Crosland Posted January 9, 2021 Share Posted January 9, 2021 13 minutes ago, TomE said: Thought I’d try one with the side panels in place. Didn’t turn out too bad, although ideally I need to angle the print so the suction force from the walkway is reduced. Tom. Nice. I think that would pass muster from any normal viewing distance. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium eldavo Posted January 9, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 9, 2021 That looks like an excellent result. Those stair panels are really going to be a test for the printer. ;-) Cheers Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted January 9, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2021 1 hour ago, MikeTrice said: Part of the prototype for comparison: I'm not looking forward doing that long, curved section that runs alongside the shed! Tom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted January 9, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 9, 2021 1 minute ago, eldavo said: That looks like an excellent result. Those stair panels are really going to be a test for the printer. ;-) Cheers Dave I think the stairs will have to be etched, although I may try one just to see how/if it comes out on printer! Tom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted January 9, 2021 Share Posted January 9, 2021 (edited) I’ve been pondering this phenomenon of lines when the cross section changes significantly. My experience of automation within chitubox for support generation does not give me confidence of an update to that software as a solution but willing to be proven wrong. I’ve only printed a few wagon bodies (no tilt) thus far that are of any size and I might be able to see a bit of this change in the layers happening where the sides start above the floor. What I was thinking about was why print the floor as part of the wagon? Because we can might not be a great reason. Large flat areas could perhaps be more usefully added as a separate large flat piece, perhaps from another medium. Many wagons don’t actually need a complete floor. Edited January 9, 2021 by richbrummitt 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted January 10, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 10, 2021 I posted a bit more on the layout thread about this, but here is the larger section printed last night. As I expected, printing the walkway flat to the plate resulted in some distortion through suction forces. I’ll probably try printing just the walkway & sides at an angle to try and reduce that effect next. Tom. 12 4 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted January 10, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 10, 2021 (edited) That is a thing of beauty and a first class example of the medium being used to produce something that can't easily be made by hand. I can't see any distortions. David Edited January 10, 2021 by Kylestrome 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted January 11, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 11, 2021 Trying out a slightly different approach, in printing the walkway separately so it can be printed angled thus reducing the surface area. The detail along the lower edge is already much better: Tom. 15 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 31 minutes ago, TomE said: Trying out a slightly different approach, in printing the walkway separately so it can be printed angled thus reducing the surface area. The detail along the lower edge is already much better: Tom. Stunning work 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RBE Posted January 11, 2021 Share Posted January 11, 2021 On 10/01/2021 at 12:42, TomE said: I posted a bit more on the layout thread about this, but here is the larger section printed last night. As I expected, printing the walkway flat to the plate resulted in some distortion through suction forces. I’ll probably try printing just the walkway & sides at an angle to try and reduce that effect next. Tom. What you class as acceptable distortions and what I do are clearly too different things. I am just glad it comes off in one piece most of the time. 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Hi. Sometimes I just cant help myself! 30 mins design, about 45 mins in total printing. (If anyone wants the files then let me know) Julia 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradfordbuffer Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 1 hour ago, -missy- said: Hi. Sometimes I just cant help myself! 30 mins design, about 45 mins in total printing. (If anyone wants the files then let me know) Julia Brill but IKEA shut till April! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeysarefun Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 2 hours ago, -missy- said: Hi. Sometimes I just cant help myself! 30 mins design, about 45 mins in total printing. (If anyone wants the files then let me know) Julia I realised recently that since all my time has been spent dabbling in laser cutting and 3D printing I haven't used a pencil since 2018 or so.. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 (edited) Version 3 of the OK F axlebox is working out reasonably well. The first version required the holes drilling through the initial layers, which was a pain. Version 2 lifted off the bed and tried to orient in a way that facilitated cleaning/clearing of the hole. It failed due to holes in the print, being difficult to remove from the bed and the separation point not being obvious enough to see and find. The hole was still often not defined or obvious due to the over processing required for the initial layers. Now the lift part of the print has an obvious step to cut into (achieved easily with a JLC saw as recommended by Ian M) and the initial hole size is much larger allowing the cleaner to do it’s thing and the hole is clear from the off. It takes 18mins to print 3 dozen axle boxes. The border aids removal from the plate and prevents them falling through the basket in the wash machine. Each box takes about a minute to separate with the aforementioned saw. Edited February 4, 2021 by richbrummitt Incomplete sentence 8 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
