Warren Branch

[chuffinghell]

9 minutes ago, Alister_G said:

 

Yep, that's what I would have suggested. just a smidge in the bottom, and traces up the steps.

 

It's all looking very good indeed, lovely job.

 

Al.

 

Thanks Al

 

Chris

[chuffinghell]

4 hours ago, Adrian Stevenson said:

I think the lighter ash looks good.

Cheers, Ade.

 

Thanks Ade

 

Just trying my best as always

 

Chris

[Martin S-C]

What were your tree methods with the sea moss Chris? Just stick a few bits together to make a shape you liked, spray colour, then spray with hair lacquer and sprinkle greenery on?

[chuffinghell]

39 minutes ago, Martin S-C said:

What were your tree methods with the sea moss Chris? Just stick a few bits together to make a shape you liked, spray colour, then spray with hair lacquer and sprinkle greenery on?

I didn’t have to stick any bits together, just trimmed off the top and a few stragglers here and there sprayed it all over with Vallejo brunt umber (because that’s the only brown I had) once dry I sprayed it with a mounting adhesive and dabbed on some dark green flock, sprayed it with more glue and sprinkled a lighter green over the top through a tea strainer

[chuffinghell]

A platelayers trolley left forgotten under the tree 

 

 

If it’s left there much longer it’ll have foliage growing around it

 

I’ve also got a set of platelayers tools that I’m thinking of placing on and around the trolley maybe?

 

Edited October 28, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

The platelayers trolley is a Cooper Craft kit, not one of their best kits but it looks quite good IMO

 

The only enhancements made were to make the grooves between the wooden planks deeper with an engineers scribe to better accept the washes and powders and I've used styrene rod for the axles so I could use liquid cement.......because I've misplaced my superglue

 

I attempted to use the hairspray and powders technique on the wheels for a heavily rusty effect but I think it would have been better to use powdered artists pastels instead of weathering powders......but it still looks okay and I can always have another go

 

Just a shame that Cooper Craft kits are quickly becoming as rare as rocking horse poo

[chuffinghell]

On 19/10/2019 at 14:22, Rowsley17D said:

Yep, that's nice and subtle. How about a length of semi-curled up hosepipe and an old bucket?

I’m still thinking about it!

 

But I think I’d need thinner wire though

[chuffinghell]

Not so sure that I like having a hose on the standpipe so I'm going to come back to that another time

 

 

Edited October 30, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

I thought I may have overdone the ash around the ash pit but it doesn’t look out of place with a loco on the track

[Rowsley17D]

20 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I’m still thinking about it!

 

But I think I’d need thinner wire though

 

I was thinking of a few loops around the tap/valve, but definitely thinner wire/wire cover. Something like decoder wire? The ash looks good too. How about a few drops of that glazing stuff you put in the bucket top in the shed to represent pools of water in pit?

[chuffinghell]

11 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

 

I was thinking of a few loops around the tap/valve....

 

I must have misinterpreted your previous suggestion

 

11 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

Something like decoder wire?

 

Funny you should say decoder wire because I've ordered a short length as a sample only 0.5mm dia (nominal)

 

12 minutes ago, Rowsley17D said:

The ash looks good too. How about a few drops of that glazing stuff you put in the bucket top in the shed to represent pools of water in pit?

 

Thanks Jonathan

 

I tried my best to pinch your idea 

 

After spraying a little water to help with the ballast gluing I did think the pit looked rather good 'wet' as if it had recently been hosed down.......definitely food for thought

[chuffinghell]

I’ve made a second attempt at the point rodding, probably the most fiddly thing I’ve had to do but I’m getting there slowly

 

only in place with blutack, I’m hoping I can do it better when gluing it down

 

still need to glue pads to the underside to get a better height for ballasting

 

I may have bitten off more than I can chew 

 

 

Edited October 30, 2019 by chuffinghell
Spelling correction

[Andrew P]

Keep persevering Chris, the Point Rodding is well worth the effort and time put in, you will appreciate it with every photo you take once it's done.

[chuffinghell]

8 hours ago, Andrew P said:

Keep persevering Chris, the Point Rodding is well worth the effort and time put in, you will appreciate it with every photo you take once it's done.

