Flexible track - idiot question

[dseagull]

Hi All;

 

It's been a while, but after a very stressful time for the majority of 2017 (Pregnancy with complications which resulted in many extra hospital appointments, combined with a change of job description and subsequent mini breakdown at work) I am finally ready to step back into the world of modelling, as baby Hannah is now here and perfectly fine and I have been given a secondment to a new role which really appeals 

 

This desire has been helped considerably (they do come in useful sometimes ) by Charlie's (10) Christmas present of a Hornby Western Hauler train set!

 

I've been having a play with plans for a layout that we can build together, and, after looking around for inspiration, found a rather appealing plan on Brian Ford's blog; http://brianfordtrains.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/crowley-oo-gauge-scenic-model-railway.html

 

This appears to have plenty of operating and scenic potential (We had a trip out to Train Times yesterday and Charlie was very taken with the scenic side of things) and is nicely compact at 4' square. In order to keep costs low and to use the Third Radius curves which were included with his set, I've amended it slightly, - it was designed for second radius curves, so have taken these out, losing a siding at the top, the curved point and changing one siding from requiring a first radius curve to a third radius, but it retains the look of the original despite these.

 

 

The items crossed off the shopping list are ones which we already have available. Obviously it would be cheaper to use flexi track rather than setrack, but I can't seem to make it fit in XtrkCad without getting the purple track of doom to say that the radius is too tight. So, getting to the point - can Peco Flexi track be curved to match setrack radii, or will it just not work?

 

Thanks.

[PMP]

Yes is the simple answer. It’ll be ‘keen’ not to be formed into such tight radii, so you’ll likely need to pre drill sleeper holes for track pins to make it keep shape. I doubt it’ll take shape without mechanical fixing (pins) and you might need to cut some of the sleeper webbing underneath the rail too. If you can blag an old bit off someone have a play around with a bit before taking the plunge.

Good to see an ‘old name’ back on the pitch

[beast66606]

I would recommend using something such as tracksetta when laying it.

 

http://www.hattons.co.uk/stocklist/1000407/1000588/1000783/0/Peco_Products_OO_Gauge_1_76_Scale_Tools/prodlist.aspx

 

no connection with Hattons, a previous happy customer and they had the products available to view

[SRman]

The flexi track will, indeed form curves down to set track radii, or even sharper. I am in a club that used Peco code 100 track for a tramway, with radii down to around 10" or less.

My own layout uses flexible track (again Peco code 100) with radii approximately the same as third and fourth radius set track, (roughly 20-21" and 24" but varying and with transitions into and out of the curves).

I'd agree with Beast in that you could use Tracksetta (or equivalent) templates to make your curves more even and consistent.

[DCB]

I habitually mix Peco Streamline flexi with Peco set track. 

I use peco streamline points with set track curves and carve set track to length and adjust the curves by cutting the webs on the sleeper bases but find while streamline can be curved sharply it won't stay curved and straightens out at rail joints to create awkward kinks. 

I use Set Track for anything under 2 ft radius.   If the entire curve  can be formed from one 3ft section of flexi then it might be OK  but you usually need at least one join.  

[RexAshton]

I successfully laid Peco 0/16.5 flexi at 8" radius. I did however remove the rail from the sleepers, pre-bend it then refit it to the sleepers which stopped it trying to straighten itself out. It might also be worth considering glueing the flexi with Evo-Stick as this allows some 'jiggling time' and also reduces the likelihood of dog legs forming in pins are used.

[dseagull]

Thanks chaps, some good information there. I found a piece of Code 100 Flexi on top of the bathroom door, of all places, so will try with that first (he isn't having my dwindling stock after many false starts of SMP Code 75 )

 

I wasn't aware that tracksetta templates came in setrack radii, this is useful to know!

 

PMP: many thanks, good to be back!

[LNER4479]

A simple technique I use, even on some gentler curves, to counter the 'spring back' tendency is to gently curve the last inch or so (25-50mm) of the each rail. Grip the end with pair of pliers and just give it a slight tweak. That can help considerably in reducing the inevitable kink where it joins on to the next piece of track.

[sjp23480]

Hmmmm...will have to check the top of my doors before I go out and buy any more code 75.

[dseagull]

Hmmmm...will have to check the top of my doors before I go out and buy any more code 75.

 

All I can think is I put it there when we moved in so it didn't get mixed up with my other track, and forgot about it. It is quite a deep frame/facia for a sliding door, so couldn't be seen from the ground, happened to notice it when getting Christmas decorations out of the loft!

