the Jackson, but then why not use the Jackson.

 

Stephen.

[bertiedog]

I have been racking what brains are left these days to try to remember where I saw these Sayer Chaplin Couplings in operation on a layout, and I think it must have been at the MRC London Central Hall shows about 1969-70, where there was a layout with various systems on display, and Sayer type were there, although the Sayer Chaplin name was not used.

 

The rake of wagons with them fitted was at Hamblings Cecil Court shop in about 1972-3, and Jim Howard identified them as Sayer Chaplin, and said that Hamblings had wholesaled them in the 1940's. He had later bought the remains of Sayers stock on Sayers closure.

 

Several people had commented on them in the shop and wondered if they were still made. The general opinion of those who claimed to have used them was they worked very well indeed.

 

The reason I knew about the principle is that it is used in some magic tricks to get an object to connect instantly with another, but release instantly on command. The tiny wires used are near invisible on stage. The railway version can be made from .5mm brass, or similar or use the Guitar steel than Jacksons design uses, which is about .2mm or less. I found that some guitar wire rusted, despite being plated, so prefer brass or nickel silver wire. Brass wire is cheap in rolls and easily straightens up and hardens by twisting it and pulling.

 

Stephen.

[DCB]

Those look really easy to replicate with a few old paper clips and a bit of solder.   I don't know about the Tension lock having the advantage in propelling, I find them absolutely hopeless compared to the H/D Peco ones I use.  I always wondered about using the standard N gauge coupler in 00 but I reckon if you use pin point axle bearings and wide back to back to keep the buffers in line then propelling should not be an issue with wagons and when I get ten minutes I will be experimenting with a very similar design.  

[stevejjjexcov]

I will follow with interest as I am undecided as which auto couplings to use. I have tried Alex Jackson and Sprat and Winkle but both have a down side. This may be what I need.

 

Would they work the same if the hook was pointing down? With a dropper wire and a static magnet buried below the ballast. Then they would uncouple downwards instead of having to raise the hook to uncouple. Just a thought.

Steve

[Izzy]

I will follow with interest as I am undecided as which auto couplings to use. I have tried Alex Jackson and Sprat and Winkle but both have a down side. This may be what I need.

 

Would they work the same if the hook was pointing down? With a dropper wire and a static magnet buried below the ballast. Then they would uncouple downwards instead of having to raise the hook to uncouple. Just a thought.

Steve

 

I believe a very similar type of basic coupling called the Electra has been used in 2mm circles for a considerable number of years both with static and electro magnets. This uses a pivoting wire hook with droppers and I think the latest version has delayed action, but I'm not sure. It was in the 2mm mag a few years back now and it seems the design has evolved over time. I do know that Mick Simpson uses them on his Wansbeck Road layout and there is a video on youtube.

 

Izzy

Edited March 2, 2017 by Izzy

[2mm Andy]

I do know that Mick Simpson uses them on his Wansbeck Road layout and there is a video on youtube.

 

Izzy

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GczrPHBl82E

[Torper]

I've been very happy with Dinghams autocouplers - they're cheap (£12 for enough to equip 20 vehicles), they're pretty unobtrusive and they fit on the bufferbeam just like the prototype.  Auto uncoupling with suitable magnets though they'r also easy to uncouple manually. Only downsides are that they're a little bit fiddly to make and they're single handed.

 

DT

[bertiedog]

Magnets are a bit of a problem with these Sayer Chaplin types, as to uncouple only one of the tips must move, if both move then they remain firmly coupled.

 

This is why they are good for locos, the loco one remains fixed, and only the other has to raise to unlock.

The whole system could be reversed to allow the dropper to be pulled by a magnet, but it is just as easy to repel a magnet, so why bother?

 

Remember only one side has to be raised to release not both droppers.

 

I have had a long talk about these couplings with a friend who once used them. He uses Jackson now, but reckons the Sayer worked very well as a basic auto coupling.

 

The cost must also be a major factor...... £12 would do hundreds of wagons, dependant on the cost of the wire, and making sure it is thin enough, I reckon .5m is ample. Costs rise if nickel is used, or guitar steel strings wire is used

 

The mounting plate is the problem, but can be got around by making the end a loop, with two screws through it at the same positions.

 

But it can be as simple as bending the end at right angles, and gluing into a hole in the chassis floor.

 

In theory there is nothing against making an adaptor plate to go into an NEM sockets, with the wire soldered to it, cranked a bit to get to the right height.

 

Anyway.... I will do more experiments tonight and take some shots tomorrow. These may be part graphics as the item is so small to take pictures of that to show real details.

 

Stephen

[bertiedog]

Those look really easy to replicate with a few old paper clips and a bit of solder.   I don't know about the Tension lock having the advantage in propelling, I find them absolutely hopeless compared to the H/D Peco ones I use.  I always wondered about using the standard N gauge coupler in 00 but I reckon if you use pin point axle bearings and wide back to back to keep the buffers in line then propelling should not be an issue with wagons and when I get ten minutes I will be experimenting with a very similar design.  

The builder must remember the wire has to bend to operate on the Sayer, and paper clips would not bend!!! The size seems to be .4 /.5 mm in brass, and .2mm in guitar steel string. The brass wire must be soft to start with and stretched and twisted to harden it, and make it springy.

Nickel silver does not need this, and ,4mm is the size to use.

The jig to make them is very very simple, it is nothing like the Jackson jigs.

Stephen

 

The Old Peco/Hornby Dublo was a very good design, but could have been reduced in size etc.

[bertiedog]

Bit more experiment tonight, and my vote for the wire to use is the guitar wire as per Jackson, although the brass works as well, as does the nickel, if you can get them cheap enough, and nickel wire is never cheap.The guitar wire is steel with a nickel plate, so takes solder, and the ends that are cut can be fluxed and wetted with solder to rust proof them.

