charliepetty Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Has any one had issues with Q6s jamming up at slow speed, as I have three here and its not the coupling rods catching!! Charlie Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 We have two and no issues so far, are you running on DC or DCC? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Market65 Posted March 8, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2017 I have two Q6's. Both have had to have the pick-ups on the two centre driving wheels removed. On doing that they have since run perfectly at all speeds. Before investigating the running issues, they were both, equally, 'lumpy' at all speeds on uneven or curved track. I hope this will be of some help. Best regards, Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Has any one had issues with Q6s jamming up at slow speed, as I have three here and its not the coupling rods catching!! Charlie Yes. Both of mine have done it before. I had a good look at them and couldn't seem to find anything wrong. Like you I thought it might be the motion, but it all looked ok. They have only been used on a test track so far, having been chipped and then awaiting a chance to run them over distance. Any advice on this would be welcome. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Yes.... The problem I had was the resister on the DCC plug base. as the power rose the resister could not cope and got progressively hotter (this was the loco running normally and then progressively getting slower as the heat increased) . This was only resolved when I had the tender top off and by accident felt the heat (OK it burnt my finger) on the resister. I removed the resister and bridged the PCB with a piece of brass wire. to no ill effects as could change the settings on the DCC chip so the loco couldn't break the sound barrier! Can you tell us if you are using DCC or DC but the symptom is the same. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted March 9, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2017 Are you sure it was a resistor and not the capacitor? This is the thread I started a while ago regarding Hornby's new-style DCC socket. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/104041-new-style-Hornby-dcc-blanking-plug/ Which bit did you remove and bridge? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 I would think bridging a capacitor would cause a dead short, wouldn't it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Flying Pig Posted March 9, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 9, 2017 Lambton58 and I found that the sandpipes had a tendency to catch on the track, particularly over points. They need to be adjusted closer to the wheels to clear the railhead properly. Easy to test if this is the problem by unclipping them from the keeper plate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Are you sure it was a resistor and not the capacitor? This is the thread I started a while ago regarding Hornby's new-style DCC socket. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/104041-new-style-Hornby-dcc-blanking-plug/ Which bit did you remove and bridge? It was the one with a printed R1 on it so I assumed that it meant it was a resistor. As SRman said if it was a capacitor it should have been a dead short. Now this was located in the PCB which is the socket. Ie not the bit you remove for the chip to be plugged in! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Mine hasn't been running long enough to get hot, unless its the current being drawn through for the DCC Sound decoder which is causing a heat issue. Mine has litterally been tested to run and moved a bit before then appearing to jam. Would removing the resistor then lead to a greater chance of frying the decoder? I haven't noticed as they have been sat around for sometime waiting for the chance to be chipped and arrived via mail delivery. So basically I'm needing to effect repairs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted March 9, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 9, 2017 Mine is running on DCC and has exhibited none of the symptoms above. Its a good smooth positive runner at all speeds. Will hopefully be sound fitted at some point (something I only do with runners I am sure of!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted March 10, 2017 Share Posted March 10, 2017 Ok Dave, seems to be a different problem to mine. Another problem area is to check that the lubricator drive is functioning correctly. Sounds like you might need to get the screw drivers out and take the beast apart. If you need to get the loco body off be careful that the reversing leaver doesn't get caught on the boiler bottom as you are trying to separate the body and loco chassis. You can rotate the motor by a finger which might show up where the issue is. If you can't locate the problem it might be best to return to the seller which is what I should have done with mine as it had 3 issues, 1 the resister stopped the loco working, 2 the loco only picked up from one side and 3 the motor it self ran hot. Thankfully all of these issues eventually were resolved. 1 resister removed 2 a jumper wire was soldered to the pickups to by pass the non working plunger thingy, and. 3 the motor was pulled out looked at a few times which bizarrely seemed to solve the issue with the motor running hot... it is still warm but not so hot as to feel it must be on the limit of melting the loco body! Good luck with the investigations! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Any other news on how these models are sticking? Tried mine again and its still stopping when getting underway. Motor looks like it wants to turn. Theres a buzzing noise from the model and the wheels seem to stop. Moving them when you can get to them seems to push it past what ever is stopping it. Could that be a cog? Or something else jamming the motor or wheels? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
