Jump to content

The Bigbee Line

Ernies 7mm Wagons - Card again

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I finally found something to make some wheel bearings.   I'm sure I have lots of pieces of small tube, these are hiding somewhere...

These are what I can find, some bootlace ferrules. 

 

D16195BC-E06B-48C4-A325-EC80D4A883B4.jpeg.9f9eae7d7b06459d7509b4dbeb9d6567.jpeg

 

F94AC096-2D6D-4DAB-9A50-4936B922051D.jpeg.50ff11757f9e612909bc5cef4fe72c79.jpeg

 

A short piece is cut off for the bearing and it slips over the axle end quite nicely.

 

FAF3C1C4-AD70-4B28-9C07-542109AC4291.jpeg.2b0863e5f6316f5c0e6af31e27f17a06.jpeg

 

2A0F4454-73BF-4078-99D0-8DEAB8B32DFE.jpeg.6a764ead984169961de4c1500418921a.jpeg

 

There is scope to vary the position in the axle guards.  I will 'blank off' the inner end with a wrap of thin foil from a Kit-kat wrapper, then when ready to 'set up' put a small blob of solvent/plasticard mix into the hole on each axleguard and push the bearings in with the axles, the quickly assemble the solebars to the wagon, adjust the axle to be level and at the right height (In this case I want it at the bottom of the hole to lift buffer height slightly), then leave for at least 24 hours.  Providing it is OK, an voids between the bearing and axleguard can be filled.

 

 51CD3F99-FAC7-4C39-8703-949914782E41.jpeg.cab92fbcf58fc068442ed0a9aed2760e.jpeg

 

BE51EC5A-C8F6-4246-AA0B-905D89DD5DCE.jpeg.6526c355555e7337422a674965a59e78.jpeg

Edited by The Bigbee Line
  • Like 2
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Posted (edited)

Here is a table of AWG showing wire diameters.  The Bootlace ferrules are available in 'even' AWG sizes....  They are plated copper, so we will see how they wear.  I've no mileage turns, so should be OK as a stop gap, plus they will be greased before operation (To lubricate and prevent any tendency for the bearing journal to rust).

 

AWG.jpg.a5a7f160c648ec8f182069f86a00568d.jpg  199875137_AWGFerrules.jpg.d37b97caf6ac82c11a25962f079fb3f3.jpg

Edited by The Bigbee Line
  • Informative/Useful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve created a ledge for the solebar support to slide under.  With other parts of interlocking styrene, the solebar will slide in from the outside. Hopefully just requiring a single discrete pin to keep it in position. 

 

90814163-D7F0-45CF-95BD-38B0447DD712.jpeg.e13f827f07e1591eac3ed84230899db9.jpeg

 

286F6C33-D035-4AA4-8036-D156064AF7B7.jpeg.a7ba7f74cbbc81da2f45d10abbbaa128.jpeg

 

6DB02547-E46B-4E0E-A7B7-759F07555168.jpeg.04406cecf2a79fcbfb75673466031e04.jpeg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't use grease or oil it will attract dirt and make things worse. Use powdered graphite. Much better for wagons coaches.

  • Thanks 1
  • Informative/Useful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
51 minutes ago, N15class said:

Don't use grease or oil it will attract dirt and make things worse. Use powdered graphite. Much better for wagons coaches.

 

Thanks,

 

i have a puffer pack purchased years years ago for Yale locks. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

I put my chosen wheelsets (with thinner than usual journals) into a battery drill and gave them a Polish. Also de-rusting the rims and axle. 

Having a brainwave I took some of the kit-kat foil and placed two small circles on a cut section of tube and smoothed the outside around the tube. That thickness when pushed into the axleguards was “just right”.

 

The wheels turn but have the right amount of resistance. 

 

40D9D1D7-EAF7-4D3D-BF20-FA156374B7F1.jpeg

 

Starting to look the part now. 

Edited by The Bigbee Line
  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interlude. 

 

I have wagons that that just require minor tweaks. One of which is an LMS van that looks like a D1664. 

I have added rain strips. Then noticed that the uprights of the metal framing bent under the sides, but the model continued straight down.

 

F85103D1-4E83-4ED9-80EE-421D66C92E70.jpeg.f8a8d79558d341ca15e0095e87952cb0.jpeg

 

So they were cut off and the scrap trimmed to form the portion under the sides. They need some filling and filing....

 

55B96806-90C3-4AF3-A5E1-07C935E81FEC.jpeg.39056868d09c3ac224e5b981d68dc1d3.jpeg

 

E534286F-0A80-4EAE-A5FD-019EA29CCC1B.jpeg.52a2f237850f87e5b643b51db56a611e.jpeg

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tonight’s work bench, tools and material. 

 

F16E4DE5-5126-40B0-BC78-C97D447BF9E0.jpeg.c3bafff8a67fcb0d076e2bea5080096d.jpeg

 

Various bits of plastic lid.....

