Rustons Sidings.

[sb67]

Ok, Ta Al, I'm learning stuff, I know nothing about bridges or how to build 'em 

[chuffinghell]

1 minute ago, sb67 said:

Ok, Ta Al, I'm learning stuff, I know nothing about bridges or how to build 'em 

 

Me too, although I know nowt about railways or how to build 'em either 

[sb67]

 

 

I've been getting on with the bridge, sort of! Following on from my question about bridge abutments, with the abutments parallel to each other and the bridge all in line should the internal walls follow suit as below, this means the opening will be pretty wide.

 

 

Or, as below with a smaller bridge opening and the internal walls parallel with the track

 

 

Just wondered generally what a prototype would be like or could be either one depending on the builders?

 

[chuffinghell]

I imagine the walls would run parallel with the track but I'm just going by what looks better aesthetically 

 

So basically my answer is as much use as an ashtray on a motorbike

[Alister_G]

It would be built as a skew bridge, with the piers parallel with the track.

 

 

Al.

[47137]

 

Steve,

 

You might get some inspiration from the bridges on the former Burry Port and Gwendraeth Valley railway. These had a very tight clearance, and the class 03 locos had cut-down cabs. The tighter the clearances, the better you will mask the fiddle yard. The abutments will go parallel to the sides of the railway, to make the span as short as possible.

 

- Richard.

 

 

 

[sb67]

Thanks guys, I thought that might be the case but I wasn't sure.

 

I did a search on the Burry Port and Gwendraeth Valley railway and found this fantastic picture.

 

 

Courtesy of 

http://www.2d53.co.uk/South Wales/BPGV 2.htm

 

[d&h]

2 hours ago, 47137 said:

 

Steve,

 

You might get some inspiration from the bridges on the former Burry Port and Gwendraeth Valley railway. These had a very tight clearance, and the class 03 locos had cut-down cabs. The tighter the clearances, the better you will mask the fiddle yard. The abutments will go parallel to the sides of the railway, to make the span as short as possible.

 

- Richard.

 

 

 

Ditto the Canterbury to Whitstable line where the cabs of Wainwright's R1's were also cut down

[sb67]

The state of play so far, I'm running out of stone sheet, hope I can get to the shop before they shut early tomorrow!

 

 

 

[sb67]

Finally used all my sheets up! Got to cover all the joins etc and put the wings on. Off to the model shop tomorrow!  

 

[sb67]

Another bridge related question, can anyone give me some advice on how to add capping to the top of the wall, I've got some wills stuff but it's half round and think it's meant for roofing?

 

Many thanks.

Edited December 23, 2019 by sb67

[Captain Kernow]

6 minutes ago, sb67 said:

Another bridge related question, can anyone give me some advice on how to add capping to the top of the wall, I've got some wills stuff but it's half round and think it's meant for roofing?

 

Many thanks.

Evergreen 'rectangular' strip - you can file it to a more 'capping stone' type of shape once it's glued on top of the parapets and you could then score mortar joins in it prior to painting.

 

[Acklam]

6 hours ago, sb67 said:

Thanks guys, I thought that might be the case but I wasn't sure.

 

I did a search on the Burry Port and Gwendraeth Valley railway and found this fantastic picture.

 

 

Courtesy of 

http://www.2d53.co.uk/South Wales/BPGV 2.htm

 

What a great page it is, loved the double class 03s with the coal wagons.

[Alister_G]

2 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

Evergreen 'rectangular' strip - you can file it to a more 'capping stone' type of shape once it's glued on top of the parapets and you could then score mortar joins in it prior to painting.

 

 

Or you could just cut a strip of the correct width off a sheet of 80thou styrene, then divide it into capping stone lengths before sticking them on with a slight gap. Evergreen is quite expensive compared to plain styrene sheets.

 

 

 

Al.

[sb67]

Thanks Guys,

Al - been looking at that bridge on Grindleford, some inspiring work there. I will make my own capping stones using strip or sheet, whatever they've got in the shop later.

[Captain Kernow]

10 hours ago, Alister_G said:

 

Or you could just cut a strip of the correct width off a sheet of 80thou styrene, then divide it into capping stone lengths before sticking them on with a slight gap. Evergreen is quite expensive compared to plain styrene sheets.

 

 

 

Al.

Quite right - I've even done that myself!

 

[sb67]

Hope everyone's had a good Christmas and got some railway goodies, I got a few books and an Oxford Die cast JCB amongst other stuff Back to the bridge now. 

 

 

 

My god photo's can be cruel! Made the capping from plasticard, hopefully with a bit of fettling, painting and weathering I can make it look ok, at least from a distance.

 

[chuffinghell]

Looks great, top job Steve

[Alister_G]

Yep, nice job mate.

 

Al.

[sb67]

Bridge nearly done, just the side walls to add. Time to think about painting it, I'm not sure what colour dressed stone and the mortar colour should be and whether to undercoat it first.

Any advice gladly received.

Thanks.

 

[Alister_G]

Heyup Steve, I know this isn't based on any particular prototype, but have you thought whereabouts you are thinking it would be, as that might influence the colours of the stone used.

 

All my layouts are of locations around the Peak District, and therefore I tend to model millstone grit for large structures, which has a distinctive colour, but if you're modelling darn sarf that probably wouldn't be correct.

 

I would give it an undercoat first, whatever you do, just to tie it all together and give you a base to work from.

 

Al.

[Andrew Cockburn]

The bridge is looking good/effective, nice to see you solved your little problem with the capping stones. Me, whenever I've constructed bridges such as this for my layouts, I've also used the same method you employed, while another alternative I've found effective, is to use a suitable length/thickness of balsa strip, divided up appropriately, then painted using suitable colours. But either way, I've found both make for a realistic appearance ....

[Andrew Cockburn]

And re the painting of the bridge, can I suggest the following method. Whenever I've previously made structures such as this, I've "primed" the surfaces/given them an undercoat, for this I've tended to use Matt Grey, either from a tin or spray can. I then add a "base colour", for stonework, usually a matt brown or a different shade of matt grey, then when this is dry, I pick out individual stones with different shades of matt brown/grey, before adding weathering in the form of  moss, weeds, water "runs" etc., this particularly applies to coping stones, which appear to be more exposed to "the elements". Hope this helps ....

[sb67]

3 hours ago, Alister_G said:

Heyup Steve, I know this isn't based on any particular prototype, but have you thought whereabouts you are thinking it would be, as that might influence the colours of the stone used.

 

All my layouts are of locations around the Peak District, and therefore I tend to model millstone grit for large structures, which has a distinctive colour, but if you're modelling darn sarf that probably wouldn't be correct.

 

I would give it an undercoat first, whatever you do, just to tie it all together and give you a base to work from.

 

Al.

 

 

Thanks Al, I will give it an undercoat with a rattle can before I start. The layout would loosely be in the south so I guess that would influence the colour. 

[sb67]

1 hour ago, Andrew Cockburn said:

And re the painting of the bridge, can I suggest the following method. Whenever I've previously made structures such as this, I've "primed" the surfaces/given them an undercoat, for this I've tended to use Matt Grey, either from a tin or spray can. I then add a "base colour", for stonework, usually a matt brown or a different shade of matt grey, then when this is dry, I pick out individual stones with different shades of matt brown/grey, before adding weathering in the form of  moss, weeds, water "runs" etc., this particularly applies to coping stones, which appear to be more exposed to "the elements". Hope this helps ....

 

What colour would you use for the mortar?