How to construct an open baseboard

[barney121e]

Hi guys

 

Can anyone give me pointers on how to construct an open baseboard so I can have scenery above and below track level.

Any help much appreciated.

[Junctionmad]

There are several methods , I construct a 6mm baseboard , strengthened with a 120mm box sections  ply , glued and taped over the joins , Then i invert that , cut holes to allow access and run risers up to the track bed ply , easier to make then describe 

[doilum]

Most encouraging to read this. Almost every new layout on his forum seem to favour flat top baseboards. How ever skilled the modelling, it always looks flat. This was the great debate of the 1980s. Good luck,just remember that this style of construction requires a definite paper plan so that cross members avoid point motors etc.

[Junctionmad]

in essence you need box structure from strength , the run risers to a track bed.  track bed can be 12mm ply because in general its not covering the whole baseboard so weight isn't an issue in general . where I need short " excursions " below track beds ( under 1 foot in length ) , I just cut the flat top ply , and " descend " into the box section 

[barney121e]

Does anyone have any pictures to show how it's done?

[doilum]

Will post some tomorrow when I get out to the workshop

[PatB]

Is this for a portable or fixed layout? For portable, I'd go for a plywood "egg-crate" type structure, as alluded to by Junctionmad. For fixed, "L-girder" construction has an awful lot going for it, in terms of being able to utilise a wide range of timber types, qualities and dimensions, meaning you can build your baseboard out of anything that happens to be cheap, including scrap out of skips.

[DCB]

L girder sounds good, or simply build a conventional 2X1 baseboard frame a few inches below track level and support the track beds on risers.  There is no sound reason why one cannot mix and match baseboard construction with channels cut in conventional flat top baseboards to let rivers roads etc pass beneath the track or have part fkat top part L girder and risers.  I have never liked 1/2" or 12mm ply track beds, just seems too heavy to me, 6mm ply with more bracing or Sundela board with more bracing appeals to me.  

L girder  and risers lends itself to multi level layouts, I have been threading a low level branch through the risers supporting a marshalling yard and a descending main line which would have been quite impossible with a conventional 2X1 and ply top baseboard.   Ply Box construction is also good but can be heavy on screws or pins and glue and you need to be a reasonable wood worker to get things square, L girders lend themselves to someone less skilled who has a power saw and tape measure.

 

I have often wondered about a Haha to keep stock on a L girder based layout, like a 3" deep U groove between track bed edge and fascia so fascia is at or below track level yet stock can only fall into the groove not on the floor when it derails. 

[Chris M]

I use plywood for both the track base and the crossmembers. My track usually undulates so the crossmembers need to be very carefully shaped to support the track base.

The process I use is:-

1. Design the track plan using Anyrail (or similar). For open baseboards a detailed track plan up front is essential. 

2. Work out how many crossmembers I need to support the trackbed and add these to the track plan.

3. On a seperate copy of the track plan I use "cut flex here" at every point where the track crosses a crossmember. This gives me the height of the track at the point where it crosses each crossmember.

4. Work out the scenic scheme.

5. Draw each crossmember from the information in items 3 & 4

6. Draw this on the plywood and cut it out. All I have to do then is screw it all together.

 

Its easier than it sounds and it is probably best to try a small layout first.

[Chris M]

Unfortunately I don't have any photos taken during construction. This shows my little layout ready to go to an exhibition.

 

 

[Chris M]

This bit of video shows the layout before it was "dressed"

 

earlytest.MOV

Edited March 15, 2018 by Chris M

[Kris]

If you have a look at the earlier posts on my Coombe Viaduct thread, there are pictures of open baseboard construction. 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/75479-coombe-viaduct-saltash/

[gordon s]

Plenty of pics and construction techniques in my layout thread.  Bit pushed for time right now, so I'll pull out some pics tomorrow if you're interested.

 

Link in my signature.

[2ManySpams]

Have a look how we tackled building boards on Treneglos where the scenics went above and below the track level.

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/28781-treneglos-the-ace-on-the-north-cornwall-railway/page-2&do=findComment&comment=313706

 

IMO it's well worth building a layout in sections. Much easier to work on, take bits outside for messy work and also allows for a change in domestic circumstances.

[Harlequin]

Here are my plans for an open frame baseboard module that I am proposing to construct for a test track before I do something more complex for a proper layout.

 

So, be warned: I haven't actually built this yet! So it's all a bit theoretical and I don't know for sure if it will be stiff enough - but it looks OK, I think. (If I didn't have to work for a living I'd be out in my shed, knocking this up today!)

 

 

More details, drawn to scale with a cutting plan are in this PDF:

Open baseboard.pdf

Edited March 15, 2018 by Harlequin

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

... For fixed, "L-girder" construction has an awful lot going for it, in terms of being able to utilise a wide range of timber types, qualities and dimensions, meaning you can build your baseboard out of anything that happens to be cheap, including scrap out of skips.

 As stated it is definitely 'fixed layout' only. The 'classic' style of all screw assembed rough sawn timber struts and crossmembers to support the track base is simple and quick to build and to subsequently alter; but not a demonstration of elegant design for stability using minimum material combined with a demonstration of woodworking finesse.

 

The track base should be in best quality ply, affordable because relatively little is required and the underlying support materials are cheap. It is up to the builder to specify the ply thickness required based on the maximum loading the trains may impose over the span between the planned support spacing, just do the experiment.

 

Because the verticals are screwed onto the L girder, a major consideration is easy access for the tool to do the screw attachment of the vertical struts, especially if like me you want to save your wrists by using a battery power drill.