 

One comment that came up in conversations about these couplings in general is the fact that your not pulling the wagon from the end, but the middle, which may upset the running a bit. I think that only applies to older style wheels that well not coned and could run out of line a bit. The complaint was made mainly against the Jackson, as some setups pull the far end, and can indeed force the wagon to run a bit crabbing and out of line.

 

I do not think this applies to the Sayer as it tows from the middle of the wagon floor and modern tyres keep the wagon straighter  to the track.

 

Anyway enough have been made to cover the needs of the new Brewery Industrial railway, and these couplings fit in with the Hornby Pecketts very well indeed, you hardly notice them on the loco.

 

Stephen

[bertiedog]

The drawings may make the tips shape and operation clearer. The front angle does not really matter just make it about the same on all at 40degrees. The twisted over half spear head is set at 45 degree, or it does not work well. Pull keeps them locked, slack does not free then, but will allow stock to be lifted or the dropper to push one or the other upwards and break the connection as the loco moves away.

 

 

 

 

The whole term Auto Coupling must be understood in terms of the1950's.... it is auto in that you do not have to touch the stock to uncouple, all done remotely and re-engagement is automatic as they push together. It does not offer the chance to push the stock after uncoupling.

 

Although the wires run on the centre line it is best to bias them in the side direction of the twist about 1.2 to 2mm, it makes sure they engage and ride other each other. If they were truly in line the tips would touch, and not operate, but in the real world this cannot happen.

 

All stock must weight something, ballast may be needed, a light weight wagon will lift with the coupling and derail.

 

Stephen

[bertiedog]

 

The Hornby W4 040 Peckett with a Sayer Chaplin coupling in place, and even in brass looks very small, in black it would look invisible, no mods to the Peckett apart from 0.4mm hole above the NEM pocket,.....could it be easier or cheaper? Even still engages with the hook of the Hornby coupling, and even takes the links from a three link coupling as well, cannot get more universal that that. The links are held by the short wire spur over the top of the Sayer.

 

Remember that the Loco coupling does not have to move, it is the other one that moves.

 

Stephen

[RexAshton]

These look way too fragile for anything other than a permanent home based layout. I remember some years ago being next to a layout using these at an exhibition. All weekend one of their team was behind the layout adjusting and resetting couplings. I agree they worked very well some of the time. Surely if you're fitting automatic couplings instead of using three link the most important consideration is not cost but reliability. Many yeasr ago I went over to DG couplings and have never regretted it.

[bertiedog]

With due respect to operators at exhibitions, which I have done myself, it is the individual that may cause problems with any couplings or items on a layout. Once set correctly only damage that should not happen will upset these.

Exhibitors often over extend themselves and risk not being able to deliver a display smoothly or precisely.

 

It is a matter of carefully realising the limits of operation and coming in under the limits,

 

I really cannot see the limitations being exceeded with these couplings, there is so little to go wrong. I doubt any coupling is stronger, I tested the pull before it bent and it took 10lbs to bend it out of true, way beyond the tractive effort of most 00 locos.

 

• When secured to a wagon, the wire cannot be stressed enough in any direction to cause it to take a new position.

 

• Side to side is limited by the back to back of the wheels, and down movement is limited by the axle.

 

• Upwards is limited by the buffer beam

 

A direct blow to the tip should not happen in operation, it misses buffer stops,  and if it hits stock the buffers take the blow.

Only accidents that would also damage other couplings would disable these, such as dropping on the floor.

 

I have seen layouts on display where it has taken 45 minutes to get DCC to run at the correct settings, this does not mean DCC is at fault, it was just a risk of mixing two owners stock not being tested together.

 

I must say it is more likely that the Jackson type goes out of adjustment as they are many mounts and methods of fitting, with and without hinges etc., and adding complexity to any engineering solution adds variables tat raise problem risk.

I gave upon  the Jackson as I could not get consistency of operation good enough for me.

The mounting is critical, the head angles are critical, they are too delicate, ans simply may not match another builders couplings.

 

Being simpler the Sayer lowers the risks to acceptable limits, looks better than some, and cost is rock bottom.

 

Dependant on the exact stock involved, the NEM socket may need to be removed completely, or the wire cranked around it. they would fit all kit wagons, plastic, wood or brass, Dapol Airfix, Kitmaster, Cambrian, or home made wagons.

 

To make a stock of parts the spear head can be made on say a three inch wire to allow it to be cut as needed to fit the stock wagons, locos or coaches. That's it apart from the mounting varying with circumstances.

 

Stephen

Edited March 3, 2017 by bertiedog

[bertiedog]

I can only see one minor issue, the rigid mounted loco coupling might be prone to bend, so use a thicker wire to make the spear point, say 1mm thick to prevent any bending, The spear only sticks out about 6mm from the buffer faces, dependant on the limits chosen for the curves on the layout.

On P4 the head could be set to prototype distant apart on chains ans still operate properly. In 00 the spear can be set farther out to allow curves to about 16 inches, and remember this type cannot unlock under tension.

 

I think that Sayer Chaplin got the design right first go, and it has simply been forgotten by time, not problems.

 

Stephen

[bertiedog]

A minor issue with the fixed loco version is that you cannot double head with auto couplings, in this case the loco must have moving couplings, but there is an answer, use the thee link chain to couple manually.

If like the Peckett there is no space to allow the full coupling movement then you could use the very springy guitar wire, and add an omega loop to the back of the spear head to give it movement. It still does need a dropper added to get remote uncoupling, adding complexity.

I would live with double heading using the three link chains manually.

 

Stephen.