Triang L1 detailing

[Wickham Green]

Mainly Trains parts have been available from Wizard Models for quite some time. Well over a year.

 

https://www.wizardmodels.ltd/?filter_3_manufacturer=mainly_trains

 

 

Also look at what PDK have as parts as they actually make a L1 kit and have started to sell parts separately.

 

http://www.pdkmodels.co.uk/index.html

 

Don't forget Brassmasters who also have plenty of parts. Including proper SR lamp irons. The Mainly Trains ones are apparently overscale.

 

http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/index.html

 

 

 

Jason

Ah, I'd guess the PDK L1 is the former Crownline kit as the rest of the range has similarities.

 

Nice to see the Mainly Trains bits have found a home - though the 'N' detailing kit didn't come up when I searched for their 'SR' stuff for some reason. ( No sign of the matching tender chassis that I could see.)

[cabbie37]

Very many thanks for those who have contributed recently. There are some good pointers there. I have to say, it wasn't my intention to start a thread and *actually* do the work, I was just going to get my thoughts in order for what I might need. However, it seems that there is some expectation amongst you that I actually *do* some modelling....

 

So my idea is to start with the chassis modification and I have fired of an email to Markits this afternoon seeking pricing and availibilty - their list on-line some 5 years old. I need the frame spacers at a minimum and some top hat bearings. My intention is to use the driving wheels scavenged from the scrap T9 I bought as a first attempt and I think the axles for them are 2mm.

 

I'll be very happy to have your comments and observations as I go through this. Like I say, it's been a while and my intention is to model at a far higher standard than I did before...

[cabbie37]

So, it has started. SImple beginnings. 

 

I have 2 locos to play with, so I have a fall back position if I foul anything up. Here they are showing the difference that can be made by simply swapping the tender for something more appropriate (in this case, one from a Hornby King Arthur)

 

 

 

Having had a closer look at both models, I realised slight differences between the two as one had a smoke unit. I chose the latter as the chassis side frames were 'bright' brass, whereas the other chassis seemed to have been 'blackened'. My thinking was that the brass one would be easier to prep for any subsequent soldering that will take place.

 

Half an hour's work with a small screwdriver left me with this.

 

 

That was the easy bit. Next thing is to remove the wheels etc and then drill out the 3 mounts where the brass side frames are connected to the mazak centre. Fortunately, I have a pal who is an amateur jeweller who has a small pillar drill, so i can be sure to drill at a perfect right angle. I'm assuming that fitting the Markits frame spacers at those same points won't give me any problems later on. As an aside, does anyone know what the clearance hole needs to be for the screw on the frame spacers? I don't have them to hand yet, waiting to hear back from Markits.

 

I also want to check the wheel base, hoping it will be the scale 40mm. I'm not quite sure how to proceed from that point. One of the most important things to do is to lower the body by 2 or 3mm so the frames line up with the tender. I do wonder whether that might be one of the first things I do, so fitting a motor and gear box (I want the cab empty for proper detail) so I can see how to achieve that..

 

As ever, suggestions as to my next steps will be welcome, nay, encouraged!

 

Subsequent edit to get rid of the appalling number of typos...

Edited October 12, 2018 by cabbie37

[chris25]

These L1's are built from modified Pdk/Crownline kits, with abit of scratchbuilding here and there.

 

I hope they give you some inspiration for your planned model.

 

Regards

 

Chris White

[cabbie37]

Very nice, Chris, very nice.. I doubt my rehash of a 50 year old Triang model will be able to match these, but I'll do my best. A little more time spent since I last posted has left me with my L1 now looking like this...

 

 

I can do little more on the chassis now until I know what the drill size is I need for the frame spacers I plan to fit. In the meantime I can start looking at the work I need to do on the bodywork enhancements....

[cabbie37]

As I am still yet to hear back from Markits as to availibilty of components I need, I have been pondering the work I will need to do on the body. Much of it is fairly obvious to me, carving away existing mouldings for hand rails etc, but the area that needs most thought is the reconstruction of the cab area. There are a couple of elements to this. First, I wish to create a fairly good representation of the cab detail itself, backhead etc etc. I will need to make room for that detail and provide a floor. Similarly, both bodies I have have sufffered some damage in varying ways to where the tab on the chassis located, and this needs to be repaired. The most important thing, I think, is creating somewhere and a method of creating a point for the chassis to be located. There are two aspects of this, as well. One is just the locating point and two is setting the height of the loco so it aligns with the running plate of the tender.

 

 

This is where I probably could so with some guidance. Up until now, I have just been taking things apart, now i have to do some actual modelling!

Edited October 17, 2018 by cabbie37

[hayfield]

Very nice, Chris, very nice.. I doubt my rehash of a 50 year old Triang model will be able to match these, but I'll do my best. A little more time spent since I last posted has left me with my L1 now looking like this...

 

DSC_0153.JPG

 

I can do little more on the chassis now until I know what the drill size is I need for the frame spacers I plan to fit. In the meantime I can start looking at the work I need to do on the bodywork enhancements....

