scratch building track - build in situ or not?

[ikcdab]

when i have built track before i have fixed templates down to bits of mdf, made up the pointwork, then removed the completed point from the template and fixed it to the baseboard.

I am just starting a new layout and I have printed out the templot plot full size and stuck it all together. I am wondering now whether to fix the templot paper plot permanently to the baseboard and build the trackwork on it in situ. This has a number of advantages, especially as i can mark all the rail cuts and feeds, and if i stick directly to the template (with double sided tape) i am guaranteed that the track will be 'true'. If i build it off-site then when i come to fix the points and plain track down, without a template to guide me, the track work can wriggle around in the wind and i risk getting things out of position. i intend tio use SMP flexi-track for plain line and copper clad soldered for pointwork.

But i can see a disadvantage in trying to fix a 4.5m x 1m piece of paper to my baseboard without distorting it.....not sure what adhesive would be best.

What have others done?

Thanks

[Joseph_Pestell]

If your board is 1m wide, can you get to both sides of it while building this pointwork. 1m is too far to stretch while doing delicate work.

[ikcdab]

Yes,  sorry my inaccuracy. My paper was that wide,  but had lots of white space. Track area is 4.5m x 0.5m.

So not to much stretching.

[martin_wynne]

You can print more than one copy of the template from Templot!

 

Stick the full track plan to the baseboard.

 

Print another copy of the template to build, on a board, in comfort, in good light, able to turn it round to get at both sides, able to eye along the rails,  on your workbench.

 

The two templates are identical, so it is guaranteed to line up correctly when placed in situ on the baseboard.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

[ikcdab]

Martin, thanks, that sounds good.

I now have a templot printout 4.5m x 0.5m. I need to stick it to the baseboard. Not keen on any water based glue, I am sure that would be a disaster. Spray mount? Or is there something else to stick large sheets of thin paper accurately to the baseboard?

[bécasse]

1 hour ago, ikcdab said:

 

I now have a templot printout 4.5m x 0.5m. I need to stick it to the baseboard. Not keen on any water based glue, I am sure that would be a disaster. Spray mount? Or is there something else to stick large sheets of thin paper accurately to the baseboard?

If it isn't going to be fixed permanently to the baseboard there is a lot to be said in favour of double-sided tape. Two centimetre lengths of tape every 30 cm (say) will readily hold down a plan like this.

[Siberian Snooper]

12 hours ago, ikcdab said:

Martin, thanks, that sounds good.

I now have a templot printout 4.5m x 0.5m. I need to stick it to the baseboard. Not keen on any water based glue, I am sure that would be a disaster. Spray mount? Or is there something else to stick large sheets of thin paper accurately to the baseboard?

 

I use spray mount to fix templates to the board.

 

 

[Mark Forrest]

Another +1 for spray mount, it avoids stretch of the templates that you can get with a water based PVA.  Best used in a well ventilated work area, obviously!

[ikcdab]

Thanks for the replies. Spray mount it is then. 

Here is a gratuitous shot of my new shed and the embryonic layout in place. 

[hayfield]

I used spray mount on a layout and after a couple of years it started to unstick

 

Its far easier to build turnouts and crossings singly or in formations siting at a work bench, especially as you can turn it through 360 degrees, I use the rear of offcuts from the composite flooring, which if needed can be clipped together to either make them longer and or wider

 

I stick the template down with masking tape, then cover the template with tracing decent quality paper, again held down by masking tape, then fit two rows of very thin (2 to 3 mm) strips of double sided tape along the tinbers edges which hold the timbers in place, when finished the masking tape can be removed, prior to fitting in place just floof the tape with white spirit and it peals off very easily

[Izzy]

Another method that might be worth considering/adapting is that used by Peter Denny. He used to build the individual track sections onto sub-boards (thin ply I think) and then lay them down just filling in the gaps with ballast afterwards. It also made it easier to add ballast shoulders or cess etc. I do now stick my track sections down via d/s tape, but straight onto the cork base. Did try  building onto permanent paper templates once, but found they disintergrated after a while and the track started lifting up in places. This was despite the ballast being laid using PVA which I had thought would have soaked throught the paper fibres and glued it all together.

 

Izzy

[Gordon A]

I have found that a lot depends on what system you are using to build your point and crossing work.

 

Copperclad with soldered rail. You can safely build away from the location without any distortion.

An idea I picked up from the 2mm boys  is to stick your sleepers to the template using a silver Prikstick.

Stick the template to a piece of white melamine (shelving)This glue is water soluble, so when finished put under the shower, soak and remove from template.

 

Using plastic or wooden sleepers with individual chairs I always build in situ.

As the chairs are not stuck to the rail, if you try using the method above the sleepers do not remain in situ relevant to each other.

 

Gordon A

[hayfield]

4 minutes ago, Gordon A said:

I have found that a lot depends on what system you are using to build your point and crossing work.

 

Copperclad with soldered rail. You can safely build away from the location without any distortion.

An idea I picked up from the 2mm boys  is to stick your sleepers to the template using a silver Prikstick.

Stick the template to a piece of white melamine (shelving)This glue is water soluble, so when finished put under the shower, soak and remove from template.

 

Using plastic or wooden sleepers with individual chairs I always build in situ.

As the chairs are not stuck to the rail, if you try using the method above the sleepers do not remain in situ relevant to each other.

 

Gordon A

 

Gordon

 

To overcome the above mentioned issue which only affects the first few timbers (usually 8) there are a couple of things you can do, the slide chairs are the main issue, I superglue them to the rail, though using solvent will give a temporary bond, or run 2 thin strips of plasticard under the timbers belos the rail, easy and simple solution and far easier than trying to build insitu. Rails with 4 or more chairs stay put unless you are very ham fisted, especially if you use the tracing paper method which gives added protection until you are ready to lay the unit

 

At shows I have had customers at the C&L stand handle units and not one casualty to date with those on plastic timbers, with ply just be a bit careful and there will be no issues