 

Maybe a lot of effort for a little plastic. 

 

A173D1E6-609E-463C-B6C9-2CA9C17637FC.jpeg.8a66efbbf5cf7fb182533056b720eed4.jpeg

 

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I removed the metal parts of the buffers to fix the ‘rings’ on the front. Promptly decanted the tray of bits in the floor.....  So it will be Man V Carpet Monster later....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

50 shades of grey. 

 

I had had picked up a couple of Games Workshops shades of Grey. I had given each a stir with a wooden coffee stirrer. When they had dried out, the shade reference was written in each stick. 

I’ve had a test run with Ulthuan Grey.  It was applied as a thinned coat over some Tamiya, slightly darker grey. 

 

35C7983A-56B6-4A3A-8002-C9B3813382A9.jpeg.91df28455ccef98a9d8cbf9ba4eab7bf.jpeg

 

2614B939-87E8-46F0-B9A8-7889598B7BDC.jpeg.47f042e018fd6b6d422fb62c94c3cb37.jpeg

 

I applied some black Micro-Scale decal sheet. Then found the nearest number decals from the same manufacturer. 

 

D6753003-2B9A-4D22-806B-E29783A8CC2C.jpeg.97539265e822fc47046e09462692e6e8.jpeg

 

AF569AB5-E263-426B-8880-E8FD17672BC2.jpeg.5d75e175a68631eaaf09c76a0a53bf37.jpeg

 

 

Edited by The Bigbee Line
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

citadel have a good range of quality paints but theyre also a more expensive

  • Agree 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Staying near Telford ready for Guildex. Need to have great will power. 

My list for wagons is only buffers and etched brakework. Maybe grey paint and decals. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The cold weather is here...

 

I always seem to be sorting out stuff. There’s so much of it...

 

Work has been quite intense, but interesting. I’ve had a couple of trips to the Mendips so cannot complain. 

 

On the modelling front l have re-activated my LSWR van in card. The intention was to use a wooden core, for stability and weight.

 

33D647FB-9F85-4BFE-B174-6E6DE0F5F008.jpeg.56363142afca5d2111c534699825e6e9.jpeg

 

As my woodworking skills are poor, I improvised. 

 

BF713B7A-0261-48EB-ADA5-74FECBDE30E1.jpeg.b3e7b2746665b21c0e79c0f0c8096a5c.jpeg

 

These 3 parts will form the core. 

 

B6153F66-F54D-4DF7-A551-B4CBB95B15E3.jpeg.bd3ab086adfe9c1b489ac11fb1a42880.jpeg

 

Craftily joined with card to create a solid with square corners. 

 

5AE4B6F8-895F-40C1-9498-473D75F2A8D3.jpeg.8930ef0d56e090266d29cfea447894d4.jpeg

 

It’s amazing what you can do with PVA and a load of clamps. 

 

97696186-4D92-4F6F-8AB7-9AEED1F8CD23.jpeg.11462a567f7ae80528f48c3b2529069f.jpeg

 

Tomorrow the sides and ends go on. 

 

 

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

While the body is assembled I was thinking of the underframe.  I had a Slaters Midland Railway Van, a bit short and maybe a touch too early for me.  It was an ebay purchase with defective buffers.  The underframe timbers were quite deep, but it would be my donor.

 

I stripped off the underframe and reviewed the parts.  The wheels stood quite a way off the axle boxes, so snipped a bit off each axle stub and cleaned the ends with a file.  The sole bars are moulded as a channel, so the lower web would form a good location for a new part to join the solebar sections.

 

IMG_9468.jpg.03ba80e19d92d0877e97303d9411b860.jpg

 

I had a measure and drew up a plate that would give a nice set the underframe timbers at the correct width and allow the increase in wheelbase from 9' to 10'6".

 

IMG_9469.jpg.ebac859de70d941cd7c454670ee2814e.jpg

 

The first axleguard has been cemented onto the base and the parts rest on a square to harden.

 

IMG_9472.jpg.a903a8a3dc4e9d723d054c87baf66958.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

First 2 axleguards in place. They need to dry overnight before adding the others. Showing the WB increased to 10’6”

 

B499E23D-7472-4977-9BD6-D694F28783FF.jpeg.8285b53b988ee63602755d279928c619.jpeg

 

This is the body waiting for its final end to be fitted. 

 

07F79DE4-B5D1-4870-866D-2E9DD4ED5EFA.jpeg.a0f692f049dad76a06f8c84001391528.jpeg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Underframe had some fettling to allow it to be fitted to the body.  Although the Slaters underframe had wooden solebars, I have decided to recreate a diagram 1408 steel underframed version.  The front of the solebar will be smoothed off and a cosmetic steel solebar added...

 

IMG_9485.jpg.dde8166aa42b81231fe73965bcb2eaa8.jpg       IMG_9486.jpg.338185b33966f1a9399dda1649673082.jpg

 

The underframe assembly will be split down the middle and each section screwed in place to the body.   First dry run against the part built body..