YesTor Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Theres a buzzing noise from the model and the wheels seem to stop. Moving them when you can get to them seems to push it past what ever is stopping it. Could that be a cog? Or something else jamming the motor or wheels? I've experienced this on other locos from time-to-time, and in most cases it has proved to be nothing more sinister than the drying up of the gear oil, usually on a model that hasn't been used, or has been in storage for some time. A small amount of oil and a little patience while 'working it in' and everything running as smooth as silk once again. Might be worth a try? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 I've experienced this on other locos from time-to-time, and in most cases it has proved to be nothing more sinister than the drying up of the gear oil, usually on a model that hasn't been used, or has been in storage for some time. A small amount of oil and a little patience while 'working it in' and everything running as smooth as silk once again. Might be worth a try? 63398 has been on trial again on the test track for the last few days. First of all the same problems occurred. The engine would get under way, youd hear the sound start and the wheels move. It would creep forwards as the drive engaged, then proceed for a bit. As it got underway it would then jam. Again, the buzz of the motor was heard, sounding as if the motor wanted to turn but something was jamming the motion. With the top off the same happened. A prod of the motor suddenly pushed it past the jam and it got underway again. The sound of the chip matching the expected movement of the engine as if it had not stopped - meaning the engine thinks its running as it should be. Troubleshooting started. Thinking the motion might be the cause I loosened slightly the bolts on the main coupling rod, to the driving rod. This worked a little bit, but then led to no real change. So it wasn't that. Taking off the bottom of the model and inspecting the wheels it was found that the main cog area on the axel of the driving wheel with the driving rod was covered in oil. Rather than dry out it seemed that the thickness of the oil itself was eventually piling up and causing the motion to jam. Pushing it freed the cog and allowed the oil to be moved before presumably piling up again. Wiping away this excess improved running quality and the engine started to run in as normal. The engine is now running much better although does jam again very occasionally. I plan to repeat this, wiping away only a little to free what's left as think that should solve the issue. 63395 is next for some TLC. Hope that helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
YesTor Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 (edited) Taking off the bottom of the model and inspecting the wheels it was found that the main cog area on the axel of the driving wheel with the driving rod was covered in oil. Rather than dry out it seemed that the thickness of the oil itself was eventually piling up and causing the motion to jam. Pushing it freed the cog and allowed the oil to be moved before presumably piling up again. Wiping away this excess improved running quality and the engine started to run in as normal. The engine is now running much better although does jam again very occasionally. I plan to repeat this, wiping away only a little to free what's left as think that should solve the issue. Ahhh, indeed, so perhaps a case of "too much oil being as bad as too little"! Still, at least it sounds as though you have now established the root cause of the issue and will know where things are going wrong when/if it happens again. On a positive note at least it's something relatively trivial and easy to fix. Sometimes when things seize up we jump to the worst possible conclusion when quite often it is something very minor causing the headache. Good luck with the gear oil! Edited May 17, 2017 by YesTor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougN Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 I have a new issue on my Q6... which is very very disturbing. The motor is getting so hot a "gloss pimple" has appeared on the boiler. This indicates the motor is getting so hot as to radiate heat to one location and soften the plastic. I have yet to investigate by pulling the entire thing apart (again) But I would suspect that this located around a brush location. I wonder if Hornby would accept it as a warranty claim? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MatthewCarty Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 I have a new issue on my Q6... which is very very disturbing. The motor is getting so hot a "gloss pimple" has appeared on the boiler. This indicates the motor is getting so hot as to radiate heat to one location and soften the plastic. I have yet to investigate by pulling the entire thing apart (again) But I would suspect that this located around a brush location. I wonder if Hornby would accept it as a warranty claim? I would think that would be covered under warranty, (as long as it is in the time period). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 Even outside of the time period, if it is a manufacturing fault, the warranty still stands. The MAZAC rot is a case in point, where it may not show up for several years. It may be harder to prove a manufacturing defect in a motor, though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Black Hat Posted June 13, 2017 Share Posted June 13, 2017 Happy to report that my Q6, 63395 ran perfectly over the weekend at the Shildon exhibition. 63398 needs some TLC still... Will post pictures soon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted September 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 5, 2018 I've started to have problems with my Q6. Though it glided along at first I've noticed a tendency to stop intermittently and run at two distinct and different speeds for the same controller setting. Nothing appears to be catching, wheels and track are clean. Back in the workshop and with the body off I connected leads to the motor terminals and let it run on blocks. Again I experienced two speeds for the same controller setting, the motor note would drop and the wheels revolve more slowly. There doesn't appear to be any mechanical binding but the motor is running hot. Suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted September 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 5, 2018 Motor bearings or gearbox issues would be my first place to look. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted September 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 5, 2018 Thank you Johnster, since posting I've taken the motor out of the chassis and I believe it's the source of the trouble. Next problem is to locate a spare. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted September 6, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 6, 2018 Push the chassis along gently by hand to 'feel' for tight spots while you've got the motor out, Niel; it may be that a bit of a bind somewhere has overloaded the motor in service and possibly damaged the bearings; it should have lasted you much longer than this unless you are running it at prototypical loadings and mileages. Peter's Spares would be my first port of call for replacement motor. I'm 'monitoring' this thread as I think my 42xx has a similar mechanism; it has not exhibited this sort of problem yet but I have had issues with the slide bars, and bits falling off! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted September 11, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 11, 2018 Just to update; I scoured the internet for a spare Q6 motor and failed to come up with one. I then contacted Hornby by e-mail to enquire about their availability, today I got a reply saying that they had a batch on order due this December or early next year. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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