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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, Nile said:

Unless it's a Tardis you won't get much more in. You'd better find something else to distract you until the LEDs arrive.


I’ve got some blue paint :P

 

1 hour ago, AlfaZagato said:

Build a wagon kit.

 

I’ve got lots to be getting on with, I just like to finish what I’ve started before moving on to the next thing otherwise I end up with many part finished projects (I’m just strange)

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold
8 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

I’ve got a Cambrian 6ton crane kit to build but I’ve struggled to get hold of the correct Alan Gibson wheels so I’ve had to leave it for the time being

Cambrian have both sorts in stock...

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  • RMweb Gold

I’ve been thinking about the final position of the signal box and positioning of pulleys etc 

 

Would something like this be acceptable?
 

4D46842F-EE35-4C5C-84B0-F9A81A436CB8.jpeg.f7b7183757c44d42b825c8322bb3949b.jpeg
 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

Wheels would be in line with the wire run to the signals, so think how the wires would lead off from there.  I suspect closer to the track so that they would clear the edge of the platform.  You can get a bit of curvature in a wire run, but more significant changes of direction would need another set of wheels and associated slings (signal wire is not flexible enough to go round a wheel so it is terminated on a chain or flexible wire rope sling either side of each wheel).  (One of my few bits of hands on mechanical signalling maintenance back in 1975!)

Paul.

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  • RMweb Premium
16 minutes ago, 5BarVT said:

Wheels would be in line with the wire run to the signals, so think how the wires would lead off from there.  I suspect closer to the track so that they would clear the edge of the platform.  You can get a bit of curvature in a wire run, but more significant changes of direction would need another set of wheels and associated slings (signal wire is not flexible enough to go round a wheel so it is terminated on a chain or flexible wire rope sling either side of each wheel).  (One of my few bits of hands on mechanical signalling maintenance back in 1975!)

Paul.

Do you remember how to splice a cable?

 

No, nor do I.

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  • RMweb Gold
29 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Do you remember how to splice a cable?

Yes.  And how to fit one round a thimble at a joint. 

And I still use the knowledge: picture frame wire is the same 7 strand as signal wire, just smaller.

Paul.

Edited by 5BarVT
Missing word
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  • RMweb Premium
1 hour ago, 5BarVT said:

Yes.  And how to fit one round a thimble at a joint. 

And I still use the knowledge: picture frame wire is the same 7 strand as signal wire, just smaller.

Paul.

You're a better man than I, Gunga Din.

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  • RMweb Gold
8 hours ago, 5BarVT said:

Wheels would be in line with the wire run to the signals, so think how the wires would lead off from there.  I suspect closer to the track so that they would clear the edge of the platform.  You can get a bit of curvature in a wire run, but more significant changes of direction would need another set of wheels and associated slings (signal wire is not flexible enough to go round a wheel so it is terminated on a chain or flexible wire rope sling either side of each wheel).  (One of my few bits of hands on mechanical signalling maintenance back in 1975!)

Paul.


Thanks Paul

 

Is this feasible?

 

50F5F4A4-C31E-4303-A43E-453979EC0AD5.jpeg.dd33b2ddd074624f48cee64fb824a41b.jpeg
 

I’m not going to actually cable up the pulleys but this would be their imaginary path

 

906ADD10-BC35-45BE-A0BF-77E5F2E5BC17.jpeg.2a6ea592dc6b0f675ed832cd9730b303.jpeg


I’d prefer the box a few millimetres shy of the ramp so you can see the rods going into the box

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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  • RMweb Gold

Before I commit myself does the above look feasible?

 

I’m going to replace the single and double pulley (circled)......

 

7DCF321E-A356-40D8-BD25-FABD53413479.jpeg.018a5b40be32c75b66484cad27aa9a0d.jpeg

 

.......with three single pulleys offset diagonally from each other

B9C54820-168F-44C2-8484-CB0CA1502452.jpeg.10ca1d49c7022c7f67eef307ec9f4bdf.jpeg

 

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  • RMweb Gold
30 minutes ago, GWR57xx said:

Hi Chris,

Don't know if you've seen this website, but thought there might be something of interest - photos show detail of point rodding and signal wires at Bridgnorth (Severn Valley Railway):

http://www.norgrove.me.uk/resources/rodding.htm

 

Nice work!


Thank you,
 

I remember looking on that site at the very start of planning the rods but I couldn’t find it again

 

My main concern with the pulley positions was cables having to run diagonally which I thought was wrong but then I found this....

 

CFBC23FB-D1A7-4722-B4FE-0D1AB9493CE4.jpeg.599e48fc863a1ef44814198a4ebb29bb.jpeg

 

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  • RMweb Gold
1 hour ago, GWR57xx said:

All the photos at Bridgnorth show signal cables going round pulleys without using chains


Interesting

 

1 hour ago, GWR57xx said:

Don't know what the significance of that is.

We're chains introduced later?

 

I can’t answer that one but I’m sure someone could

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  • RMweb Gold
2 hours ago, GWR57xx said:

All the photos at Bridgnorth show signal cables going round pulleys without using chains.

Not quite: they are wire ropes (flexible).  If you look carefully you can see where some of them are joined to the signal wire.

2 hours ago, GWR57xx said:

Don't know what the significance of that is.

Were chains introduced later?

I think wire rope replaced chains.

Paul.

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  • RMweb Gold
11 hours ago, 5BarVT said:

Not quite: they are wire ropes (flexible).  If you look carefully you can see where some of them are joined to the signal wire.

I think wire rope replaced chains.

Paul.


mine will have invisible chains and signal wire :lol:

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  • RMweb Gold

My knob has fallen off and I don’t know were it is!

 

I was a little annoyed last night, being mildly autistic I have my locos on display all facing the same way so didn’t notice this on the other side

4E9AE25B-6758-430C-A906-93781891B7D3.jpeg.770f68c7d42a57f3372aedd433f3b357.jpeg

 

I was particularly annoyed because this has been modified, I’ve changed the livery from GWR to GREAT WESTERN and added etched plates

 

Anyway after sleeping on it I had a look in my parts box and have some brass handrail knobs I’ve used on other projects and fortunately it fits with a little persuasion
 

9F5122CC-D34A-4CFD-ADE4-000C01EA8F92.jpeg.dc1c04579a9ac877f9c6ebe812a30c04.jpeg

 

Doesn't look too bad after blackening

 

7BF1A2C0-119B-41C8-BF49-BD92AAF9D4F1.jpeg.6f6172d6e16b8fd528f2dc2a927bfca8.jpeg

 

Phew!!! Disaster averted

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  • RMweb Gold
23 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Well done. The original will turn up now.


Thank you

 

You're probably right although it could have been like that for months, I only noticed because I needed to add the coal load


F55287C9-182F-444A-AEF4-DCA84E92532E.jpeg.4845a608fcd6e171c0283256871c39e3.jpeg

 

I filled away the moulded coal on the casting because I didn’t want it over filled.....an excuse to visit the coaling stage :lol: but it needs a little more

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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Put it down to running repairs. The real thing ends up like the proverbial woodsman's axe over time.

 

How did you manage to get the GWR transfers off without damaging the original paintwork?

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1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:


I use microset to remove transfers

Never heard of that! I will have to have a look online and find some. I have a couple of locomotives that need backdating to about 1938.

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