 

IMG_9490.jpg.04872e31cb11a2a47bdb326e289e6a8d.jpg     IMG_9483.jpg.a6a3b08c8790fea3e2f1abae48de6d9e.jpg

 

I need to check the ride height as the buffer height is very important.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am determined to get the LSWR van finished..

 

The second end was added and some wood strip sanded down to create the timbers on the end, here having a test 'sit' on the underframe..

 

668573207_111IMG_0060.jpg.23b3e4afa5aae7d332fa86a52e46a8ed.jpg

 

Here is a side view..

 

2126413652_111IMG_0064.jpg.8269dd80c76fbb51d1f741d56d128b3f.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also on the workbench this evening was the trial fitting of some brass sprung UIC buffers to a Lima Ferry wagon.  I need to add some correct sized wheels, then re-set the buffer heights and widths.

 

Here is the before picture..

 

61400918_111IMG_0069.jpg.fb8e78a46cdd890871504137ca768a2f.jpg

 

Now the 'first draft' with the replacement buffers...

 

484651737_111IMG_0067.jpg.7fb95b8febe0a6f9361ba19920d93454.jpg

 

Some additional fettling is required..

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tonight it was buffers. 

 

6436D528-3AB8-499E-BC45-FC7B7A218200.jpeg.d663fa8a4ab76f0caacc6edfa86436ca.jpeg

 

E8FB80FD-D18F-4D15-90C1-82AAF8ED9DA5.jpeg.c523c95df5ae5bfbacfc9bf480d923d8.jpeg

 

C86C5DDB-8065-4BA5-87A2-13280971F574.jpeg.064e7a392ba9b91319ecfacaaa0a7f8e.jpeg

 

I think these are North British. But they will do. Just taken the out and larruped shellac into the holes. 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 16/11/2019 at 22:25, The Bigbee Line said:

Also on the workbench this evening was the trial fitting of some brass sprung UIC buffers to a Lima Ferry wagon.  I need to add some correct sized wheels, then re-set the buffer heights and widths.

 

Here is the before picture..

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_11/61400918_111IMG_0069.jpg.fb8e78a46cdd890871504137ca768a2f.jpg

 

Now the 'first draft' with the replacement buffers...

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_11/484651737_111IMG_0067.jpg.7fb95b8febe0a6f9361ba19920d93454.jpg

 

Some additional fettling is required..

 

 

Firstly Ernie where did you get the buffers from and secondly we spoke about wheels I might leave my wheels as they are as I’ve been running up and down with mine and it been fine. 

Ive completed the body and can now concentrate on the chassis see pic below. 

Steve. 

 

66BAF3C9-2BDC-4A81-8E2F-AB68A9E1A329.jpeg

Edited by sf315
  • Craftsmanship/clever 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 19/11/2019 at 15:57, sf315 said:

Firstly Ernie where did you get the buffers from and secondly we spoke about wheels I might leave my wheels as they are as I’ve been running up and down with mine and it been fine. 

Ive completed the body and can now concentrate on the chassis see pic below. 

Steve. 

 

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2019_11/66BAF3C9-2BDC-4A81-8E2F-AB68A9E1A329.jpeg.ac8adb1cba4a693f798fb849f306158b.jpeg

Steve

 

I will message you about the buffers. My next thing with the Lima van is a new roof. I have another project for the Lima one. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I discovered I'd made a slight faux pas..  The under frame was a little too deep to sit at the correct level.  Rather than hack it about I started to make a new one with timber sole bars of the correct depth..

 

IMG_0116.jpg.3b1645b203659839e7d0d2068c7c6b5c.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The wooden solebar is a lamination of 3 pieces of sheet (I've used up all my chunky evergreen).

 

Here is a plastic axle guard in position.

 

1290082527_IMG_0125axlebox.jpg.995d45d3dc0db799510fd774d1f5d4b7.jpg

 

That is now set up, so the second side is now being added.  The assembly sits of the greaseproof type paper that is the backing on sticky labels.  The support is a plated brass 'earthing' block.  Very handy as the are heavy and square...

 

822625350_IMG_0129secondside.jpg.4fe51b25579ae8ef597f4790db9891eb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The second axle guard is now cemented in place, set up at the correct 10'6" wheelbase.  I seem to have slipped up a bit as the are not symmetrical on the solebars..  That will easily be corrected when fitting.  You can see that I have used odd pieces to laminate the solebar.

 

Tonight I can fix the other 2 axle guards, the tomorrow have a test run, I'd better have got the ride height correct..  The underframe with the 'too deep' solebars is destined for an LBSC twin bolster.  These made it just into BR days on the mainland, but into the 60's on 'The Island' (The Isle of Wight) a couple were converted to crane runners, so not a problem for me...

 

928944289_IMG_01402ndaxleguard.jpg.6d892a65a924a73b2acc76f3fd57ec7f.jpg

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.