 

Thanks Andy

 

I'm not easily defeated so I will keep trying (I can be very trying )

 

I possibly went too far by reducing the centres of all the supports by 2mm so they were evenly spaced by the time it got to the crank. You can see the black pen markings on the board are of the original centres and the arrow marking where I needed the support to finish (a difference of 12mm, hence the 2mm removed from the six pitches)

 

Unmodified six pitches would have been a little too long (by about 4-5mm) but five ptiches miles too short.......it just didn't look right either way, I could have just reduced the centres of the last pair of supports but that would have played havoc with my OCD 

 

 

I've done this so that the last support could be cut in half at the baseboard joint........there is usually method in my madness

 

These extra joins have exaggerated the wibbywobblyness 

 

 

 

Edited October 31, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

I realise they are oversize and probably should be round bar instead of square but being a rebel without a clue I decided to use rule#1

 

So Warren is now GWR(ish) 

 

The only question now is what colour to paint them?........I'm leaning towards a weathered galvanised finish (silver-grey)

 

 

 

Edited October 31, 2019 by chuffinghell

[Nick C]

8 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I realise they are oversize and probably should be round bar instead of square but being a rebel without a clue I decided to use rule#1

 

So Warren is now GWR(ish) 

 

The only question now is what colour to paint them?........I'm leaning towards a weathered galvanised finish (silver-grey)

 

 

 

Very dark weathered grey I'd say, with a lot of brake dust and oil in the mix - considering where they are. 

[chuffinghell]

1 hour ago, Nick C said:

Very dark weathered grey I'd say, with a lot of brake dust and oil in the mix - considering where they are. 

In that case would Railmatch ‘oily steel’ be suitable?

[Alister_G]

48 minutes ago, chuffinghell said:

In that case would Railmatch ‘oily steel’ be suitable?

 

That sounds like a good match, although I've never used it, so don't know what it looks like.

 

You could weather it with something brownish, for brake dust, but not rusty colour necessarily.

 

Al.

[chuffinghell]

11 hours ago, Alister_G said:

 

That sounds like a good match, although I've never used it, so don't know what it looks like.

 

You could weather it with something brownish, for brake dust, but not rusty colour necessarily.

 

Al.

 

Unusually for me I'll be painting the rodding in situ, normally I paint things before attaching them but in this case I thought it better to paint it after I'd finished messing about with it because I'd probably end up having to touch it up anyway

[chuffinghell]

Well it’s down, used styrene strip to get it to the required height.....and surprisingly it doesn’t look too bad

 

 

 

This is the only section that requires the rodding to follow a curve....fortunately

[chuffinghell]

I’ve give it a spray of railmatch ‘oily steel’ looks a bit darker than I’d hoped but I still need to do a little weathering and once the buff colour ballast is underneath I’m sure it will look better

 

 

I’ve no doubt put the pulley in the wrong place 

 

 

It will also need a coat of Matt varnish

Edited November 1, 2019 by chuffinghell

[chuffinghell]

Any help regarding the position of the pulley would be appreciated 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Nick C]

The wire needs to approach the signal from behind, so you probably need two pulleys, one as in your last pic, and one opposite, to route the cable under the rails. You should then have a detector in line with the tie bar of the point, which checks that the points are in the correct position before allowing the signal to be cleared. I'm afraid that the signal is in the wrong place though - it needs to be past the ends of the point blades...

Edited November 1, 2019 by Nick C

[chuffinghell]

31 minutes ago, Nick C said:

The wire needs to approach the signal from behind, so you probably need two pulleys, one as in your last pic, and one opposite, to route the cable under the rails. You should then have a detector in line with the tie bar of the point, which checks that the points are in the correct position before allowing the signal to be cleared. I'm afraid that the signal is in the wrong place though - it needs to be past the ends of the point blades...

Many thanks

 

As an alternative (compromise) I’m going to move the signal further towards the end of the point blades

 

 

and assume the cable operates the signal from the front instead of the back

 

I’m not going to the trouble of running cables though

 

Edited November 1, 2019 by chuffinghell

[St Enodoc]

2 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

Many thanks

 

As an alternative (compromise) I’m going to move the signal further towards the end of the point blades

 

 

and assume the cable operates the signal from the front instead of the back

 

I’m not going to the trouble of running cables though

 

Nick is right. Move the signal and the pulley one more timber and you'll be fine Chris.