[Chimer]

Hi All;

 

It's been a while, but after a very stressful time for the majority of 2017 (Pregnancy with complications which resulted in many extra hospital appointments, combined with a change of job description and subsequent mini breakdown at work) I am finally ready to step back into the world of modelling, as baby Hannah is now here and perfectly fine and I have been given a secondment to a new role which really appeals 

 

This desire has been helped considerably (they do come in useful sometimes ) by Charlie's (10) Christmas present of a Hornby Western Hauler train set!

 

I've been having a play with plans for a layout that we can build together, and, after looking around for inspiration, found a rather appealing plan on Brian Ford's blog; http://brianfordtrains.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/crowley-oo-gauge-scenic-model-railway.html

 

This appears to have plenty of operating and scenic potential (We had a trip out to Train Times yesterday and Charlie was very taken with the scenic side of things) and is nicely compact at 4' square. In order to keep costs low and to use the Third Radius curves which were included with his set, I've amended it slightly, - it was designed for second radius curves, so have taken these out, losing a siding at the top, the curved point and changing one siding from requiring a first radius curve to a third radius, but it retains the look of the original despite these.

 

CharliePlan1.JPG

 

The items crossed off the shopping list are ones which we already have available. Obviously it would be cheaper to use flexi track rather than setrack, but I can't seem to make it fit in XtrkCad without getting the purple track of doom to say that the radius is too tight. So, getting to the point - can Peco Flexi track be curved to match setrack radii, or will it just not work?

 

Thanks.

 

XTrackCad thinks it knows what you want as your minimum radius, and uses the "purple track of doom" (lovely phrase btw) if you go tighter.  But you have control over this - assuming you've got the same version as me, you can change it in the "Layout" dialog under the "Options" menu.

 

That said, I agree with others that if you're using Set-track radii, it's difficult to form smooth curves using flexi - probably worth paying the extra for Set-track to avoid the risk of kinks and possible derailments.

 

Cheers

 

Chris

[Edwardian]

There is no such thing as an "idiot question".

 

If there was, I'd never have found anything out!

 

Good luck with the project.

[Lord Bickerstaff]

So this is that my R/H point a double curves are going on  

[The Johnster]

It is possible to bend Streamline to tight radii, but I would always suggest, especially to a newbie, that setrack is much better for this sort of thing.  Bending flexi to tight radii is not really what it is designed for and, unless you are very careful and meticulous, tends to pull the track out of gauge and result in a very sharp radius indeed in the centre of the curve.

 

I approve of your decision to ditch the curved point; I have one and am unimpressed with the build quality compared to my Peco points, though having said that it has performed reliably enough; it lives in my fiddle yard and is a necessary space saver, but I am not enamoured of it.

 

My personal view is that setrack is the best thing for this sort of layout; reliable running is of great importance and will lead to disappointment and frustration if it does not happen.  You and Charlie should have hours of fun and satisfaction from it.

 

There are no idiot questions; the act of asking disbars you from being an idiot!

[dseagull]

Thanks, I'm hoping we will! Got the set out last weekend and he was enthralled, though it was just a plain loop. Having a bit of trouble putting things back on the track after uncoupling but it will come with practice.

 

Thanks to an absolute bargain on eBay (9 sets of points for £11!) and a kind donation from a friend I have now picked up all the track bar two curves, so it's off to the shop tomorrow morning and then we should be able to make something of a start.

[Chubber]

....whilst you are out shopping, perhaps find a nice thick-walled carboard box to cut out a circular/eliptical template for the big circle/elipse, pin it down and work the track round it, using drawing pins between the sleepers to hold it in place as you go. LNER4479s idea is really worthwhile, as is soldering the end fishplate joints...

 

Save the cost of Traksettas, I think you will have a lot of extra spending to do, my 'little girl' is 40 next week, it never stops!

 

Good luck!

 

Doug

Edited January 13, 2018 by Chubber

[The Johnster]

Hornby Dublo used to sell a 're-railer', a sort of sloping metal thing that you rolled stock or slid locos down to position them accurately on the track.  How old is Charlie?  I had my first train set when I was 6, and remember having a little trouble for maybe a year while my motor skills caught up; this was Triang and much coarser scale rail and wheels than today's RTR!  He will soon get the hang of it, though.  Try to avoid locos bigger than 0-6-0 and bogie stock for a while and he'll be on top of. the job in no time; such stock is better for your small railway anyway.

[ejstubbs]

Hornby Dublo used to sell a 're-railer', a sort of sloping metal thing that you rolled stock or slid locos down to position them accurately on the track.

 

Peco still do a re-railer, part number SL-37.

[dseagull]

Thanks, I hadn't thought of those, I think I may still have one somewhere...