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Now you've gone and done it.

 

Just when I thought I could step away from the wagon obsession, you go and do this.

 

Like the idea.  This route hadn't occurred to me, mind you neither had a diag 107 troubled me  for several years till now. I did look at grafting two 108s together but it just didn't look right..

 

Have you done anything to the end door or is it just the way the light hits the model?

 

Now where is that book on wagons.

 

Andy

Edited by SM42
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10 minutes ago, SM42 said:

Now you've gone and done it.

 

Just when I thought I could step away from the wagon obsession, you go and do this.

 

Like the idea.  This route hadn't occurred to me, mind you neither had a diag 107 troubled me  for several years till now. I did look at grafting two 108s together but it just didn't look right..

 

Have you done anything to the end door or is it just the way the light hits the model?

 

Now where is that book on wagons.

 

Andy

 

Just the way the light hits it in the first picture, the only thing that was done to the end door was cutting off the thin top and replacing it with a thicker horizontal 'welded' top. 

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I thought so but couldn't be sure.

 

Reaching for my copy of Gamble's Opens and Hoppers, I opened at the page marked with an old instruction sheet and what should be there? A diag 107. Spooky eh?

 

I think the 119 on the opposite page was my reason for marking the page in the first place.

 

Looking at the picture though,  you could get away with an unmodified door I think.

 

Nice work, Nice rake of wagons,.

 

Now where did I leave my mojo?

 

Andy

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Chivers MDV have top doors whereas these don't. Apart from modifying that (and the removal of the vacuum brake gear) the Chivers models would be fine.

 

I have two MDV built and one more in the packet. Such a shame that they are no longer available,

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1 hour ago, Flood said:

Chivers MDV have top doors whereas these don't. Apart from modifying that (and the removal of the vacuum brake gear) the Chivers models would be fine.

 

I have two MDV built and one more in the packet. Such a shame that they are no longer available,

 

I bought two about a year ago

 

Aghh closed in August, if I had known I would have got a couple more.

 

Looks like I will have to mod some Aifix components and cast some.

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I've done abouut 20 MDOs using modified Chivers' bodies. Rather than hack-up their underframes, and try to get rid  of the SAB lever, I used the relevant Parkside  chassis. I also fitted a couple with ex-LNER 21t hopper underframes; some of the rebuilt wagons used these  chassis. The 'spare' underfames can find use under scratch-built stock, such as Coil A and B, and 21t Shockhoods.

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 My only reservation about the Chivers diag 119 conversion is that they are like gold dust now ( I didn't get hold of many when they were available) and it seems a shame to waste a perfectly good kit to make a diag 107 now,

Converting something to replace the Chivers kit would be a lot  more work.  

 

The OP has shown an easy route to let us have our 119s as Chivers intended as I think the Parkside kit may be around for a little longer. 

 

MJI,  I take it you have built your Chivers kits so taking a  mould is not possible. .

 

Andy

 

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2 hours ago, SM42 said:

 My only reservation about the Chivers diag 119 conversion is that they are like gold dust now ( I didn't get hold of many when they were available) and it seems a shame to waste a perfectly good kit to make a diag 107 now,

Converting something to replace the Chivers kit would be a lot  more work.  

 

The OP has shown an easy route to let us have our 119s as Chivers intended as I think the Parkside kit may be around for a little longer. 

 

MJI,  I take it you have built your Chivers kits so taking a  mould is not possible. .

 

Andy

 

 

Just awaiting more models to make it worth spraying bauxite

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Appreciate the kind comments!

 

I should probably clarify as my Dia 1/107 title is a bit misleading. The models I have produced are supposed to represent the early 1970's rebuilds of earlier Dia 1/107 and 1/110 wagons using the existing 1/110 kit available from Parkside.

 

As Southernman46 says, you can also use the Parkside PC32 kit as a basis. I did this to represent one of the as built welded Dia 1/107's. For this I used the side doors and end door from a spare Airfix 16t mineral kit. I find this method best represents the original welded 1/107's as the stanchions match the original BR build. 

