Vallejo Acrylics - two questions

[spikey]

I am persuaded that I will be a happy boy if I go to Vallejo acrylics for the structures on my railway, most of which will be plastic (scratchbuilt and kitbashed) and all of which will be brush-painted, but I have a couple of questions.

 

Am I correct in assuming that Vallejo Model Color Acrylics are matt?

 

And can anybody recommend an online supplier who normally holds good stocks of these at a good price and who usually gets orders out the door in a timely manner.

 

ETA a third question - what's the difference between 001 "White" and 002 "Foundation White"?

Edited October 22, 2017 by spikey

[Anglian]

Matt – yes as long as they are well shaken.  On-line not sure I buy them locally.

[Gordon A]

The model shop in Frome, Somerset. 

http://fromemodelcentre.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=vallejo+paints

 

Gordon A

[PaulWarb]

Hi

 

I have regularly bought Vallejo acrylics for my Iwata airbrush online - used two suppliers - ebay names ...

 

flying_tigercat   and    coulsdon_models

 

both very reliable - sent paints very quickly.

 

Sorry can't help with the 'whites' question - maybe contact one of the above suppliers.

 

Hope this helps

[Coryton]

I am persuaded that I will be a happy boy if I go to Vallejo acrylics for the structures on my railway, most of which will be plastic (scratchbuilt and kitbashed) and all of which will be brush-painted, but I have a couple of questions.

 

Am I correct in assuming that Vallejo Model Color Acrylics are matt?

 

And can anybody recommend an online supplier who normally holds good stocks of these at a good price and who usually gets orders out the door in a timely manner.

 

ETA a third question - what's the difference between 001 "White" and 002 "Foundation White"?

 

There's a gloss white and glossy black in the range but if not described as gloss I believe they are all matt - certainly the ones I've used are, though I don't pay much attention to whether I'm buying gloss or matt as everything will get a coat of matt varnish afterwards anyway.

 

I believe that "foundation white" is intended as a primer - I've seen reviews saying it's rather thick (which is not what I'd want from a primer).

 

I am a big fan of Vallejo paints for brush-painting because it requires very little effort to avoid brush marks (in fact with some of their colours I'd have to work very hard if I wanted brush marks). However, I find that their yellow and white are quite thin and it's hard to get an even finish. For white I've had more luck with Tamiya, and I've just discovered the "Mr Hobby" paints and got on with their yellow (in their water based acrylic line) much better than the Vallejo (it's gloss, but I'm sure matt varnish will take care of that).

 

Can't help with on-line suppliers because I'm fortunate enough to have two nearby shops stocking them.

Matt – yes as long as they are well shaken.  On-line not sure I buy them locally.

 

The problem with shaking them is that they tend to bubble.

 

Although the bottles tell you to shake them, Vallejo themselves actually recommend rolling them between your hands or on a table.

[spikey]

... Although the bottles tell you to shake them, Vallejo themselves actually recommend rolling them between your hands or on a table.

 

Hmmmm.  So you don't stir them.  Wonder why not ...

Edited October 22, 2017 by spikey

[Coryton]

Hmmmm.  So you don't stir them.  Wonder why not ...

 

The eyedropper bit does come off.

 

Would still be a bit tricky to stir even so though.

[Coryton]

The eyedropper bit does come off.

 

Would still be a bit tricky to stir even so though.

 

Some people suggest putting a ball bearing in to aid the stirring.

 

Others have apparently had ball bearings reacting with the paint and suggest a bit of plastic (left over sprue or some such)

[durham light infantry]

Hmmmm.  So you don't stir them.  Wonder why not ...

The eyedropper bit does come off.

 

Would still be a bit tricky to stir even so though.

They need an agitator in the bottom of the dropper bottle, just give it a swirl then rather than a shake. Marine grade stainless steel nuts M5, off e-bay.

 

Mike

[durham light infantry]

 

From about 12 minutes in.

 

Mike

[Coryton]

They need an agitator in the bottom of the dropper bottle, just give it a swirl then rather than a shake. Marine grade stainless steel nuts M5, off e-bay.

 

Mike

 

So far I've not been aware of problems due to inadequate shaking/rolling/agitating.

 

But maybe I'd be happier with white and yellow if I did mix them up better.

 

I always wonder with things like this though why they don't include something in the bottle to aid mixing if it's such a good idea. From looking at their web site they do seem to pay quite a lot of attention to their products.

[Anglian]

Croydon,

 

May I ask which varnishes you use?

[spikey]

...  I don't pay much attention to whether I'm buying gloss or matt as everything will get a coat of matt varnish afterwards anyway.

 

Forgive a new-to-acrylics dumb question, but why do you do that?  And would that be airbrush or aerosol?

[Coryton]

Croydon,

 

May I ask which varnishes you use?

 

You may indeed.

 

After disastrous experiences with Humbrol matt varnish that just left a white bloom (and I tried two different pots), I bought a 500 ml bottle of Vallejo matt varnish (28.518).

 

I think it's in their artists materials range not model paints, but I haven't any complaints with it. It does need a good shake to come out matt not gloss, but doesn't seem to leave white marks even if I put it on a bit thickly in places. As with the paints, it seems to require a lot of effort to mess things up.

