Jump to content
 

Need a OHLE solution for layout lifting section


Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Gold

I’m having my baseboards and trestles built by The Little Layout Company as they are close to me as well as my wood butchery is truly rubbish but I’m having a drop leaf left out section as I’m disabled and can’t get under the layout. I’d like to install OHLE on the layout but stumped when it comes to the lift out section.

 

The catenary won’t be powered so it won’t matter if there’s a break in the wires but had anyone had the same problem and managed to get round it?

Link to post
Share on other sites

What if it didn't lift or drop but rotated out the way? That way you'd just need a break in the wires.

You need to get the shapes of the various boards right but it should be possible.

 

Pretty sure I've seen that somewhere but of course I can't find an example now but the principle would be similar to a curved sector plate.

I'll keep looking.

 

Update: Here's the concept, from Pintrest: https://i.pinimg.com/originals/bc/e3/0f/bce30f15fd9eaf0d141e78bdc0c321d5.gif

 

Simon

Edited by NScaleNotes
Link to post
Share on other sites

I’m having my baseboards and trestles built by The Little Layout Company as they are close to me as well as my wood butchery is truly rubbish but I’m having a drop leaf left out section as I’m disabled and can’t get under the layout. I’d like to install OHLE on the layout but stumped when it comes to the lift out section.

 

The catenary won’t be powered so it won’t matter if there’s a break in the wires but had anyone had the same problem and managed to get round it?

Maybe my brain is just not working well enough this evening :-) but when you say that "The catenary won’t be powered so it won’t matter if there’s a break in the wires", then what is the problem that you are trying to address exactly?

 

Am I right to guess/assume that your 'lift out' section is actually going to be hinged at one end, so therefore the problem may be that the OHLE on the lifting board at the hinge end will have to go back into the space occupied by the OHLE on the fixed board? In that case, is there enough space to make the hinged section wider than might otherwise be necessary so that it can drop down rather than lift up, but still leave you room to get past it without damaging whatever is on the moving section? That would solve the problem.

 

Alternatively, could you have a small stretch of OHLE at the end of the fixed board that is on a small sub-base inset into the main baseboard, so that you lift that piece out first to leave a gap in the OHLE for the main hinged board to swing back?

 

Or am I barking up the wrong tree altogether here????

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

My main concerns are damage to pantographs when they come off the wires, cross the lift out section and then back under the wires. I was wondering as the train came towards the gap and the pantograph started to rise, get the contact wires to rise as well so there’s no damage to the pantograph. And the reverse coming off the lift off section and back under the wires if the makes sense?

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

My main concerns are damage to pantographs when they come off the wires, cross the lift out section and then back under the wires. I was wondering as the train came towards the gap and the pantograph started to rise, get the contact wires to rise as well so there’s no damage to the pantograph. And the reverse coming off the lift off section and back under the wires if the makes sense?

 

You do what they do on the real thing when wires swop and get two sections of OLE to overlap.

 

See http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/80403-british-railways-ole-part-four-overlap/

 

Granted your version may not be as neat, but the principle is the same.

Edited by phil-b259
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I was thinking a simpler solution, follow what BR did at Norwich when the electrified the swing bridge over the Trowse. The wires terminate either end of the bridge and there is a solid rail over the bridge. 

 

attachicon.gifBase board OLE.png

 

However the solid rail and wires still overlap at each end - Pantographs on real trains don't like gaps in exactly the same way as model ones!

 

The swing bridge principle however would work for the lift out section

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Another alternative is a curved bit of material fixed to the last mast before the lift out section and another to the first past the lift out section. As the pantograph passes, it lifts gently sky wards and when the train crosses the lift out section it is pushed back down.

 

post-16423-0-86993500-1547931868_thumb.png

Edited by Clive Mortimore
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Another alternative is a curved bit of material fixed to the last mast before the lift out section and another to the first past the lift out section. As the pantograph passes, it lifts gently sky wards and when the train crosses the lift out section it is pushed back down.

 

attachicon.gifBase board OLE 2.png

That’s what I had in mind but is it more easy to damage the pantograph that way than say the solid rail version. I want to get it right first time rather than constantly “tweaking” and the risk of damage.

Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s what I had in mind but is it more easy to damage the pantograph that way than say the solid rail version. I want to get it right first time rather than constantly “tweaking” and the risk of damage.

Deepcar has run with that method of operation at either end of the fiddle yard for umpteen shows over 25 years or so. No damage to pans directly attributable to using the 'ramps' which are made from fairly thick brass wire. So long as your pans are set up properly and don't overstretch when running off the wires all should be ok.

Deepcar will be making another couple of outings this year,28 years after it's first show, at Stafford the weekend after next and GCR(N) at Ruddington in June.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

This may give you some idea. Best pic is about 40 seconds in which shows a v-shaped section of contact strip on land with a wire in the middle on the bridge.

 

Note though that SNCF does not seem to actually use this except in emergency. The trains are coasting across with pantographs down.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you considered just fixing the pantographs so they are just below the wires at a steady height.

Would solve all the de-wiring risks and any imperfections in the wires?

 

If they’re not drawing power there’s no need for the physical rubbing against the wires...

Link to post
Share on other sites

Have you considered just fixing the pantographs so they are just below the wires at a steady height.

Would solve all the de-wiring risks and any imperfections in the wires?

 

If they’re not drawing power there’s no need for the physical rubbing against the wires...

 

I was going to suggest this too.

I read a blog called 1zu160 about European N gauge and they mentioned there was a company manufacturing clips that would hold pantographs at the right height. 

 

I don't know if anyone makes anything similar for 1:148 models, perhaps someone here will know though.

 

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I was going to suggest this too.

I read a blog called 1zu160 about European N gauge and they mentioned there was a company manufacturing clips that would hold pantographs at the right height. 

 

I don't know if anyone makes anything similar for 1:148 models, perhaps someone here will know though.

 

Simon

 

Not difficult to make up your own from fine wire or staples.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...