 

I have some brass round frame spacers which are a tad under 10 mm wide and take an 8ba bolt which is just over 2 mm in diameter. These I think are from the brass bar type chassis era rather than etched chassis era

[cabbie37]

Thanks John - they may well be the ones. However, this morning I have been trying to chase up the Markits bits and pieces. I sent an enquiry to Markits last week and have had no reply. The phone isnt answered (or they are permanently on calls) when I try to ring. I've tried another retailer who cant provide everything I want - particularly the frame spacers. As I would imagine I am not the only one to wish to purchase these sorts of bits and pieces, does anyone have any suggestions as to where I could track down the following - preferably from one supplier..

 

Frame Spacers - 4MA019  9.5mm (3)
Sandbox – MarkitsM4SandBx/Q1 

Snifter valves - MARKITS M40B M4SNIFTSR 4MM SCALE

Clack valves - MARKITS M90 MCLACK-SR COMPLETE 

Buffers - MARKITS M71 M4BUFLOCOSR 4MM 
Safety Valve MARKITS M62 M4SFTYV01 4MM SCALE

Safety Valve MARKITS M62 M4SFTYV02 4MM SCALE

Axle bush Markits MRAXFB24 2mm Axle Bush 4mm o/d x 3mm

[hayfield]

 

Thanks John - they may well be the ones. However, this morning I have been trying to chase up the Markits bits and pieces. I sent an enquiry to Markits last week and have had no reply. The phone isnt answered (or they are permanently on calls) when I try to ring. I've tried another retailer who cant provide everything I want - particularly the frame spacers. As I would imagine I am not the only one to wish to purchase these sorts of bits and pieces, does anyone have any suggestions as to where I could track down the following - preferably from one supplier..

 

Frame Spacers - 4MA019  9.5mm (3)

Sandbox – MarkitsM4SandBx/Q1 

Snifter valves - MARKITS M40B M4SNIFTSR 4MM SCALE

Clack valves - MARKITS M90 MCLACK-SR COMPLETE 

Buffers - MARKITS M71 M4BUFLOCOSR 4MM 

Safety Valve MARKITS M62 M4SFTYV01 4MM SCALE

Safety Valve MARKITS M62 M4SFTYV02 4MM SCALE

Axle bush Markits MRAXFB24 2mm Axle Bush 4mm o/d x 3mm

 

Hugh

 

I have looked at the only drawing I have of the L1 in Russells Pictorial History of Southern locos, some of the fixings look much the same on other classes from the sale era, namely the N, U and Q class locos. Parts for these are available from Southeastern Finecast, they are cast whitemetal and the quality may not be so good but there will be a decent saving. A large stamped self addressed envelope with a request for a parts list for each might resolve your issues, 

[cabbie37]

Thanks. I have the same book - and some others on related classes so will have a look at this. As I am going through this, I am better understanding the bits and pieces I need and where I mght source them..

 

I'll fire a letter off to SEF tomorrow..

[hayfield]

Sadly the plan is not that detailed, but using it and photo's may assist

[clarkeeboy56]

I'm also building/ converting a Triang L1. I've put mine on T9 chassis, with replacement motor mount following the dreaded Mazak failure! There are photo's in the link below

[Guest Jack Benson]

A very interesting thread, is there any further progress or was finding the various bits an uphill struggle? 
 

I ask because I had the same experience putting the bits together for an 0395 GAP kit but found a great deal of help by Andrew Hartshorne of Model Signals.

 

Cheers and Stay Safe

 

 

[RobMG]

I have a drawing if still needed. I started to modify one of these back in the 80s but never finished it due to the fact my wife went off with another bloke, which rather turned my life upside down.  I gave the L1 to a friend to finish. I didn't see it again, but I think he did do it.

I started to scratch build a chassis ,  Etched chassis weren't too common in those days. 

 

Rob

[cypherman]

Hi all,

The L1 was one of the first engines I ever tried to repaint and detail about 45 years ago. I still have it. But it is not up to the standards I see here.  Here is my humble effort from long ago.

Edited June 23, 2020 by cypherman

[33C]

Drop the 1 and go L for leather..............Airfix Schools frames, L1 body,wheels and bogie, Hornby tender drive and scratchbuilt tender body, cab and splashers from printers tin.  

Edited February 24, 2023 by 33C
added photo.

[cypherman]

Hi all,

I have just bought 2 more Triang L1's. As they are both boxed and in wonderful condition I am not sure if they will remain this way or get modified. I look forwards to seeing your finished engine. It may give me the inspiration to change them. The malachite engine had one set of bogie wheels in black. That has now changed and they are malachite. The olive green L1 needed new cab handrails. They have been fitted.

[33C]

Don't know if this goes in this thread as it used to be an L1 but, it's now a Dunalastair IV! Finally finished the paint. Phew!

 

 

 

Edited February 24, 2023 by 33C
added detail

[cypherman]

Hi Wickham,

I look forwards to seeing your engine finished.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 1, 2021 by cypherman

[SteveyDee68]

Good morning!

 

Have just relocated this thread as I picked up a Triang L1 off eBay a while ago for a very reasonable price with a view to upgrading it, as per this thread …

 

Except that the Great RMWeb Crash has took with it most of the photos etc posted on the thread!

 

Wondering if all the contributors might be willing to repost their images and restore this thread so it might once again assist others (me!) in improving the old loco?

 

This may all be a little redundant with the forthcoming release of a new RTR model from Rails of Sheffield, but having got the base model I’d really like to attempt to improve it as shown here.

 

Steve S