danmk1 Posted February 21, 2021 Share Posted February 21, 2021 Hi. Was hoping someone might be able to advise on a problem I've been having with a print? No matter what angle and layer height I print at I have been getting these lines on the sides of the coaches. I am using Anycubic Black with a Photon and have tried .02 to .05 layer heights at various angles, even happened when I printed flat on the bed. Thanks in advance Dan 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium nick_bastable Posted February 21, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 21, 2021 On 16/01/2021 at 20:16, -missy- said: Hi. Sometimes I just cant help myself! 30 mins design, about 45 mins in total printing. (If anyone wants the files then let me know) Julia just the thing to draw loco handrail guides Nick B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebnoswal Posted February 27, 2021 Share Posted February 27, 2021 (edited) A work in progress which is slowly getting closer to to finishing. It comprises 2x SD&JR 10T Ballast Brake Vans and 6 x 8T 3 plank wagons. The brake van chassis uses drop-in W irons There was some lift on one corner on the printer, so adding a skirt that can be sanded-off should help prevent this. Edited February 27, 2021 by nebnoswal update 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965Nick Posted March 15, 2021 Share Posted March 15, 2021 On 20/05/2020 at 09:16, TomE said: Decided to have a crack at some B4 bogies since it’s difficult to get Farish ones on stock I can repurpose now. Pretty pleased with these! Will let them thoroughly cure for a few days before removing the support and trying wheelsets in them. Tom. Tom, are these available to buy? The MK1 parts you’ve done look really good. The generic coach body looks really useful. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A. Bastow Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 (edited) Hi folks, There's some really inspirational stuff in this thread so I thought I'd share one of the things that I've been working on over the past few months. It's an LNWR full brake to D377 drawn up in Fusion 360. I have used the association LNWR bogie etches with DG couplings, and I have some turned brass buffers that aren't yet fitted. The windows will be glazed with spare pieces of clear plastic that one tends to find lying around the house. Still undecided on which paint scheme it will receive; LNWR or LMS? Things I would do differently; not sure that the roof needs to be separate so in future I would probably revisit this so that the floor is separate from the body shell instead. It will allow for easier attachment of the bogies. They are held in with some screw threaded brass rod with some plain brass soldered on as a stopper (in a T shape), a nut at the other end secures it all in place. I am working on some wagon bodies as well to L&Y dia.3 but they need some adjustment before I'd be happy sharing the results of my labours with that. All the best, Adam Edited March 26, 2021 by A. Bastow Correction 15 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 That looks great Adam! On 26/03/2021 at 13:03, A. Bastow said: Things I would do differently; not sure that the roof needs to be separate so in future I would probably revisit this so that the floor is separate from the body shell instead. Assuming you're using a resin printer like a Photon or similar, printing without roof or floor is probably actually really helping! If you include both vertical and horizontal surfaces, however you orient the print you'll get a dramatic change in surface area, which will cause suction issues and kinds of witness marks at that layer in the print. Your current design with a separate roof probably helps avoid that nicely? J Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted March 28, 2021 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 28, 2021 On 15/03/2021 at 20:57, 1965Nick said: Tom, are these available to buy? The MK1 parts you’ve done look really good. The generic coach body looks really useful. Hi Nick. Unfortunately not. At the moment I just don't have the free time to produce them en masse for sale I'm afraid. Tom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A. Bastow Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 (edited) 52 minutes ago, justin1985 said: That looks great Adam! Assuming you're using a resin printer like a Photon or similar, printing without roof or floor is probably actually really helping! If you include both vertical and horizontal surfaces, however you orient the print you'll get a dramatic change in surface area, which will cause suction issues and kinds of witness marks at that layer in the print. Your current design with a separate roof probably helps avoid that nicely? J Thanks Justin. I honestly wouldn't know about the print orientation and vacuum formation during the print process; I farm all my printing out to a friend who has a resin printer. I left the roof off initially for ease of painting rather than anything else. On the design the floor is in place as a solid entity with holes for the bogie pivots - which probably helped like you say, having an open side. I thought that it may be easier to avoid unsightly gaps where the roof and coach meet if they were unified in the design. The roof could also be a bit more substantial. At the moment it is very flimsy. I was hoping that with a redesign all the joins could be done away with or hidden inside. Perhaps a bit of trussing support designed onto the inside of roof as it is now would be a good option without having to chop the design up in Fusion. Thanks for the inspiration! I'm happy with how well it turned out though for a first go at a 3d printed coach. I'll have to get some paint on it and then see how it looks after that. Adam Edited March 28, 2021 by A. Bastow 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Hello. I was asked by @2mm Andy to see if it was possible to generate a 3D printed wheel centre that could be printed with NO MACHINING. Today I thought I would give it a go. I haven't clocked it yet but initial checks looks like it is possible,.. 7 1 4 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Scottish Modeller Posted March 28, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 28, 2021 (edited) Hi Missy, Great looking wheel - not sure if I have any need for them, but great to see them anyway. One of the things I've been looking at are some 9 spoke, 3ft*wagon wheels - to go into the 2fs rims and fit the 2fs axles. Now, I know next to nothing (at present) about how to do this, but am starting by learning 3D CAD as that seems to be the way to get a handle on that aspect. Thanks Phil H edit * may be 3ft 1+1/2in Edited March 28, 2021 by Scottish Modeller Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crosland Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 I have finally (4 months later!) unboxed and tried out my Mars 2 Pro. Trying not to be the typical bloke I actually read the instructions and printed the test piece, which went well. My son noticed the text on this says "3d Printer Torture Piece" Thanks to Sithlord I also successfully printed from one of his LNWR .stl files. I also printed some light pipes that I eventually want to print in clear resin. Out of 4 orientations, only one was successful. And then the problems started. I want to print what is basically a flat plate about 2.5x10cm and 2mm thick. It has a few holes and some embossed text. I am trying to print it vertically (long edge parallel to the build plate) in order to maximise the number that can be printed at once. The first attempt (with mostly chitubox automatic supports) resulted in only the supports being printed. The remainder was just a blob stuck to the FEP. I guessed that the first layer of the long edge to be printed became detached from the supports, due to the suction on the FEP so, for the second attempt, I added more supports and made them thicker where they attach to the piece. This time, however, I got nothing at all, apart from the blob on the FEP, not even the supports. Can anyone offer any suggestions on how to print such an item? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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