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3 hours ago, DavidCBroad said:

 Has anyone any experience of running the Shapeways gears?    

How do you guys ensure the wheels are "Quartered"  correctly before pressing the wheels on? 

Is there a jig available or is it a question of making one?   I have some ideas for a jig but don't necessarily want to re invent the wheel.

The squared axles ones you just put and its quite hard to get wrong.


The round axles, I learned to do by eyesight and adjustment, typically setting two  pair of wheels at a time for but I think there is a tool out there for doing it.


I just used a cutting mat and setting one crank pointing “on the hour” (vertical)  and lowering the wheel onto the axle at 1/4 past (horizontal), with a piece of handrail wire through the spokes with blu tac of both wheels, to use as a guide / indicator.. if i’m twisting the wire When pressing to the axle.. I’m moving out of true.


The key is to remember your not setting the real thing.. it doesn't need to be industrial strength tight, the right quartering should rotate freely anyway.
I’ll take the motor or gear out of the chassis, so I can insert and test rotate the wheels, with rods connected to one pair at a time... if they don't rotate freely or the rods start locking, swap 1 wheel-set to the other axle.. if it still doesn't rotate, then its the one I didn't swap thats at fault, otherwise its the other wheelset.


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Hi all,

Gazbo Ignore the post I have just deleted. On double checking the 4mt chassis for sale it is part of it's right inner slide bar is missing. This stops the slide bar from falling out and can be quite fragile.

Edited by cypherman
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Posted (edited)

WOW ! didn't mean to start WW3 guys ! sorry.

Anyway - I have Absolutely zero problem repairing  - or remanufacturing axles, in any material I have a modelmaker's / clockmaker's metal lathe. I simply need 6 replacement wheels, and 6 fasteners(or pins. I can do the rest. I simply cannot go with the existing wheels as the thread bores (and the Bachmann Hex Head bolts are all ruined. Also with regard to the missing rod parts / bowed cylinder. Mine are parallel, and complete. I think the bowing seems to have been Lens Barrel distortion in the photograph - due to the way it was taken. There is no issue in that area. as for the missing chassis spacer, I'll just make one. - (PS - just to clarify, this one had been set up, with Bachmann Bolts to front and rear wheelsets, and pins to the central (Driven) set. It appears they'd fitted pins into threaded wheels, then cooperglued them in, then ending up with plain bore wheels, and bolts too big to fit, so either forced them in, or attempted to re-tap them - badly ! All Irrelevant though, should I manage to appropriate a set of  replacement wheels and fixings. It is only sentimental value that caused me to go down the repair route (My main Present from the missus - who was delighted to get it for me, and is as yet unaware of it's present "Duffness"). Plus Money is at an extreme premium - as in £60 quid for a used one - is right out of budget range just now - but that's another story... I'll just keep my eyes peeled.... cheers guys. lots of info there. Don't be falling out on my account though !


Edited by Gazbo
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I have a similar isssue but my fix is going to be Comet chassis with Markit wheels and I will find a way of reusing the motor.

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Hi David

I fitted a Peter's Spares Axle and gear set on a Bachmann Std Class 4 today. I made up a cardboard jig from measuring the axles and wheels, fitted the wheels using a delayed setting epoxy resin: moved the wheel to 3pm by counting the spokes and lining up the 3o'clock mark on the 'jig' with the hole for the screw in the opposite wheel by poking a fine pin through. Not easy but the engine now runs without the Bachmann 'Waddle'. I now have the task of drilling he chassis to put on external pickups and will report back further when this has been done - I have five class 4's to do.


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