 

...just remember that this style of construction requires a definite paper plan so that cross members avoid point motors etc.

The 'classic' style referred to above doesn't require such detail in planning in my experience, as point motors are relatively small. So a crossmember is right where a point motor must go? Your options include:

Unscrew crossmember from vertical struts, and screw it back on the other side of the struts, thus shifting it along a small distance.

Unscrew struts from L girders and move the support assembly along a little further, resecure.

Unscrew struts and cross member and re-align that support assembly significantly so the crossmember is now oblique relative to the track bed.

 

Next big thing with point motorisation: this construction makes it easy to have panels of track bed carrying pointwork removeable at the track laying stage. Get your point network down on the track bed panel. Then lift out the panel, and you can work from both sides on the bench to fit the motors, wire up and test off the layout.

[doilum]

Lots of good advice here. My comment about point motors was thinking about the Tortoise type.

Anyway, as promised a few photos of an abandoned project. I was given a sheet of cheap nasty plywood and challenged my self to have a zero cost layout in less than ten days for a club open day. It ran but I moved on to another project.

[doilum]

Here are my plans for an open frame baseboard module that I am proposing to construct for a test track before I do something more complex for a proper layout.

 

So, be warned: I haven't actually built this yet! So it's all a bit theoretical and I don't know for sure if it will be stiff enough - but it looks OK, I think. (If I didn't have to work for a living I'd be out in my shed, knocking this up today!)

 

Open baseboard.png

 

More details, drawn to scale with a cutting plan are in this PDF:

Open baseboard.pdf

Given a width of 720mm, you might need more diagonal bracing, or try glueing small blocks of wood into the corners of the bracing intersections.

[doilum]

If this is a very first attempt, the free plywood approach has much to recommend it. If however you have already spent a year on the buildings and other details not to mention  hand made track, only use the best birch ply. Available to order from a proper timber merchant,  a full sheet of 6mm ply will cost north of £50, but reward you in years to come. Go armed with a cutting plan. Given your spend, most timer yards will cut for free. This also enables you to take it home in a small car.

From the photos you will see that I prefer 18mm ply for the baseboard ends. These are the first things to prepare. Temporarily screw two together and drill small pilot holes for the brass or steel pattern makers dowels and the bolt holes. The fitting of the dowels and captive nuts on the bolt holes is completed before moving on. These two ends remain a matched pair for adjacent boards. Before continuing, give a little thought to how the landscape might affect access to the bolts.

All you have to do now is to ensure that the ends are absolutely vertical and square to the front and rear panels. If possible, try and assemble on a truly flat surface. The ideal is a well braced sheet of 18mm ply on tressels, but at all costs avoid glue drips on the new hardwood floor!

[gismorail]

If you have a browse through my Chumley End layout thread I have some quite detailed photo's on the construction methods used ...hope it is of help. I would say that you do need to have a good idea of exactly what you wish to build prior to any cutting of ply board. 

[Chris M]

Here are my plans for an open frame baseboard module that I am proposing to construct for a test track before I do something more complex for a proper layout.

 

So, be warned: I haven't actually built this yet! So it's all a bit theoretical and I don't know for sure if it will be stiff enough - but it looks OK, I think. (If I didn't have to work for a living I'd be out in my shed, knocking this up today!)

 

Open baseboard.png

 

More details, drawn to scale with a cutting plan are in this PDF:

Open baseboard.pdf

Looks very good. As it’s only a test track it maybe doesn’t matter but I always profile the crossmembers to support the track base and the scenery shape. This saves adding bits later to shape the scenery.

[DCB]

Here are my plans for an open frame baseboard module that I am proposing to construct for a test track before I do something more complex for a proper layout.

 

So, be warned: I haven't actually built this yet! So it's all a bit theoretical and I don't know for sure if it will be stiff enough - but it looks OK, I think. (If I didn't have to work for a living I'd be out in my shed, knocking this up today!)

 

More details, drawn to scale with a cutting plan are in this PDF:

 

That is way beyond my capabilities and more important lacks any holes to poke wires through.  I suspect some bracing will be needed to keep it "Square"

Its very light, very professional, ideal for exhibitions, but a total nightmare if the cutting isn't absolutely precise

[barney121e]

Thanks for all the information. Will take a look and see what I could do.

[doilum]

A test track would be a great way of developing carpentry skills.

Whilst laser cut kits go together with amazing precision, most of us have to settle for some real life solutions. It is quite possible to cut thin ply baseboards with just a jigsaw. Sharp blades help and setsquares are essential. Make the slots an "easy" fit to avoid distortion. Small blocks of wood can be clamped in place to close up the gaps at the intersections. If you haven't a jig saw, look for a teflon coated jacksaw in B&Q. Costing around £10 you will be amazed at how easy woodwork can be.

My previous photos show the slightly messy but very successful use of modern expanding adhesives to close up the gap and create extremely strong self bracing joints. This was my second attempt at this layout. About 35 years ago I built a very similar layout using hardboard and a newly acquired hot glue gun. This layout lasted much longer than intended and was eventually given away to make room for another project.

Thinking back to this hardboard layout, the boards were metric, just a metre in length. This was the longest that would fit on the back seat of a Mexico Escort fitted with a roll cage. If  planning a layout for exhibition this can be a key planning consideration. The boards in the photo are 56 inches ( I think) to sit in the space in my modelling room. Given that even now, almost 50 years after going metric, plywood is most readily available in 96x48 inch sheets this is an extravagant use of material. That said it was a freebe.

[Harlequin]

Investing in a compound mitre saw will pay you back over and over again in terms of speed of working and accuracy of cuts.