 

I don't know what I'd gain from using the matt varnish from the model color line instead, other than a much smaller bottle, but given that floor polish seems a popular choice it's perhaps not necessary to stick to varnishes sold specifically for modelling.

 

I have some Humbrol "Clear" satin varnish - I find I have to make sure this is used very thinly otherwise I end up with white marks again.

[Coryton]

Forgive a new-to-acrylics dumb question, but why do you do that?  And would that be airbrush or aerosol?

 

Three reasons:

 

1) I can use gloss paints if that's how the colour I want comes and still get a matt finish

2) I don't know how true it is, but Vallejo paints have a reputation for coming off with handling and this should make it more resistant. 

3) On freight wagons I use printed paper for numbering (yes, really) and a layer of varnish means I can use watercolours to weather over them.

 

As with the paint, the varnish is brushed on, not sprayed in any manner.

 

I don't consider myself an expert in any of this other than that I know what works for me with the skills I have and the brushes I use. (And I've certainly found what doesn't work for me...)

[spikey]

Thank you, sir.  I'm only concerned with using the paints on structures and to some extent on scenery, so at least I won't have to get into varnishing. 

 

OK that's make, type and suppliers sorted, so all I have to figure out now is what colours I need to kick off with when (a) I need to order sight-unseen and (b) the Model Color names don't exactly convey much about the colour (at least they don't to me).

 

If anybody can give me a clue about a few handy colours to start with from which to mix myself a range of greys suitable for stone retaining walls and platform walls, I'd really appreciate it

[Coryton]

Thank you, sir.  I'm only concerned with using the paints on structures and to some extent on scenery, so at least I won't have to get into varnishing. 

 

OK that's make, type and suppliers sorted, so all I have to figure out now is what colours I need to kick off with when (a) I need to order sight-unseen and (b) the Model Color names don't exactly convey much about the colour (at least they don't to me).

 

If anybody can give me a clue about a few handy colours to start with from which to mix myself a range of greys suitable for stone retaining walls and platform walls, I'd really appreciate it

 

Well other than black and white, I'm not sure what to suggest.

 

You don't need to go by just the colour names though - a quick internet search for, say, Vallejo model color chart will give you a colour chart.

 

Of course the colours on your screen won't be the same as in the bottle, but it's a start (the colours on the display racks don't really match the paint either...the bottles are semi-transparent but that's also not a very good guide.)

[Butler Henderson]

Various sellers on ebay all with reasonably quick delivery IME.

[Anglian]

Thank you, sir.  I'm only concerned with using the paints on structures and to some extent on scenery, so at least I won't have to get into varnishing. 

 

OK that's make, type and suppliers sorted, so all I have to figure out now is what colours I need to kick off with when (a) I need to order sight-unseen and (b) the Model Color names don't exactly convey much about the colour (at least they don't to me).

 

If anybody can give me a clue about a few handy colours to start with from which to mix myself a range of greys suitable for stone retaining walls and platform walls, I'd really appreciate it

 

 

Vallejo Stone grey is a lovely warm yellow tinted grey. It's very useful for desaturating other colours. Other colours - it depends if you are modelling granite or the warmer honey coloured stone.

 

Croydon – thanks for varnish reference. Vallejo paint is very weak and it does rub off so it has to be sealed in my view. I was wondering if it would be better to use enamels. Are any formulated to dry gloss to take decals before matt varnishing.

Edited October 22, 2017 by Anglian

[ELTEL]

Google “EModels” based in Stoke who have a excellent range of products and good reports on other forums on mail order.

 

Can’t comment myself as I only live five miles away so I just pop round and save the postage.

 

Eltel

[Coryton]

Croydon – thanks for varnish reference. Vallejo paint is very weak and it does rub off so it has to be sealed in my view. I was wondering if it would be better to use enamels. Are any formulated to dry gloss to take decals before matt varnishing.

 

There don't seem to be many gloss finish Vallejo model colour paints, but there are of course plenty of gloss varnishes around including from Vallejo. 

 

I think paint - gloss varnish - transfer - matt varnish is a common way of doing things.

 

Johnson's Klear (floor polish) is apparently quite popular, though I believe it has been re-formulated and may not be so useful now.

 

As for the paint rubbing off - it may well depend on what it's painted on, but I haven't seen any sign of it coming off when I've painted plastic models while handling them before varnishing - it seems to stick very well.

[spikey]

As for the paint rubbing off - it may well depend on what it's painted on ...

And whether or not the surface has been properly degreased prior to painting?

[Anglian]

I've been using an acid etch printer on metal after a very rigorous clean-up and degreasing process. Spraying this acid etch in warm air gives fantastic results. However, I'm new to assembling plastic wagon kits so simply don't know the best paint and materials to use. 

 

I thought I'd make my self up some simple open boxes, from plasticard, to represent the equivalent of a 7 plank open wagon to experiment with paints and varnishes and to work out a method that suits me. Right now I'm trying to work out how I can safely use an airbrush indoors in winter. I may not solve that hurdle…