 

For the method I have described in this thread, the plasticard is rectangular in cross section, and is a pretty good match for the simple stanchions used on the early 1970's rebuilds. 

 

Paul Bartlett's site is invaluable as always.

 

For as built welded (1/107) examples, I would opt for either butchering a 1977 rebuild (Parkside PC32) or cutting down a 24.5 tonner (PC04).

See: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdo 

 

For the early 1970's rebuilds, you are probably best either scratch building the bodies or adopting my approach as described above.

See: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdorebuiltrenumber

 

Cameron

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Here’s my attempt at a replated  Dia 1/107 on the left and an early 1970s rebuild on the right. Both made using Parkside kits with additional doors from Dapol bodies (because they were very cheap), and brass brake levers.

 

Brian.

F49EBD5C-1555-4F2B-91C8-59F60301E947.jpeg

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On 14/01/2020 at 19:52, Mophead45143 said:

Appreciate the kind comments!

 

I should probably clarify as my Dia 1/107 title is a bit misleading. The models I have produced are supposed to represent the early 1970's rebuilds of earlier Dia 1/107 and 1/110 wagons using the existing 1/110 kit available from Parkside.

 

As Southernman46 says, you can also use the Parkside PC32 kit as a basis. I did this to represent one of the as built welded Dia 1/107's. For this I used the side doors and end door from a spare Airfix 16t mineral kit. I find this method best represents the original welded 1/107's as the stanchions match the original BR build. 

 

For the method I have described in this thread, the plasticard is rectangular in cross section, and is a pretty good match for the simple stanchions used on the early 1970's rebuilds. 

 

Paul Bartlett's site is invaluable as always.

 

For as built welded (1/107) examples, I would opt for either butchering a 1977 rebuild (Parkside PC32) or cutting down a 24.5 tonner (PC04).

See: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdo 

 

For the early 1970's rebuilds, you are probably best either scratch building the bodies or adopting my approach as described above.

See: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/mdorebuiltrenumber

 

Cameron

I was part way through the 24.5t cut-down to make an as-built 1/107 option as a try-out for multiple construction when Accurascale announced their 1/107 models. I want three and have ordered a pack.

 

The conversion is definitely practical, though the door-end looks like being a bit of a faff. I'll probably get round to finishing the conversion after the Accurascale ones arrive if I think I can make it stand comparison.

 

Back in the drawer for now as I've lots of other stuff on the go at present.  

 

John

2019.03_Dia.107_L078.JPG

2019.03_Dia.107_L080.JPG

Edited by Dunsignalling
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14 minutes ago, Dunsignalling said:

I was part way through the 24.5t cut-down to make an as-built 1/107 option as a try-out for multiple construction when Accurascale announced their 1/107 models. I want three and have ordered a pack.

 

The conversion is definitely practical, though the door-end looks like being a bit of a faff. I'll probably get round to finishing the conversion after the Accurascale ones arrive if I think I can make it stand comparison.

 

Back in the drawer for now as I've lots of other stuff on the go at present.  

 

John

2019.03_Dia.107_L078.JPG

2019.03_Dia.107_L080.JPG

I would suggest using the bottom of a 16t door and the top of the 21t door. 

 

It worked well for adding a pressed steel door onto a 21t

 

1 hour ago, Peter Eaton said:

 

Gentlemen

Are these the kits you desire

 

https://www.five79.co.uk/RC473/

 

the Gold mine seems open again.

 

Peter

 

Thanks for that tip. 

I have already been mining 

 

 

Andy

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Managed to find my work in progress with the 16t / 21t door combo

 

20210130_202741.jpg.7a73260ef8710f406d8e815fa26b7eaf.jpg

 

Cut  the 16t door below the horizontal door top ledge and the same on the 21t door to make the two parts. 

 

Andy

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